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Skid Plates for 2-door 2.0?

J0E

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blnewt

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Just ask @cosine he knows!
I have a suggestion. No matter what you install, make sure you put something like anti seize on all of the fastener threads. The amount of times a customer comes in with skid plates and it takes me an hour of extra time just to drill/cut out the rusted/seized fasteners, becomes a common affair. We even have customers come in and can't remove their own skid plates due to this. Also, try to avoid any allen head type fasteners. Might look cool new, but can be a real pain down the road.

Also, whatever you buy, think about above and when doing oil changes. Some allow you to change the oil and filter but then spend 10 minutes cleaning the plate because it fills up with oil. Last thing a customer wants to see is remaining oil dripping out in various locations.
Great post!
I made my own skids and allen heads w/ the wide tapered washers were the best DIY option for my application, and yeah, I made a large oil change door for no drip oil changes and easy rear main seal plug observation. I use loctite blue on the threads just as a precaution for getting loose over time when beating on the trails. I didn't have the plates powdercoated so I will have to remove them probably once a year to remove any rust buildup and repaint, or just bite the bullet and send them to the powdercoat booth. At any rate, as much as I'd like to use antiseize IMO having them staying secure is more of a concern of mine. I suppose I could use antiseize and just torque them down a bit more and check the bolts every 6 months or so. Thoughts on this??

Also FWIW all the fasteners and nuts (which are serrated flange nuts) are Stainless Steel. I did remove 4 at the oil door recently and they didn't put up much of a fight, so maybe with regular checkups they won't create a removal nightmare. And we also don't run our Jeep on salty roads or live in a rustbelt type climate.
 

J0E

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so maybe with regular checkups they won't create a removal nightmare. And we also don't run our Jeep on salty roads or live in a rustbelt type climate.
That's what I'm planning. Check at 6 months, if no problem, check 12 months later. I'm guess in non-salted areas once a year should work.

Why not use torx fasteners?
 

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blnewt

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That's what I'm planning. Check at 6 months, if no problem, check 12 months later. I'm guess in non-salted areas once a year should work.

Why not use torx fasteners?
The jl uses unicorn fasteners m12x1.50 thread. I was lucky to find what I did and they were priced accordingly.
 
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At Risk Ute

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Should have weighed the deleted front crossmember to see how much net weight the ASFIR skid adds.

Crossmember felt like it weighed as much as the skid’s two steel support brackets.

Jeep Wrangler JL Skid Plates for 2-door 2.0? C1B79053-580C-452C-8D18-B3DA25E4CDC1
 

rubiRI77

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I went with the TNT customs aluminum skid on my 2021 2.0 Rubicon.

Nice piece. However..... I am pretty sure they made their brackets on a JL that was lifted. On mine with no lift the axle was hitting the bracket on even small bumps! I tried every which way possible, but no go (their instructions were horrible and do not label their pieces left/right, or top/bottom)

I finally ended up making my own bracket out of round bar stock for the drivers side. (the passenger side was fine). I am an amateur blacksmith, so it was actually an interesting little project/exercise, but still I should not have to do that.

Bottom line, if you are lifted 2-3 inches I think their skid will work, otherwise look somewhere else. It is a very nice skid plate though and has taken some hard hits with zero movement.
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