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Smallest lift for 38" with AAL inner fenders and fender chop on JLU Rubi.

Upsidwn

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Metalcloak also uses front lower shock relocation brackets that are meant to be paired with the Rocksports. They raise the mounting point by about 1.5". I'll save you all the details that lead up to it, but when I 1st installed this lift I had both upper and lower relocation brackets on the front shocks. I still didn't bottom out the 6-packs, but the droop was insane enough to raise the dual rate springs a couple of inches off the lower perch. I removed the lower brackets and looked into them further, finally realizing that they only get used with the Rocksports. Both brackets also shift the shocks outward to prevent the shock body from hitting the frame at full droop.

In my opinion, a 38 on a wheel with no more than 3.5" of backspace would be needed to fully take advantage of the 6-packs uptravel. I've learned that more articulation requires less backspace to keep the inner tire shoulder out of the liners, and less articulating lifts need more backspace to keep the outer tire shoulder from hitting the outer lip of the fender.

Just curious, what's your current setup and what are your intended uses?
Thanks for the info. My current setup is pretty much all metalcloak. I’ve been piece meaning it together piece by piece, but I have most of the game changer kit on it now (control arms, tracks bars, etc)
I’m running stock rubicon springs and shocks with 2” budget boost daystar spacers right now, with their shock extensions on the stock rubi shocks.

I’m trying to decide between coilovers or metalcloak springs/6packs right now. I figure it’s pointless going with metalcloak springs right now if I’m going to coilovers so trying to just be one and done.

The main pro to the 6packs for me is the extra travel, which is only 2.7” more travel than the rocksports. So I’m trying to figure out how much travel is wasted when properly bumped for 37/38’s with chopped rubi fenders.
I’m sure you know what I’m getting at here, If you still need to bump 3-4” to kee the tires out of sheet metal even when trimmed, and that equates to 2-3” of unused uptravel, than the usable travel on them isn’t any more than just going with a properly spec’d out king/fox/Holstein/[insert shock of the month here]
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Thanks for the info. My current setup is pretty much all metalcloak. I’ve been piece meaning it together piece by piece, but I have most of the game changer kit on it now (control arms, tracks bars, etc)
I’m running stock rubicon springs and shocks with 2” budget boost daystar spacers right now, with their shock extensions on the stock rubi shocks.

I’m trying to decide between coilovers or metalcloak springs/6packs right now. I figure it’s pointless going with metalcloak springs right now if I’m going to coilovers so trying to just be one and done.

The main pro to the 6packs for me is the extra travel, which is only 2.7” more travel than the rocksports. So I’m trying to figure out how much travel is wasted when properly bumped for 37/38’s with chopped rubi fenders.
I’m sure you know what I’m getting at here, If you still need to bump 3-4” to kee the tires out of sheet metal even when trimmed, and that equates to 2-3” of unused uptravel, than the usable travel on them isn’t any more than just going with a properly spec’d out king/fox/Holstein/[insert shock of the month here]
Oh yeah, I know exactly where you're going here. Your 3.5" of backspace will allow you to use less bumpstop spacers to get more uptravel without hitting the liners, than my 4.5" backspacing allows me.

The one piece of info I have on coilovers is that they prefer being on a vehicle that stays consistent with weight. Conventional coil and shock setups tend to be more forgiving towards varying weights.

I've seen some Jeeps that had coilovers in the front only, because they sometimes wheel loaded and other times unloaded depending on the situation, and they don't want the hassle of constantly adjusting ride height to preserve steering and suspension characteristics.
 

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Thanks for the info. My current setup is pretty much all metalcloak. I’ve been piece meaning it together piece by piece, but I have most of the game changer kit on it now (control arms, tracks bars, etc)
I’m running stock rubicon springs and shocks with 2” budget boost daystar spacers right now, with their shock extensions on the stock rubi shocks.

I’m trying to decide between coilovers or metalcloak springs/6packs right now. I figure it’s pointless going with metalcloak springs right now if I’m going to coilovers so trying to just be one and done.

