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Set - 2021 JLURD (3.0l EcoDiesel) build thread

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drick

drick

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Yeah, sounds like it, but price you pay shop time and money .... or garage time (your time) and money to build a jeep that works right. Reason I ask about weight is as I have been working on my JLURD weight continues to raise its head as a concern. Comes about 450lbs heavier than a 3.6 and has all the same brakes, axles, etc. If I had to guess I would bet you are between 5900 and 6300 without passengers / cargo. I have talked to a few suspension companies who just refuse to believe weights like that for a jeep.
totally agree on this point and have made it multiple times here and elsewhere.

more broadly speaking i had this same problem when i built my 2016 JKUR. i am not an overlander, but even back then my build was heavy (steel skids, steel bumpers, steel cage, tools, 37's + beadlocks, etc.). i had to haggle with fox forever to get them to sell the 2.5" as no one was doing that back them due to weight. i also have had to rotate through three sets of coils, and as many iterations of suspension to get that build right(ish).

fast forward to 2022 and overlanders /diesel owners all now face this exact same thing and the manufactures consistently try to sell that there is no difference between gas and diesel builds / needs - which is just flat out wrong. for this build i had to do this again with Evo & King directly before purchasing the kit, then the seller of the kit didn't believe i needed this much suspension. again, we had to engineer the coil lengths and stiffness, and there was no context from the MFR's - it was all trial and error.

this is the upside of working with a local shop - they have been helpful in getting me through all this and for closing the many gaps...
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drick

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Adding a few more left over items as the build process is extending:
  • Going to try and replicate what Brad at Trail Recon did and put two KC Cyclone V2's into the tailgate window hinges as chase lights to complement the larger Rigid chase light (https://www.rigidindustries.com/chase-amber-90122.html)
  • Finally going to get my comms sorted and get a Midland MX575 GMRS installed in the rig, then add hard mount + antennae on the hood as most of the serious folks seems to like this setup
Going to bag the whole Goose Gear thing for now as i can't find anyone here in AZ who wants to do the work and i don't have time to do it myself.

After that, it's wheeling season here and time to get out and use this thing!
Quick update on this - the shop couldn't figure out how to make the Cyclone's work on the tailgate window hinges without creating a wiring mess. Instead they fabbed me a custom bracket that mounts the Rigid chase light at 12 o'clock above / behind the LOD destroyer bumper / spare tire carrier combo. We then mounted the two cyclones at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock on either side of the rigid.
 
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Next phase of the build incoming...

Rig is going in again in 2 weeks, and here is what we are doing this time:

*please make sure you check with PSC before purchasing, there is a LOT of fine print on fitment here
**not sure how much custom work they are going to have to do on this to make the ARB drawer (https://arbusa.com/jeep-wrangler-jl-2018-on/storage-solutions/) system work as i don't want need the setup the way GG does it

I also want to find some sort of lighting for the cargo area so i have some light when cooking or getting stuff ready as we start to camp more. Any feedback here appreciated!
two other things we learned as the shop is grinding through my current build list.

One - i already broke the Curry/Rock Jock CurrectLync steering system. The provided tie rod's was already loose and wobbling - which they found while doing the PSC install. I've never run Curry/RJ steering before, but based on this breaking in 6 months and only 3 runs (conceding one was the Rubicon) - don't think i would recommend this for a diesel and(or) heavy build.

The good news is they found this before sending me home. Better news is that they had a Synergy replacement in stock (what i wanted in the first place, but we couldn't get it due to GSC issues). The "bad" news is that now I'm kinda back to a mongrel build as i now have 1/2 Curry and 1/2 Synergy. Will probably have them replace the other 1/2 when i go back in for next major service.

Two - if you are running any good skid plate system on the JLURD (which likely means MetalCloak as they are the best/only option for a complete system) you are going to need to cut a hole in it to run this pipe. The pipe needs an exhaust port to clear the skid plate and do its job. We ended up cutting the top right edge of the plate out (https://metalcloak.com/media/catalo.../6370-jl-deisel-def-skid-plate-system-1_1.jpg) to create that exhaust port.

The good news is that i shouldn't lose any belly protection from the skid plate. The open question will be is whether the 1-2"(ish) setback between the exhaust tip and the skid plate is going to create a scenario where the exhaust is going to heat up the entire skid plate system and cause me a different problem. I am especially worried about this when the rig does a diesel regen - where i would assume the heat output will be at it's highest.

More pertinent examples of lessons learned with a diesel build.

Hope these help
D
 
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shoot, i keep forgetting gremlins we are fixing this time around. one other nagging problem is the lack of second battery options as stated previously for the JLURD (Gladiator diesel Genesis kit finally dropped, no ETA on JLURD however). Details can be found on my other string on the ways I'm working around this to support my refrigerator usage (https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...-off-cargo-12v-with-goalzero-yeti-500x.95512/) .

What i am going to add next to work around this is to add a second 12v charging option off the primary battery similar to what i have in the JKUR. Specifically i will add this to the cargo area to complement the OEM solution which isn't pushing enough power for my usage - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XJCX66C?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details. I will add this to one of the open upfitter switches so it only runs when the rig is on and protects the rigs primary battery.
 
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two other things we learned as the shop is grinding through my current build list.

One - i already broke the Curry/Rock Jock CurrectLync steering system. The provided tie rod's was already loose and wobbling - which they found while doing the PSC install. I've never run Curry/RJ steering before, but based on this breaking in 6 months and only 3 runs (conceding one was the Rubicon) - don't think i would recommend this for a diesel and(or) heavy build.

