Size lift kit? JLU Sahara

[JtwJL]

Hi guys,

So my JLU Sahara should be in soon so i'm gonna start ordering some parts, one of the big things I can't make a decision on is a lift kit - I want to do a full suspension lift kit - at first i'm going to be running 35s and going to 37s in the future and I don't want to have to change the lift kit when I do so, what size/brand do you guys recommend?

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[$uicide$hift]

I recommend you cancel the order and buy a Rubicon if you want to run 37's. Will be cheaper in the long run as the Rubicon 4.10 gears are going to handle 37's much much better than the Sahara 3.45's.

 

[JtwJL]

I recommend you cancel the order and buy a Rubicon if you want to run 37's. Will be cheaper in the long run as the Rubicon 4.10 gears are going to handle 37's much much better than the Sahara 3.45's.

That's literally everyone's response to anyone who doesn't have a Rubicon, thanks for the reply but it's not what I asked for.

 

[$uicide$hift]

You asked for people's opinion and that is what I provided. Do some research on the effects of the lift required to fit those tires properly while not causing other major issues due to the change you are making. After this do some research on what that additional rotational weight will do to the drive train / steering components as well as the loss of power, ride comfort, handling, and noise. After this you can start to research the gear ratio and the cost of upgrading those while understanding the difference in the axles between the two. Once you figure the cost of doing this properly look at the difference in price between the models.

In my opinion the Sahara is a bad choice to start with if your plan is to put on 37's and even more so if doing it more for the look. If you don't want an opinion then don't create a post asking what people think. I am giving you honest advice based off of a lot of research into these types of modifications.

I could just tell you to go for X lift with X tires and enjoy the ride allowing you to make a huge mistake that will most likely make you hate the Jeep you bought as it will not drive or ride the same only putting on a lift and tires.

Also I did not buy a Rubicon. I bought a Sahara as this is my daily driver and only vehicle. Had I wanted to put 37's on a Jeep I would have gone Rubicon as it is a much better platform to start with for this change.

 

[kogar]

Short Version:
JLUS: 35s and under
JLUR: 33s and up.

As a JLUS owner who has been modifying his for wheeling, I generally agree with $uicide$hift's statement. I've been spending time with my "Jeep guy" (he runs a VERY good Jeep repair/mod business here in Austin) and I think the general consensus is that pushing your Sahara past 35s pretty much opens a lot of cascading issues with regards to suspension, gearing, etc. I think it's a good guideline that you should keep JLUS modifications to 35s. Once you go past that, you're going to have to break the piggy bank wide open.

I fully understand that "get a Rubi" isn't a useful answer, but I hope you can appreciate that the delta from 35s to 37's for a JLUS is several thousand dollars, outside of tire expense. So long as you're good for that, then you can happily embrace the damage to your pocketbook for the new suspension and re-gearing. As for me, I am saving those thousands of $$ for a downpayment on a 2019 Rubi

 

[JtwJL]

Short Version:
JLUS: 35s and under
JLUR: 33s and up.

As a JLUS owner who has been modifying his for wheeling, I generally agree with $uicide$hift's statement. I've been spending time with my "Jeep guy" (he runs a VERY good Jeep repair/mod business here in Austin) and I think the general consensus is that pushing your Sahara past 35s pretty much opens a lot of cascading issues with regards to suspension, gearing, etc. I think it's a good guideline that you should keep JLUS modifications to 35s. Once you go past that, you're going to have to break the piggy bank wide open.

I fully understand that "get a Rubi" isn't a useful answer, but I hope you can appreciate that the delta from 35s to 37's for a JLUS is several thousand dollars, outside of tire expense. So long as you're good for that, then you can happily embrace the damage to your pocketbook for the new suspension and re-gearing. As for me, I am saving those thousands of $$ for a downpayment on a 2019 Rubi

I also agree with what he was saying, just it wasn't the answer I was looking for... But yes i'm in the same boat as what youre doing possibly... Its the reason I'm going with 35s first, its just if I ever did decide to go with 37s and spend the money for it I would rather be able to not have to switch the lift kit for a new one.

Thanks!

 

[MacBigButt]

I also agree with what he was saying, just it wasn't the answer I was looking for... But yes i'm in the same boat as what youre doing possibly... Its the reason I'm going with 35s first, its just if I ever did decide to go with 37s and spend the money for it I would rather be able to not have to switch the lift kit for a new one.

Thanks!

I don't have an answer but from my reading I would say 2.5" on a Sahara for 35" tires, 3" or more to go to 37". Or if you put on the Mopar Hi-top fenders you can go to 37". That's assuming a 11.5" wide tire.

Differential gearing is pretty simple to solve and the gears are already hitting the market. I can attest to the stock Sahara handling 34" tires without a problem and the tires clear except at extremes with -12 offset. I didn't think I would test the extremes as much as I am so I am in the process of getting a 2.5" lift.

