Rubicon vs sport suspension height?

[blnewt]

I’ll keep looking around. I bought this set since it was looked really clean/new. It has the red shocks so I’m assuming it’s off a willys. Now I’ll probably list this set and hope I can get my money back as a willys set.

You can keep the shocks since they'll work w/ the new springs and just replace them w/ the extra shocks when they wear out Bummer that you got stuck w/ the low # set though

Sponsored

 

[DiabloBlanco]

Sorry if this is a dumb question...2020 Sport S owner here. I see a lot of people replace their Rubi shocks almost immediately and it seems like they sell for pretty inexpensive. I was wondering, is there a reason why, other than people just wanting to change them out? I ask because I think I'd like to replace my stock springs and shocks with something a bit more capable and substantial. Should I look into Rubi or Willy's take-offs or just go straight aftermarket?

 

[Odyssey USA]

Sorry if this is a dumb question...2020 Sport S owner here. I see a lot of people replace their Rubi shocks almost immediately and it seems like they sell for pretty inexpensive. I was wondering, is there a reason why, other than people just wanting to change them out? I ask because I think I'd like to replace my stock springs and shocks with something a bit more capable and substantial. Should I look into Rubi or Willy's take-offs or just go straight aftermarket?

A Rubicon takeoff suspension seems to net around 1.5-2” of lift on a Sport iirc. I guess it depends on if that’s enough lift for you. The price is definitely right.

 

[blnewt]

Sorry if this is a dumb question...2020 Sport S owner here. I see a lot of people replace their Rubi shocks almost immediately and it seems like they sell for pretty inexpensive. I was wondering, is there a reason why, other than people just wanting to change them out? I ask because I think I'd like to replace my stock springs and shocks with something a bit more capable and substantial. Should I look into Rubi or Willy's take-offs or just go straight aftermarket?

Since you have a 4dr you really need to find the tallest springs. Forget the Willys, they only have the longer shocks but the same shorter springs that you currently have. If you can find a set from a 4dr w/ hardtop, tow pkg, steel bumpers then I would say go for it The spring numbers will be in the 60-62 & 90-92 range. Been very happy w/ our Rubi swap on our 2dr but will upgrade the shocks in the next year or so.

 

[Odyssey USA]

Since you have a 4dr you really need to find the tallest springs. Forget the Willys, they only have the longer shocks but the same shorter springs that you currently have. If you can find a set from a 4dr w/ hardtop, tow pkg, steel bumpers then I would say go for it The spring numbers will be in the 60-62 & 90-92 range. Been very happy w/ our Rubi swap on our 2dr but will upgrade the shocks in the next year or so.

Ah, I missed the 4 dr part. I think that’s good for maybe 1-1.5” with those spring numbers.

OP, most often the lower spring number is on the left side. I have seen the same numbers for the front and matching numbers out back too. IE, 62/62. I’ve seen 92/92 as well when running random VIN’s.

 

[CobieDog]

Hi all, I'm getting ready to do this mod on my sport this weekend. I have the Rubicon suspension and the new longer LCAs are arriving today. After reading through the posts one thing is still confusing to me around the torque spec for the LCA. Multiple times people state it is 150LBs but I think the spec is saying 103LBs. What am I missing?

 

[Roky]

Hi all, I'm getting ready to do this mod on my sport this weekend. I have the Rubicon suspension and the new longer LCAs are arriving today. After reading through the posts one thing is still confusing to me around the torque spec for the LCA. Multiple times people state it is 150LBs but I think the spec is saying 103LBs. What am I missing?

The spec sheet is saying 103 plus 50 degrees which means after the click go another 50 degree turn past it. They do that because a bolt will torque differently depending on its condition. Old, new, rusty, lubricated etc.... just torque to 190 ft lbs .

 

[MarkM]

I read something about suspension binding, do you tighten the suspension hardware with weight on wheels to avoid this or while axle is off ground?

Yes, the vehicle must be on the ground and the suspension "loaded" to tighten the bolts.

The reason being the preload on the rubber bushings. The bushings only have so much "flex" on a regular basis. You want the least pre-load on the bushings as possible.

