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Rubicon X only 4-auto Transfer Case?

spinxt

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Is it true that the Rubicon X can only be ordered with the clutch-type transfer case (the one with the 4H-Auto position). I'm going to be in the market in about 9 months when our lease expires on our 21 JL Sport X. I def do NOT want that transfer case!
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Stetson

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Is it true that the Rubicon X can only be ordered with the clutch-type transfer case (the one with the 4H-Auto position). I'm going to be in the market in about 9 months when our lease expires on our 21 JL Sport X. I def do NOT want that transfer case!
Is there a reason you don’t want it? Just curious.

Stetson
 
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spinxt

spinxt

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I've heard of problems with the clutch-type version in the 392. I also plan on keeping this vehicle for a long time. As the clutches wear, you'll never get a true lock. It's just not worth the risk when a simpler, more proven version exists.
 

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Also the 4 auto has rubber CV brackets and the non auto has beefy U-brackets. Both work, but I've heard the auto joints are more prone to catch a stick or rock and cause damage where the bulkier U-joint can tank a hit better.
 

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Can't the tazer make it full time two wheel drive? Cv joints are just as good as u joints. They are actually better in certain situations.
 

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Also the 4 auto has rubber CV brackets and the non auto has beefy U-brackets. Both work, but I've heard the auto joints are more prone to catch a stick or rock and cause damage where the bulkier U-joint can tank a hit better.
I don't think that makes any sense.
 
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spinxt

spinxt

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Can't the tazer make it full time two wheel drive? Cv joints are just as good as u joints. They are actually better in certain situations.
No, it's a completely different transfer case. A TAZER can't change the fact is uses wearable clutch plates (as opposed to gears) to lock the front and rear axles. At at the end of the day, it probably works fine for most people. However those that wheel a lot have experienced some issues with the clutches wearing, slipping, or the unit overheating.

I'd rather just not have to worry about those issues long term. I know with the traditional Rubicon transfer case that if regular fluid changed are performed it will last a LONG time. Who know's how long those clutches will last?!?
 

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Not if you are turning...or have RCVs.
CVs are better if you replace them with a better CV? I would agree. RCV (hopefully) seems to have also addressed how easy it is for a twig to tear the CV boot.
 

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The only potential issues I've heard mentioned on the 4-auto equipped Jeeps is the FAD (front axle disconnect) being a weak point in the front axle. But you can do a FAD delete if you wanted.

I've never heard of anyone really having issues with the CV's. I take my 4xe on some gnarly stuff all the time, you should see how my skid plates look - the CV's are fine and are really not in a place I'd worry about them getting damaged on anything.

The transfer case clutch, I've only heard a handful of issues by 392 owners. But honestly I think if my transfer case clutch went bad I'd just take it as a sign from God that it's time to upgrade to an Atlas.
 

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I haven't, as of yet, heard of any issues with the CV either but it is a theoretical problem. If the boot does get ripped it could be a problem that you don't notice until it is catastrophic. The reality is, u-joints are simpler than CV joints. Now, I prefer CV joints for many, many reasons but it is a trade off that is worth noting.

I have the 4xe X and I am a tad worried about the transfer case as well. The amount of people how have had issues with the clutches is pretty low but not 0. Personally, if I had a tcase failure I would swap it out for an Atlas.
 

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I am personally not worried about the MP3022 or the CV axles on my 392.

Think part of the problem is forgetting to take it out of 4 auto when hitting the dirt which causes the clutches to slip and wear prematurely. As soon as I hit dirt I'll hit 4 hi or low depending on circumstances.

If I break a boot on the CV I'll just replace it. If I break a CV itself, RCVs will go in.

Have two trips planned over the next couple of months, just hope my skids come on time lol.

Good luck with your purchase!
 

JLfromCA

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on Jeeps, if you rip a CV boot you have to replace the whole axle shaft. No such problems with the simple ujoint thats fully serviceable.
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