The good news is they found this before sending me home. Better news is that they had a Synergy replacement in stock (what i wanted in the first place, but we couldn't get it due to GSC issues). The "bad" news is that now I'm kinda back to a mongrel build as i now have 1/2 Curry and 1/2 Synergy. Will probably have them replace the other 1/2 when i go back in for next major service.

Two - if you are running any good skid plate system on the JLURD (which likely means MetalCloak as they are the best/only option for a complete system) you are going to need to cut a hole in it to run this pipe. The pipe needs an exhaust port to clear the skid plate and do its job. We ended up cutting the top right edge of the plate out (https://metalcloak.com/media/catalo.../6370-jl-deisel-def-skid-plate-system-1_1.jpg) to create that exhaust port.

The good news is that i shouldn't lose any belly protection from the skid plate. The open question will be is whether the 1-2"(ish) setback between the exhaust tip and the skid plate is going to create a scenario where the exhaust is going to heat up the entire skid plate system and cause me a different problem. I am especially worried about this when the rig does a diesel regen - where i would assume the heat output will be at it's highest.

More pertinent examples of lessons learned with a diesel build.

Hope these help
D
Another update on this, shop owner went through the rig before sending me home - with emphasis on testing the PSC hydro / steering. After adding the new Synergy track bar apparently it drove like shit (bump steer). He then went back and looked and when they added the Synergy bar they had flipped the track bar to a high clearance install / to the axle top. Apparently this also was done without adding the accompanying Synergy brackets / brace (i think this one - https://www.synergymfg.com/jeep-jl-front-track-bar-relocation-bracket.html). They now have to go back in and flip it back down to where it was with Curry/RJ originally and add the accompanying Synergy brace. This will extend me another two days, but should get it back to me as intended.

I just hope with all this hacking / drilling / welding on the front axle we haven't added any durability issues...
 

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Got the rig back this week, and we definitely made a LOT of progress.

Finally got all the steering components sorted out. They ended up having to build me a custom bracket for the PSC to go with the new Synergy track bar. Allegedly this will be better and stronger than an off the shelf kit, which might be true from the looks of it.

I now have a 50% Curry/RJ + 50% Synergy steering setup - which i don't like. Probably going to go back in and remove / replace the remaining Curry parts on next trip back to shop as i don't trust it now and Synergy hasn't ever let me down on the JKUR.

We also had to build a custom mount for the rear dust lights but i now have all three which will help quite a bit on those long dusty caravans. I also didn't lose much / any rear visibility, which is great.

Last thought, VERY glad i got the 8 port SPOD and have the 4 port OEM AUX switches. I'm at 7/8 on the SPOD and 2/4 on the OEM upfitters. Already running into this problem on the JKUR as i try to get the two builds closer to consistent.

More to follow
 
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quick update on the PSC status - we don't have it right yet. it steers way better on the street, but when stopped i think we actually went backwards on the steering (which leads me to believe it will be the same in the rocks). spoke to shop and they admitted that there is still a lot of trial and error on these in JL's in general, let alone on the JLURD (which i am the first on as usual for them). we are going to increase the boost by at least 10% and see how it goes next.
 

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I'm getting to the end of my wishlist for this build and am wearing out my wife's patience in hauling me back and forth to the shop... ;)

"final" three items on the build as follows:
After that, it's time to run this thing and see what we can do. Aside from the multitude of local runs in AZ, major trips next year will include snow run in Tahoe, Moab, and hopefully Rubicon again.

That ought to give me a pretty good feel for how I'm doing at this point.

STILL waiting on FCA to figure out how to get me a gas tank to fix mine, but that may never happen at the rate we are going...
 
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I’am interested in the hydro assist for the diesel. Having a hard time turning my 37” tire even on pavement when backing a boat trailer in the driveway, so I know it will be bad offroad with more resistance.

been looking at the full PSC kit, but also the Redneck Ram and Apex with Next venture mount and double sheer tie rod clamp.

I like the new Apex kit that doesn’t require removing the bumper and winch to mount the cooler, which the PSC kit looks to have different mount in the kit in the front of the radiator. Then there is the obviously the price difference of the Redneck ram compared to PSC.
 
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I’am interested in the hydro assist for the diesel. Having a hard time turning my 37” tire even on pavement when backing a boat trailer in the driveway, so I know it will be bad offroad with more resistance.

been looking at the full PSC kit, but also the Redneck Ram and Apex with Next venture mount and double sheer tie rod clamp.

I like the new Apex kit that doesn’t require removing the bumper and winch to mount the cooler, which the PSC kit looks to have different mount in the kit in the front of the radiator. Then there is the obviously the price difference of the Redneck ram compared to PSC.
going back in to shop next week to have the PSC "turned up" - will report back after that.
 
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I'm getting to the end of my wishlist for this build and am wearing out my wife's patience in hauling me back and forth to the shop... ;)

"final" three items on the build as follows:
After that, it's time to run this thing and see what we can do. Aside from the multitude of local runs in AZ, major trips next year will include snow run in Tahoe, Moab, and hopefully Rubicon again.

That ought to give me a pretty good feel for how I'm doing at this point.

STILL waiting on FCA to figure out how to get me a gas tank to fix mine, but that may never happen at the rate we are going...
Supply chain gremlins continue to make things interesting.

GZ never sent the Yetilink, so don't have that yet - allegedly will arrive early next week.
RCV is backlogged until Q1 earliest, so axles won't happen until then.

With so many missing parts, i think we will focus on some cleanup items and fixing a few things i noticed after last trip.

-remove starter battery
-clean up wiring on the spod that wasn't done correctly last time so i can separate the chase lights the way i want to
-add Redline hood assist kit
 
 



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