Seeking regear and locker advice

[Tooth]

Need some help. I have a 2019 Sport and need advice as I’m getting two very different recommendations on regear and lockers from local shops. I’ve built this jeep myself learning as I go so I have some attachment to it. I’ve added Clayton overland lift, bumpers, winch, sliders, katzkin leather (my poor hands), armorlite flooring and many misc accessories to make it my own, so I’d prefer not to trade for rubicon, but its not out of the question.

I have a m220 axle with LSD in rear and m186 in front; 3.45 gears and running 35” tires. I wheel moderate (think blue trails at Windrock) about once a month. Live in NC. It’s not my daily driver, but also not a dedicated toy. Probably will stay with 35s for life of the jeep.

Cost between two shops is negligible.

1st shop: Regear both axles to 4.88 using Dana Spicer gears and add ARB air locker to rear axle. Mount compressor to the top of the engine.

2nd Shop: Regear both axles to 4.56 using Yukon gears and add a ‘new model’ Eaton Elocker to rear. They were against ARB due to ”problems” and said they won’t even install them.

3rd Option: Buy new Rubicon axles with 4.10 gears and ELockers. More $, but only want to do this once. Takeoffs are impossible to find, so would have to go new.

4th Option: I’m in NC. Drop keys off with @chevymitchell and let him decide, but I haven’t asked if he’s interested.

Really appreciate any thoughts.

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[azwjowner]

I like option #4, preferably with 4.88 Dana Spicer gears and an Eaton e-locker. We already know that chevymitchell will do an excellent job, why would you risk some random tech at a shop who may screw it up?

 

[grimmjeeper]

A shop that has problems installing ARB lockers probably isn't a good shop to install your gears. ARB lockers are proven technology that work well if the installer knows what they are doing.

Eaton e-lockers are also good. The air compressor for the ARB does add complexity but then you have a compressor to air up your tires so that balances out.

I would also choose Dana Spicer gears over Yukon.

I would choose #1 but I'd also build up the front axle a little with a truss and stronger axle shafts. And I'd put an ARB or e-locker in it. That combo would hold up just fine on 35s and moderate wheeling. Just leave the locker off until you really need it.

 

[c20040215]

Personally, I would try the Rubicon take off route.
Pros: 1) Stronger ring and pinion and axle shafts. 2) bigger brakes (This depends on how complete the take off you get). 3) better aftermarket parts supports. 4) Reserve the possibility to go 37s

Con: 4.1 gears. You might be luck to get a set of 4.56 takeoff but they are harder to come by. 8AT + 35s+ 4.1 gear isnt ideal but isnt terrible either.

The total cost would probably be a wash.

 

[SparkleTooth]

I'd go with option 1 personally......then you would gain on board air as a result.

 

[Tech Tim]

A shop that has problems installing ARB lockers probably isn't a good shop to install your gears. ARB lockers are proven technology that work well if the installer knows what they are doing.

^^^^This right here^^^^


That front M186 will hold 35s if driven within reason. I've wheeled the Northridge4x4 Yellow JL quite a bit with 37s and we haven't hurt the M186 in the front. Though I am respectful that it is only a Dana 30.

Both the E-Locker and the Air Locker are good units and both can have problems if they are not installed correctly. As stated above, the nice thing about the Air Locker is it forces you to install an air compressor (or air tank) and that is a good thing to have on board.

Our most popular kit is the Grimm under-the-hood kit with the twin compressor:
https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/...-twin-compressor-with-grimm-mounting-brackets
The twin compressor is little overkill just for running one Air Locker, but you'll love it when it comes time to fill up your tires.

The nice thing about going with a set of Rubicon axles is you get the bigger M210 up front, bigger brakes and already has 4.10 gears. Also, both axles are a little wider, giving you a little more clearance for flexing tires. And you'd be ready for a year or three down the road when those 35s just don't seem all that big and 37s are looking good....

Did you say which engine you have and auto or stick trans? Those would dictate axle ratio choice.

 

[chadk77]

I had Rubitrux in Boone NC do my 4.88 regear. They installed Revolution Gears and I'm extremely happy with them. I'm sure they'd have no issue doing anything you've listed. They build some badass Jeeps there.

 

[Tooth]

Thanks for all the replies and gives me comfort on the air locker. I do have the 3.6 with the 8 speed auto, which led the first shop to recommend 4.88 vs 4.56. I’ll call the shop about reinforcing the axle. Rubicon takeoffs are hard to come by these days in the SE. Even Rubitrux has been out of stock for months. @Tech Tim

 

[AcesandEights]

Numero uno.

