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Seeking General Info on Control Arms

DHW

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So sometimes I get bored and start looking for new parts to replace on my Jeep. I have a 2018 Rubi with the 2" Mopar lift and 35's. Only other relevant mods are Teraflex front and Synergy rear track bars, both adjustable and both set to stock lengths.

For my next mod I'm considering replacing the drag link or the control arms. First, any recommendations on doing one of these over the other?

On the control arms, is there any rhyme or reason to replacing only fronts or rears, or only uppers or lowers? Should all 8 be replaced at once? Given my setup, would changing them have any noticable effect? Now that my steering issues have been fixed, I'm quite happy with how it drives, so I'm not really looking to cure anything, just looking for a project since I enjoy the process of modding. Although the cost of buying all 8 at once is a bit more than I'd like to spend.

Maybe I'll leave the Jeep alone for the moment and just buy the Delta Elite I've had my eye on...
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WontonJLUR

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If you don't have any issues, then no real reason to mess with anything. Replacing the drag link as a "mod" isn't really wise financially unless you have seen indications that your drag link is worn out. The stock one is fine until either or both of the joints at the end have excess play.

Replacing the front upper control arms would allow you to adjust your caster, but again, if your Jeep drives fine, no real need.

You mentioned that your adjustable track bars are set to stock length, that kinda defeats the purpose UNLESS your axles are somehow centered, but I doubt it since you have a lift. I could be wrong, but might be worth taking some measurements at each side to see if your axles are centered. If they're not, that's what the adjustable track bars are for.
 
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DHW

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You mentioned that your adjustable track bars are set to stock length, that kinda defeats the purpose UNLESS your axles are somehow centered, but I doubt it since you have a lift. I could be wrong, but might be worth taking some measurements at each side to see if your axles are centered. If they're not, that's what the adjustable track bars are for.
Yea, that's something I've been meaning to do. I measured a while back when I installed them and the axles weren't exactly centered, but weren't that far off. I'm also slightly apprehensive about the "loosen and shake the Jeep" method for centering. Is the best/easiest way?

And I only brought up the drag link because I was discussing my prior steering issues with the shop I use and the guy told me I "should really" replace the drag link. I think it was because the dealer royally f*&%ed the drag link boot the first time I had the steering box replaced.
 

WontonJLUR

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Yea, that's something I've been meaning to do. I measured a while back when I installed them and the axles weren't exactly centered, but weren't that far off. I'm also slightly apprehensive about the "loosen and shake the Jeep" method for centering. Is the best/easiest way?
Kinda depends on how mechanically inclined and also how strong you are. I can remove the track bar and then while laying underneath, push the frame over with my legs until the holes line up. Another method you can use if you have another set of hands is just to have someone pull the Jeep over to the side you need via the front/rear bumper. It doesn't take all that much effort.

if you don't have another set of hands, you can take a ratchet strap to some point on the Jeep's frame or bumper and just slowly use the ratchet to pull the Jeep over until the holes line up.
 
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DHW

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Kinda depends on how mechanically inclined and also how strong you are. I can remove the track bar and then while laying underneath, push the frame over with my legs until the holes line up. Another method you can use if you have another set of hands is just to have someone pull the Jeep over to the side you need via the front/rear bumper. It doesn't take all that much effort.

if you don't have another set of hands, you can take a ratchet strap to some point on the Jeep's frame or bumper and just slowly use the ratchet to pull the Jeep over until the holes line up.
Ok, that brings up another question. When I replaced my diff covers I had to remove the drivers side of the track bar to get to it. When I was reinstalling the track bar, I couldn't get the bolt through because the holes were a bit off. Eventually I was able to muscle it enough to get it through as the holes were off only by a small margin. Would that not be the time to adjust the track bar so the holes aligned perfectly?

And thanks for the response. This is my first Jeep so, while I'd say I am mechanically inclined, this is my first experience modifying suspensions.
 