The main pro to the 6packs for me is the extra travel, which is only 2.7” more travel than the rocksports. So I’m trying to figure out how much travel is wasted when properly bumped for 37/38’s with chopped rubi fenders.
I’m sure you know what I’m getting at here, If you still need to bump 3-4” to kee the tires out of sheet metal even when trimmed, and that equates to 2-3” of unused uptravel, than the usable travel on them isn’t any more than just going with a properly spec’d out king/fox/Holstein/[insert shock of the month here]
This is why I’m on conventional shocks. I do like the 6 pks but I wanted the adjustability of the DSCs. I’m running the 4.5-6” shocks with 3.5” triple rate springs. So I have a little over 12” of travel with 5” up travel . Almost 13” travel in the rear. It really works out well for me, and I have a ton of articulation.

Didn’t mean to butt in, just wanted to give you another perspective. Here’s obligatory pics…….the ladder is for height reference, truth be told, also for my old ass to get in and out, lol.

Jeep Wrangler JL Smallest lift for 38" with AAL inner fenders and fender chop on JLU Rubi. 941F62BD-0F29-4031-9FFC-4716900BE397
Jeep Wrangler JL Smallest lift for 38" with AAL inner fenders and fender chop on JLU Rubi. E34F38C3-A152-4E71-BC5C-CD3A4C7AB903

Jeep Wrangler JL Smallest lift for 38" with AAL inner fenders and fender chop on JLU Rubi. 49D33599-083D-47C9-B999-9890FDC66946
 

Headbarcode

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This is why I’m on conventional shocks. I do like the 6 pks but I wanted the adjustability of the DSCs. I’m running the 4.5-6” shocks with 3.5” triple rate springs. So I have a little over 12” of travel with 5” up travel . Almost 13” travel in the rear. It really works out well for me, and I have a ton of articulation.

Didn’t mean to butt in, just wanted to give you another perspective. Here’s obligatory pics…….the ladder is for height reference, truth be told, also for my old ass to get in and out, lol.

Jeep Wrangler JL Smallest lift for 38" with AAL inner fenders and fender chop on JLU Rubi. 49D33599-083D-47C9-B999-9890FDC66946
Jeep Wrangler JL Smallest lift for 38" with AAL inner fenders and fender chop on JLU Rubi. 49D33599-083D-47C9-B999-9890FDC66946

Jeep Wrangler JL Smallest lift for 38" with AAL inner fenders and fender chop on JLU Rubi. 49D33599-083D-47C9-B999-9890FDC66946
Simply awesome! Looks easily like 44" of tire lift, and at street pressure?
 
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They're not a high mileage tire, but I knew that going in. Otherwise, I've been quite pleased with them overall. My work schedule and offroading being illegal here gets in the way of more serious off highway use, so the vast majority of my miles are as a daily driver. They are not at all loud at speed and haven't given me any slippage issues on wet or snow covered roads. Since they are a hybrid tire with a rounded side to side tread, they don't produce as much as friction as a flat tread on a similar width. They are also on the lighter side compared to similar size tires. Those last two points equal less impact to fuel economy and wear to steering and suspension components. They do need to be rotated every 5k miles at most. Some do it every 3k, but I like doing it with oil changes. I prematurely screwed these 38's by going way over 5k on my last rotation. I had a medical issue pop up that brought far more pain than when I broke 4 ribs and continued to repeatedly break them during work for the following 20 something months. By the time I got it diagnosed, had surgery, and was fully healed up enough to hump these heavy wheel/tires around, I was just shy of 10k and they were worn very uneven and inconsistent. Reversing rotation caused a bad enough side to side oscillation in the 50-60 mph range, that they had to be replaced.

I did want to try my hands at a set of Mickey Thompson Baja Boss M/T's, but with the current craze with availability, I was looking at a lead time into the beginning of next year. I couldn't risk beating up my steering and suspension components, so I went with what I know and was available. A second set of Pat's, but this time I wanted to try a set of 40x13.5's. Just had them put on yesterday and it instantly went back to butter smooth. This time I won't stretch any rotations and will see if I can break 40k on this set. Had 39k on the 38's. They weren't near balding, but were starting to slip around a bit in wet corners and curves. That means the snow traction was gone. I do emergency snow removal and am always out in the worst of it before the plow trucks are clearing roadways, so running a set of tires to the point of their underwear hanging out is not a thing that I ever do.
Thanks for the tire review. Unfortunately not many 38" options.
 