 

[Tooth]

I would choose #1 but I'd also build up the front axle a little with a truss and stronger axle shafts. And I'd put an ARB or e-locker in it. That combo would hold up just fine on 35s and moderate wheeling. Just leave the locker off until you really need it.

@grimmjeeper Question on adding strength to the m186. I see the Artec trusses and shop 1 said they’d add it for 5 hrs labor. Adding trusses and shafts puts me at 60-70% cost of a new Dana44. I’m guessing new shafts and trusses to m186 may be even stronger than a Dana44. Yes/no?

The other issue is axle length. I can’t just replace the front or my axles will be different lengths. That may make my eyes cross. Maybe it won’t be noticeable on road.

 

[Old Jeeper]

Need some help. I have a 2019 Sport and need advice as I’m getting two very different recommendations on regear and lockers from local shops. I’ve built this jeep myself learning as I go so I have some attachment to it. I’ve added Clayton overland lift, bumpers, winch, sliders, katzkin leather (my poor hands), armorlite flooring and many misc accessories to make it my own, so I’d prefer not to trade for rubicon, but its not out of the question.

I have a m220 axle with LSD in rear and m186 in front; 3.45 gears and running 35” tires. I wheel moderate (think blue trails at Windrock) about once a month. Live in NC. It’s not my daily driver, but also not a dedicated toy. Probably will stay with 35s for life of the jeep.

Cost between two shops is negligible.

1st shop: Regear both axles to 4.88 using Dana Spicer gears and add ARB air locker to rear axle. Mount compressor to the top of the engine.

2nd Shop: Regear both axles to 4.56 using Yukon gears and add a ‘new model’ Eaton Elocker to rear. They were against ARB due to ”problems” and said they won’t even install them.

3rd Option: Buy new Rubicon axles with 4.10 gears and ELockers. More $, but only want to do this once. Takeoffs are impossible to find, so would have to go new.

4th Option: I’m in NC. Drop keys off with @chevymitchell and let him decide, but I haven’t asked if he’s interested.

Really appreciate any thoughts.

Order the 4:88 gears on the Rubicon and you are done. I ordered them on my 2023 JLR and added 35 GY Duratracs after I go it for over all use it the way to go, street, trail, daily driver what ever, great combo.

 

[chevymitchell]

Need some help. I have a 2019 Sport and need advice as I’m getting two very different recommendations on regear and lockers from local shops. I’ve built this jeep myself learning as I go so I have some attachment to it. I’ve added Clayton overland lift, bumpers, winch, sliders, katzkin leather (my poor hands), armorlite flooring and many misc accessories to make it my own, so I’d prefer not to trade for rubicon, but its not out of the question.

I have a m220 axle with LSD in rear and m186 in front; 3.45 gears and running 35” tires. I wheel moderate (think blue trails at Windrock) about once a month. Live in NC. It’s not my daily driver, but also not a dedicated toy. Probably will stay with 35s for life of the jeep.

Cost between two shops is negligible.

1st shop: Regear both axles to 4.88 using Dana Spicer gears and add ARB air locker to rear axle. Mount compressor to the top of the engine.

2nd Shop: Regear both axles to 4.56 using Yukon gears and add a ‘new model’ Eaton Elocker to rear. They were against ARB due to ”problems” and said they won’t even install them.

3rd Option: Buy new Rubicon axles with 4.10 gears and ELockers. More $, but only want to do this once. Takeoffs are impossible to find, so would have to go new.

4th Option: I’m in NC. Drop keys off with @chevymitchell and let him decide, but I haven’t asked if he’s interested.

Really appreciate any thoughts.

Option 1 - I concur with the others.

I run ARB's on Pain Train. I wouldn't hesitate to use air lockers.

If you need someone to do the work, I can certainly do that.

Now... if you could only find a Rubi Transfer Case... Lol.

 

[grimmjeeper]

@grimmjeeper Question on adding strength to the m186. I see the Artec trusses and shop 1 said they’d add it for 5 hrs labor. Adding trusses and shafts puts me at 60-70% cost of a new Dana44. I’m guessing new shafts and trusses to m186 may be even stronger than a Dana44. Yes/no?

The other issue is axle length. I can’t just replace the front or my axles will be different lengths. That may make my eyes cross. Maybe it won’t be noticeable on road.

The housing would be strong. The issue is the ring and pinion. The M186 has a smaller ring and pinion than the M210. It can hold up to 35s well enough. 37s are possible if you're easy on it. The truss helps keep the ring and pinion lined up properly by reducing case flex. And that makes the gears last longer. Adding any of the available heavy duty differential covers are a good idea too.

Side benefit of the truss is that it reinforces the FAD mechanism which is a weak point on the axle whether its the M186 or M210.

I have an Artec truss on my M210 to handle 37s and some serious wheeling on the rocks.

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