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WontonJLUR

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Ok, that brings up another question. When I replaced my diff covers I had to remove the drivers side of the track bar to get to it. When I was reinstalling the track bar, I couldn't get the bolt through because the holes were a bit off. Eventually I was able to muscle it enough to get it through as the holes were off only by a small margin. Would that not be the time to adjust the track bar so the holes aligned perfectly?
No, the track bar length needs to be set so that it centers the axles underneath the Jeep. When you remove the track bar from either end, the Jeep may shift, but there's zero guarantee that it shifts to exactly where it needs to be.
 
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DHW

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No, the track bar length needs to be set so that it centers the axles underneath the Jeep. When you remove the track bar from either end, the Jeep may shift, but there's zero guarantee that it shifts to exactly where it needs to be.
Ok, so just undo that side of the track bar, get the axles centered, then just adjust the track bar so it lines up? Same with the rear? I figure it'd be best to do both at once, right?
 

WontonJLUR

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Ok, so just undo that side of the track bar, get the axles centered, then just adjust the track bar so it lines up? Same with the rear? I figure it'd be best to do both at once, right?
Ideally yes, since it's the same procedure.

And yes, it's gonna be a little bit of trial and error. Measure from the a fixed point on the tire to the frame/fender/whatever on the Jeep. Then do the same on the other side. Then you need to lengthen/shorten the track bar until those measurements are the same.

To be clear, you're going to want to adjust the track bar length and then push the Jeep to one side or the other (or have someone else help) and then insert the bolt. The track bar length needs to be based on your measurements. Don't remove the track bar bolt, wait for the Jeep to settle, and then adjust the track bar until it lines up, if that makes sense. Adjust the track bar based on the measurements, and then move the Jeep to get the holes to line it up.
 
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DHW

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Ideally yes, since it's the same procedure.
Don't remove the track bar bolt, wait for the Jeep to settle, and then adjust the track bar until it lines up, if that makes sense. Adjust the track bar based on the measurements, and then move the Jeep to get the holes to line it up.
Yea that makes sense because that's how I was thinking it was done. But now I get what you're saying about the measurements. Thanks again!
 

WontonJLUR

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Yea that makes sense because that's how I was thinking it was done. But now I get what you're saying about the measurements. Thanks again!
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Regarding your original question, based upon just the info you have provided, I would suggest the front lower control arms as your next mod.

I completely agree with what "WhiteJLUS" said regarding properly centering your axles, and not doing the drag link, unless you have an issue.

I would suspect that you have what I would call an opportunity for actual improvement by do a pair of front control arms.

It is well known that the stock Rubicons do not have long enough front lower control arms to get caster where you want it. that is why so many people buy the 1/4" longer lower control arms from the Mopar 2" lift kit to use with STOCK Rubicon suspension. (I speak from experience, as I did those arms with a Rubicon suspension on my JLUS, and it made a world of difference before I did my bigger lift)

If only doing 1 set in front I prefer to start with the lower control arms for 2 reasons:
-lengthening the front lower arms will not only give you back the caster you want for better steering / handling, this will also re-center your axle in the wheel well front to back.
-replacing the lower control arms will replace 4 of the factory bushings, which aren't the most durable. replacing the upper control arms will only replace 2, as 2 of the bushings are pressed in to the axle. (although you could do the johnny joint bushings in the axle if you are up for it)

just my thoughts....
 

WontonJLUR

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If only doing 1 set in front I prefer to start with the lower control arms for 2 reasons:
-lengthening the front lower arms will not only give you back the caster you want for better steering / handling, this will also re-center your axle in the wheel well front to back.
-replacing the lower control arms will replace 4 of the factory bushings, which aren't the most durable. replacing the upper control arms will only replace 2, as 2 of the bushings are pressed in to the axle. (although you could do the johnny joint bushings in the axle if you are up for it)

just my thoughts....
Good points. Either set of front control arms will do the job of allowing adjustable caster. The uppers get more caster adjustment for the same control arm adjustment, but that doesn't really matter all that much.

Another benefit of front lower control arms is that it can correct any spring bowing that you might have since it pushes the axle further forward, like Terminex mentioned.
 

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Yea that makes sense because that's how I was thinking it was done. But now I get what you're saying about the measurements. Thanks again!
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