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Thanks for the tire review. Unfortunately not many 38" options.
Yeah, and same with 39’s. Mickey Thompsons new Baja XS in 38x13.5 had my attention until finding out they were bias ply and directional.
 

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Thanks, yeah, they’re at 30 hot. Is your rear still being held up by the pinch ?
Yeah. :facepalm: Things have been slowing down with work, letting me finally catch up with installing a bunch of stuff. I have to pull up a stool and just spend some time staring at the rear wells to come up with a game plan. The trim is the easy part. It's the modifying of the AAL liners and their mounting plates in a way that doesn't look like shit that is the only hangup.

The front end overhaul worked out great! I just have to readjust the 1/16" total toe-in with the new 40's. I had it spot on with the 38's.
 

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Yeah. :facepalm: Things have been slowing down with work, letting me finally catch up with installing a bunch of stuff. I have to pull up a stool and just spend some time staring at the rear wells to come up with a game plan. The trim is the easy part. It's the modifying of the AAL liners and their mounting plates in a way that doesn't look like shit that is the only hangup.

The front end overhaul worked out great! I just have to readjust the 1/16" total toe-in with the new 40's. I had it spot on with the 38's.
Yeah, copy that, rigs looking great. I was thinking it looks like something is keeping you from full flex.
 

MSparks909

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This is why I’m on conventional shocks. I do like the 6 pks but I wanted the adjustability of the DSCs. I’m running the 4.5-6” shocks with 3.5” triple rate springs. So I have a little over 12” of travel with 5” up travel . Almost 13” travel in the rear. It really works out well for me, and I have a ton of articulation.

Didn’t mean to butt in, just wanted to give you another perspective. Here’s obligatory pics…….the ladder is for height reference, truth be told, also for my old ass to get in and out, lol.

Jeep Wrangler JL Smallest lift for 38" with AAL inner fenders and fender chop on JLU Rubi. 49D33599-083D-47C9-B999-9890FDC66946
Jeep Wrangler JL Smallest lift for 38" with AAL inner fenders and fender chop on JLU Rubi. 49D33599-083D-47C9-B999-9890FDC66946

Jeep Wrangler JL Smallest lift for 38" with AAL inner fenders and fender chop on JLU Rubi. 49D33599-083D-47C9-B999-9890FDC66946
Awesome flex. Any plans to go to 38/39s?
 

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Yeah. :facepalm: Things have been slowing down with work, letting me finally catch up with installing a bunch of stuff. I have to pull up a stool and just spend some time staring at the rear wells to come up with a game plan. The trim is the easy part. It's the modifying of the AAL liners and their mounting plates in a way that doesn't look like shit that is the only hangup.

The front end overhaul worked out great! I just have to readjust the 1/16" total toe-in with the new 40's. I had it spot on with the 38's.
Did you come up with a solution yet. I've been eyeing the AAL liners but you have me second guessing as I'll eventually be running tons and 40s.
 

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Did you come up with a solution yet. I've been eyeing the AAL liners but you have me second guessing as I'll eventually be running tons and 40s.
I've got a rough game plan, but haven't attacked it yet. Weather dependant, I want to bring it to the shop next weekend because if I hit a big enough dip with enough speed, these 40's are hitting the pinch seam.

Supposedly, Nemesis rear liners are meant to be used with trimmed seams. If I had known better, I would've gone that route. If it wasn't for the voices in my head, I'd get a set of their rears. I just can't have non matching liners, so I'd also get the fronts. Problem is that I really don't want to scrap these AAL liners.

Check out Nemesis. They look to be of similar quality and look nice and clean with subtle branding like AAL. Not obnoxious like dv8 stuff.
 

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@Roky have you trimmed your pinch seams with the Artec inner fenders?
Yep…….excuse Colby photo bombing, 🤣…..
Jeep Wrangler JL Smallest lift for 38" with AAL inner fenders and fender chop on JLU Rubi. 375448AF-30C0-43D4-B8CD-8D727CCF7888


I have to work on them a little more now with the 3 link rear, I’m freed up a bIt more.

Jeep Wrangler JL Smallest lift for 38" with AAL inner fenders and fender chop on JLU Rubi. A7C21CE5-5778-4F74-B11C-8E157CFE19C2
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