Rubicon vs sport suspension height?

[JLBuyer]

Here is how the numbers turned out.
Measured to the center plastic rivet in each fender from the ground. Hold your phone sideways and you should be able to see this.

BONE STOCK-------AFTER RUBI TIRES/WHEELS-----AFTER RUBI Shock/Spring/Tires/wheels

Right rear 36"---------------36-9/16--------------------38-13/16
Right front 36"---------------36-5/8--------------------38-13/16
Left front 36.25-------------37-1/8---------------------39-1/16"
Left rear 36"---------------36-5/8--------------------38-9/16

Keep in mind, nobody has perfect straight edge garage concrete to measure from. When I rinse my garage I have puddles of water everywhere so probably why numbers are a little inconsistent. No lower control arms yet. Ordered Friday and should show up next week.
Drove awesome on the ride home from the shop though.
Haven't done the math yet but wanted to get this out there for those who wanted to see it.

Spring part numbers used.
90/91 rears 60/61 fronts

Sponsored

 

[blnewt]

Here is how the numbers turned out.
Measured to the center plastic rivet in each fender from the ground. Hold your phone sideways and you should be able to see this.

BONE STOCK-------AFTER RUBI TIRES/WHEELS-----AFTER RUBI Shock/Spring/Tires/wheels

Right rear 36"---------------36-9/16--------------------38-13/16
Right front 36"---------------36-5/8--------------------38-13/16
Left front 36.25-------------37-1/8---------------------39-1/16"
Left rear 36"---------------36-5/8--------------------38-9/16

Keep in mind, nobody has perfect straight edge garage concrete to measure from. When I rinse my garage I have puddles of water everywhere so probably why numbers are a little inconsistent. No lower control arms yet. Ordered Friday and should show up next week.
Drove awesome on the ride home from the shop though.
Haven't done the math yet but wanted to get this out there for those who wanted to see it.

Spring part numbers used.
90/91 rears 60/61 fronts

So a bit over 2" in back and a bit under 2" in front, about what I ended up with too, only difference is my rear springs were 59/61 but the same front set. No noticeable rake, which was a bit noticeable prior to the Rubi swap.

 

[JLBuyer]

Ok a recap with photos.
1) first impression, YOU MUST DO THIS MOD!!!!!
2) You can’t possibly get more bang for the buck out of anything else.
3)Rubicon take off parts are CHEAP right now! Get them while you can!
4) This lift is so easy to do anybody can do it. Don’t be afraid, especially if you have help. I did it by myself but I’m used to doing everything alone because I have no friends.
It’s literally a couple jack stands, a rollaway jack and 4 bolts per corner to get this done!
Highly recommend you get on offer up right now and pickup a set of JL rubicon take offs for about $100 bucks. Make sure it’s JL stuff and not JK stuff and verify part numbers here because the parts look similar.

here are the pictures of it parked on the same crack in my driveway , stock, then with only wheels and then with wheels and rubicon springs and shocks.

 

[JLBuyer]

“Nick P” likes your post.

Doh! Busted!!!!

Nick trust me man, I tried to wait for that new Bronco but my god man it was just taking too damn long!!
Say hi to krispy and the fellas for me.

 

[PatrickR]

“Nick P” likes your post.

Doh! Busted!!!!

Nick trust me man, I tried to wait for that new Bronco but my god man it was just taking too damn long!!
Say hi to krispy and the fellas for me.

Haha, I'm glad I'm not the only one who started out waiting on the bronco, only to end up in a JL!

I totally agree with you on this being the best value mod I've done. The performance improvement off road was substantial.

 

[Jeepney18]

Planning on picking up some 59/60 and 90/91's tomorrow. I'm little worried about the 59/60's because I already have an Arb stubby and winch installed. Does anyone already have a setup like that?

 

[JLBuyer]

Planning on picking up some 59/60 and 90/91's tomorrow. I'm little worried about the 59/60's because I already have an Arb stubby and winch installed. Does anyone already have a setup like that?

I bought that setup at first but worried I wouldnt be satisfied so I picked up another set that had the higher rate springs.. I actually still have that setup in my garage. Paid $100 bucks for it, will probably try to sell it. Im not sure what to expect from it. I’d be real curious to see though.

 

[mark203]

So here's my question for everyone with experience with this -
I have a JLU Sport-S in my driveway, and Rubicon take-off shocks and springs in my basement.
What can I expect with this swap?

FRONT SPRINGS:
3657AC --> 3659AC
3658AC --> 3660AC

REAR SPRINGS:
3587AA --> 3590AA
3588AA --> 3591AA

Anything I should consider adding to this setup now to avoid doing the work twice?

 

[JLBuyer]

So here's my question for everyone with experience with this -
I have a JLU Sport-S in my driveway, and Rubicon take-off shocks and springs in my basement.
What can I expect with this swap?

FRONT SPRINGS:
3657AC --> 3659AC
3658AC --> 3660AC

REAR SPRINGS:
3587AA --> 3590AA
3588AA --> 3591AA

Anything I should consider adding to this setup now to avoid doing the work twice?

Ok here’s my “theory.
I’m know that the 59/60 springs are from Unlimiteds. Rubicon unlimiteds are not light by any means so the springs should be fine on your S model.
Here is where “I think” the issue will come into play. Rubicons have higher mount front fenders so the factory does not really need to lift the front end as high to make them look normal. The problem I “think” you might have if you don’t add 1/2” spring spacers with yours is your low front sport fenders will make your Jeep look slightly raked.
those of us with Sports and sport S’s need good solid height in the front to make it look right due to how low our front fenders sit.
From the numbers you posted that are on your sport S currently, I can see that you will be going up three sizes in the rear but only two sizes in the front. Since you already know your current spring sizes, I would try to keep the increase in sizes consistent front and rear or just plan on slapping on a set of those front spacers some guys are using. Quadra tech has a bunch of them.
(See screen shot below)

 

[JLBuyer]

Holy late night groggy beer goggles Batman! Did any of that even make sense?
Moral of the story.. if your going up 3 springs sizes in the rear you should probably go up 3 sizes in the front To keep it level or else buy spacers to compensate.