As such, you want to tighten/torque them where they are as close as possible to the position they will usually be in, which is the suspension's most neutral position.

When you reassemble the arms, links, etc. just tighten them enough to prevent "clunking" if you tug back and forth on a control arm. when you lower the vehicle, any movement at mounting points should be the steel sleeve in the bushing actually rotating around the bolt, not the rubber flexing to accommodate that movement.

Tighten them once it is down and settled then go around again and check your work. I even bounce the vehicle once or twice or back it out and back into the garage to make sure it is as close to "flat" as possible.

HTH

 

[MarkM]

Wait a minute, so you guys are saying the sway links and the lower control arms are the same length? If that’s the case on the control arms, how is the alignment corrected between the two? Thought the rubicon control arms were slightly longer.

I have the same question!

I can see Caster affecting steering, but if the control arms are the same length, then the greater axle angle isn't enough to worry about in terms of steering. Correct? A this point, is there also a difference with the pitman arm, seeing the angle is now changed with the difference between the axle and frame.

I can see swaybay links not changing as the angle of the bar will move with the axis of the axle, just as long as the bar rotates properly in the bushings.

I wonder more about U-Joint stress on my Sahara than I do links.

 

[Roky]

I have the same question!

I can see Caster affecting steering, but if the control arms are the same length, then the greater axle angle isn't enough to worry about in terms of steering. Correct? A this point, is there also a difference with the pitman arm, seeing the angle is now changed with the difference between the axle and frame.

I can see swaybay links not changing as the angle of the bar will move with the axis of the axle, just as long as the bar rotates properly in the bushings.

I wonder more about U-Joint stress on my Sahara than I do links.

When you do Rubi swap you have to order some Mopar lift control arms to go with it if you want to increase caster. Swapping arms between trims is useless as they’re all the same.

 

[CobieDog]

The spec sheet is saying 103 plus 50 degrees which means after the click go another 50 degree turn past it. They do that because a bolt will torque differently depending on its condition. Old, new, rusty, lubricated etc.... just torque to 190 ft lbs .

Okay so I am understanding it correctly. Everything is pretty new on my jeep so my plan was to torque to the 103 Plus the 50 degrees.

 

[Roky]

Okay so I am understanding it correctly. Everything is pretty new on my jeep so my plan was to torque to the 103 Plus the 50 degrees.

Yes.........I just torque lcas to 190 ft lbs. It’s just easier to remember and do. I like hearing that click and knowing I’m done. No guess work.

 

[entropy]

I have the same question!

I can see Caster affecting steering, but if the control arms are the same length, then the greater axle angle isn't enough to worry about in terms of steering. Correct? A this point, is there also a difference with the pitman arm, seeing the angle is now changed with the difference between the axle and frame.

I can see swaybay links not changing as the angle of the bar will move with the axis of the axle, just as long as the bar rotates properly in the bushings.

I wonder more about U-Joint stress on my Sahara than I do links.

The rubicon comes from factory with lower caster than the sport. They didnt have longer LCAs on the rubicon probably to save time/money on production.

 

[blnewt]

Yes, the vehicle must be on the ground and the suspension "loaded" to tighten the bolts.

The reason being the preload on the rubber bushings. The bushings only have so much "flex" on a regular basis. You want the least pre-load on the bushings as possible.

As such, you want to tighten/torque them where they are as close as possible to the position they will usually be in, which is the suspension's most neutral position.

When you reassemble the arms, links, etc. just tighten them enough to prevent "clunking" if you tug back and forth on a control arm. when you lower the vehicle, any movement at mounting points should be the steel sleeve in the bushing actually rotating around the bolt, not the rubber flexing to accommodate that movement.

Tighten them once it is down and settled then go around again and check your work. I even bounce the vehicle once or twice or back it out and back into the garage to make sure it is as close to "flat" as possible.

HTH

I had my vehicle on ramps, suspension is still loaded but gives you more room under there to torque those bolts up

 

[hoag4147]

Yes.........I just torque lcas to 190 ft lbs. It’s just easier to remember and do. I like hearing that click and knowing I’m done. No guess work.

@CobieDog

Even the Mopar Lift instruction state what Roky suggest.

Sponsored