Show off your Hutchinson Rock Monsters!!!

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MalteeseJLU

MalteeseJLU

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That's where I was going. Thanks guys, just wanted to make sure I wasn't out of mind haha
I'd personally just do the outer half of the wheel aside from the o-ring face, and not the inner half then you wouldn't have to worry about trying to keep that clean.





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BWRubi

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I'd personally just do the outer half of the wheel aside from the o-ring face, and not the inner half then you wouldn't have to worry about trying to keep that clean.
That outer piece comes off obviously, so that would be done and to your point the inside stays black. I agree, that's the right move. Plus there will be a bit of contrast as well. Thanks again!
 
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MalteeseJLU

MalteeseJLU

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So I have 5 of these in my cart with a decent discount for a wheel that never discounts. Lately I've been contemplating just goin with some Icon Rebounds but the true beadlock just brings me back to them. Someone nudge me or talk me off the ledge lol
 

DOOKEY

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By any chance anyone powder coat a set? I bought them in black, but I'm thinking of powder coating the entire face white, the"ring" outside the bolts white, or inside the "ring" white. I have a white JLUR and am going with a black and white theme. I did body colored Hauk front and rear bumpers as well as fenders, so I'm thinking it would look ok. I included a VERY rough mockup in all white, if anyone has thoughts. Would like opinions as I obviously can't easily go back, lol. Thanks all!
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White on a wheel isn't a great idea. If you go that way be sure to ceramic coat them to help keep them clean. Every wheel will attract a crazy amount of debris. You see it the worst on white.

I've been in the wheel game for 10 years and always tell people that if they choose white wheels there is zero warranty on the coating when it gets filthy cause it always happens.
 

Goin2drt

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So I have 5 of these in my cart with a decent discount for a wheel that never discounts. Lately I've been contemplating just goin with some Icon Rebounds but the true beadlock just brings me back to them. Someone nudge me or talk me off the ledge lol
I own them and have had them since 18. I love them. Here is why. First and foremost they are bulletproof. The other is you won’t see any others so I like not having my Jeep look like everyone else’s. There are about 5 standard wheels everyone seems to buy and these are not one of them so you will look different.

I only have one regret, they are heavy.
 

MarkY3130

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I had these wheels on my shortlist and almost pulled the trigger a few times. I went a different direction for two reasons. First, I'm convinced they have too much backspacing. (for me) Second, I don't like the valve stem placement. It appears too exposed/vulnerable to me. I've seen a valve stem get pulled out by a rock (it wasn't a Hutch Rock Monster) so its something high on my list when looking at wheels. I've never actually seen these wheels in person so I'm just basing that off of internet pictures. I do like a lot about the wheel and that they say DOT approved on them.

I previously had the Mopar beadlock capable wheels (diff sources claim it as 4.5 and 5" BS) and had significant rubbing of the front tires at the location where the sway bar connects to the sway bar end link. It would only happen when a front corner was fully compressed and that tire was turned all the way to the inside. I thought I was going to pop a tire a couple times.

I ended up going with a KMC XD229 Machete Beadlock Wheel with 3.5" of BS and the rubbing has gone away but just barely. I think a 4" BS wheel would have been about perfect. For reference I have the Metalcloak 3.5" Gamechanger and a 12.5" wide 37" tire. If running 13.50 wide tire the 4" BS may still rub.

I'd say if someone is an occasional off-roader that wants a beadlock, than the Rock Monsters are a great choice. If you are someone that goes off-roading a lot, you may need to consider less backspacing depending on how you have your Jeep setup. Metalcloak uses a very long front swaybar end link that puts that rub point up higher than many other setups. Its needed due to the long travel of the springs/suspension to keep your sway bar from flipping (bad).
 

Brian0128

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So I have 5 of these in my cart with a decent discount for a wheel that never discounts. Lately I've been contemplating just goin with some Icon Rebounds but the true beadlock just brings me back to them. Someone nudge me or talk me off the ledge lol
Where did you find them discounted?
 

AJ007

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Can u fit in these wheels 37x13.5R17 Interco M16 SS
Since they are 17x8.5 ??
 

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Got my spare mounted tonight. I’ll see if it holds air overnight. The hardest part was getting the stem through the bracket without bending it. I’m hoping to get the other 4 mounted this weekend. I’m curious to see if I have balance issues. If I do, I’ll try beads when I jump to 37’s. I think I need to put some mesh over the 2 holes in the beadlock if I go with the balancing beads.
 

Some Random Guy

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No major balance issues even without beads. There might be a vibration, or its just road feedback. The TPMS is losing its mind. It keeps sorting itself out though, so far.
I’m also curious who’s running what with BL-107’s or the other ones (106’s?). I’m interested in the M16’s after some more reading. Still defaulting to Irok radials though since I know they’ll work.
 

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