Don't get me wrong, even at 4.8-4.9 degrees caster, the thing still rides/tracks remarkable well, so maybe there is a point of diminishing returns to getting the caster 6.0-6.5 (in my instance).
I've tooled around with the idea of adding some geo brackets, just to see how much of an improvement I can get (with minimal labor/cost, in case I decide to ditch them later).
I am new to this forum so I hope this is an appropriate post. A month or so ago I bought a used JLR with about 2300 miles on it. I noticed last night that the part numbers on my passenger rear shock does not match the part number on my left rear shock. Further the passenger shock appears to have the last six of my VIN on it and the left shock does not. Additionally, the left shock says made in Canada. Also when I looked up rear shocks under my VIN neither number comes up. Boyh shocks are red and both have the Mopar emblem.
Stock springs yes. 12" travel shock, not sure what the eye to eye measurement is but that doesn't matter. The stock coil could easily handle a 14" travel shock without unseating.
I did 1" bumps front and rear to fit the 40s. But my XR didn't have the crazy extended towers like some did. Cycle your suspension, figure what you need.
I've also had no issues with the e disco and longer links.
Gonna be hard to match the Rocksports up front. With the outboard 1.5", they end up dead nuts on compression with 3" of bump.
Rear Elite Series 2.5 Specs:
@WashingtonWetWheeler
I'm running 40" tires & UD60 axles, so I'm already pretty heavily bumped to stop them from eating my Jeep when flexed out fully. I intend to setup hydraulic bumps at the same time as swapping in the FOX shocks. Good call though!
in that case you could consider rears in front. There was a threat somewhere on here about six months ago where a builder did that.
The UD60 doesn't utilize the drop brackets that normally are run with the 3.5 GC. Does that change anything? Should I just put a tape on my current eye to eye measurement at ride height and report back? Would that tell us everything we need to know I'm guessing?
Probably most important is where you are at shock length at bump (if you are going to maintain the bump height with the hydros). Probably hard to get an accurate measurement, but you could do ride height eye to eye, and then get bump pad to the bump tube. Eye to eye - bump travel = max collapsed. The front shocks are pretty vertical so it should be pretty close.