Others are running 34" on Sahara without a lift with the right wheel offset, the magic number seems to be +12.

The comments about the need to go to a Rubi aren't based on real experience which none of us will have for awhile yet. Remains to be seen how durable the new Advantek axles are.

The other complication is the sway bar disconnect and 1/2" wider axles. With the sway bar disconnected the Rubi driveline can be under more stress than the Sahara, assuming sway bar is not unbolted.

And yet further complications are CV joints on front axle with Selectrac and with LSD you have the M220 axle in the back. I have no idea how that will affect durability.

One final comment, if you get a higher end lift kit, i.e. one with adjustable control arms, its pretty easy to upgrade from 2.5" to even a 4" kit. It's just a spring swap basically.

From Rock Krawler on their 2.5" kit:

Tire Fitment:
Sport and Sahara with Full OEM Fenders
35” Tall Tires (2” Bump Stop Height Recommended)
Sport and Sahara with Trimmed or High Lined OEM Fenders
37” Tall Tires (3” Bump Stop Height Recommended)
Rubicon with Full OEM Fenders
37” Tall Tires (2” Bump Stop Height Recommended)
Rubicon with Trimmed or High Lined OEM Fenders
38” Tall Tires (Up to 40” Tall Tires for Ultra Low COG Stance) (3” Bump Stop Height Recommended)
Wheel Fitment:
Sport and Sahara Models
35” Tall Tires - Recommend 4.5” of Back Spacing
37” Tall Tires - Recommend 3.5” of Back Spacing
Rubicon Fitment Models
37” Tall Tires – Recommend 4.5” of Back Spacing
38”/40” Tall Tires – Recommend 3.5” of Back Spacing
Shock Notes:
Generic Front Shock Length – 18” Collapsed/ 31” Extended
Generic Rear Shock Length - 20” Collapsed/ 32” Extended

 

[JtwJL]

I don't have an answer but from my reading I would say 2.5" on a Sahara for 35" tires, 3" or more to go to 37". Or if you put on the Mopar Hi-top fenders you can go to 37". That's assuming a 11.5" wide tire.

Differential gearing is pretty simple to solve and the gears are already hitting the market. I can attest to the stock Sahara handling 34" tires without a problem and the tires clear except at extremes with -12 offset. I didn't think I would test the extremes as much as I am so I am in the process of getting a 2.5" lift.

Others are running 34" on Sahara without a lift with the right wheel offset, the magic number seems to be +12.

The comments about the need to go to a Rubi aren't based on real experience which none of us will have for awhile yet. Remains to be seen how durable the new Advantek axles are.

The other complication is the sway bar disconnect and 1/2" wider axles. With the sway bar disconnected the Rubi driveline can be under more stress than the Sahara, assuming sway bar is not unbolted.

And yet further complications are CV joints on front axle with Selectrac and with LSD you have the M220 axle in the back. I have no idea how that will affect durability.

One final comment, if you get a higher end lift kit, i.e. one with adjustable control arms, its pretty easy to upgrade from 2.5" to even a 4" kit. It's just a spring swap basically.

From Rock Krawler on their 2.5" kit:

Tire Fitment:
Sport and Sahara with Full OEM Fenders
35” Tall Tires (2” Bump Stop Height Recommended)
Sport and Sahara with Trimmed or High Lined OEM Fenders
37” Tall Tires (3” Bump Stop Height Recommended)
Rubicon with Full OEM Fenders
37” Tall Tires (2” Bump Stop Height Recommended)
Rubicon with Trimmed or High Lined OEM Fenders
38” Tall Tires (Up to 40” Tall Tires for Ultra Low COG Stance) (3” Bump Stop Height Recommended)
Wheel Fitment:
Sport and Sahara Models
35” Tall Tires - Recommend 4.5” of Back Spacing
37” Tall Tires - Recommend 3.5” of Back Spacing
Rubicon Fitment Models
37” Tall Tires – Recommend 4.5” of Back Spacing
38”/40” Tall Tires – Recommend 3.5” of Back Spacing
Shock Notes:
Generic Front Shock Length – 18” Collapsed/ 31” Extended
Generic Rear Shock Length - 20” Collapsed/ 32” Extended

Thank you for the information!

 

[Deezus]

That's literally everyone's response to anyone who doesn't have a Rubicon, thanks for the reply but it's not what I asked for.

It's the truth though..

 

[JtwJL]

It's the truth though..

Not everyone wants a Rubicon, cheaper or not - I have a Sahara and my question was for the Sahara.

 

[Jimbo1226]

No reason to bring up rubicons in a thread about a Sahara.

Look at a 3.5” kit probably. Maybe something in the Rock Krawler Adventure Series line.

 

[Deezus]

Not everyone wants a Rubicon, cheaper or not - I have a Sahara and my question was for the Sahara.

The front axle on the Rubicon is already very weak, just imagine running 37s on an even weaker axle. Even on the street your taking a chance all I'm saying...

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