Your lucky with your stock spring numbers. My stock spring numbers made no sense and ended in like 01AA and 12AA and weirdness like that so I had no idea what to buy.

 

[jmcdtucson]

It’s literally a couple jack stands, a rollaway jack and 4 bolts per corner to get this done!
Highly recommend you get on offer up right now and pickup a set of JL rubicon take offs for about $100 bucks. Make sure it’s JL stuff and not JK stuff and verify part numbers here because the parts look similar.

I'm glad this went easy for you, it looks great.
Just so people don't think it is TOO easy. There are the 4 bolts to replace the shocks. But you also have to loosen the track bar up front and remove the brake line bracket (as I recall). Also disconnect the swaybar links.
And one more step that some people skip: you are supposed to loosen all the control arm bolts and then re-torque them on the ground after any lift. Otherwise the control arm bushings are not in a neutral position and could wear prematurely.
For a newb like me and not being as spry as I once was, this was a BIG job. Note I also replaced the front LCAs and the front track bar while I was in there.
The last step was probably the hardest part. Torquing all those control arm bolts was a PAIN.
Oh, and you may need to center the steering wheel.

 

[JLBuyer]

I'm glad this went easy for you, it looks great.
Just so people don't think it is TOO easy. There are the 4 bolts to replace the shocks. But you also have to loosen the track bar up front and remove the brake line bracket (as I recall). Also disconnect the swaybar links.
And one more step that some people skip: you are supposed to loosen all the control arm bolts and then re-torque them on the ground after any lift. Otherwise the control arm bushings are not in a neutral position and could wear prematurely.
For a newb like me and not being as spry as I once was, this was a BIG job. Note I also replaced the front LCAs and the front track bar while I was in there.
The last step was probably the hardest part. Torquing all those control arm bolts was a PAIN.
Oh, and you may need to center the steering wheel.

Thanks! Really appreciate it. I’m really happy about how it’s turning out.

For me it was only 4 bolts per corner..
Remove and replace shock. 2 bolts.
Detach sway bar link, keep in mind there’s no need to completely remove it, just unhook one side so your axle can hang lower. That’s onebolt.
Take brake line bracket loose. 1 nut.

So technically, It was only 3 bolts and one nut for me.

the only difference is in the rear where you have to remove An additional 3 little screws to takeoff the plastic piece to access the upper shock bolt.

As far as track bar, I did not touch the track bar. I had no issues where I even thought about touching the track bar.
I did not even need spring compressors like I thought I would. About 30 extra seconds to a minute of finageling the passenger side front spring to get it in but that’s about it.

I have not received my lower cotrol arms yet so I did not do those.
I imagine that will only be another two bolts and another removal of the brake line bracket nut and according to some, some serious hang time on the torque wrench.
Im a heavy equipment mechanic so torquing to 150ft pounds shouldn’t be a problem.

 

[jmcdtucson]

Actually, there’s only two bolts on shocks. One upper one lower.

For me it was only 4 bolts.
Remove and replace shock. 2 bolts.
Detach sway bar link, don’t need to remove it, just unhook one side so your axle can hang lower. 1 bolt.
Take brake line bracket loose. 1 nut.
Technically, It was only 3 bolts and one nut for me.

the only difference is in the rear where you have to remove An additional 3 little screws to takeoff the plastic piece to access the upper shock bolt.

As far as track bar, I did not touch the track bar. I had no issues where I even thought about touching the track bar.
I did not even need spring compressors like I thought I would. About 30 extra seconds to a minute of finageling the passenger side front spring to get it in but that’s about it.

I have not received my lower cotrol arms yet so I did not do those.
I imagine that will only be another two bolts and another removal of the brake line bracket nut.

Got it. I'm bad at math that early in the morning.

 

[JLBuyer]

Got it. I'm bad at math that early in the morning.

You are right about the steering wheel though!
I drove it home so focused on checking out the ride and taking all side streets home I didn’t notice it. Yesterday afternoon comes and I get on the freeway for some highway miles and notice my steering wheel is just slightly out of center now..
I will have to address that when I get my new LCA’s.

 

[Headbarcode]

Thanks! Really appreciate it. I’m really happy about how it’s turning out.

For me it was only 4 bolts per corner..
Remove and replace shock. 2 bolts.
Detach sway bar link, keep in mind there’s no need to completely remove it, just unhook one side so your axle can hang lower. That’s onebolt.
Take brake line bracket loose. 1 nut.

So technically, It was only 3 bolts and one nut for me.

the only difference is in the rear where you have to remove An additional 3 little screws to takeoff the plastic piece to access the upper shock bolt.

As far as track bar, I did not touch the track bar. I had no issues where I even thought about touching the track bar.
I did not even need spring compressors like I thought I would. About 30 extra seconds to a minute of finageling the passenger side front spring to get it in but that’s about it.

I have not received my lower cotrol arms yet so I did not do those.
I imagine that will only be another two bolts and another removal of the brake line bracket nut and according to some, some serious hang time on the torque wrench.
Im a heavy equipment mechanic so torquing to 150ft pounds shouldn’t be a problem.

Did you loosen all control arm and track bar bolts, and re torque once back on the ground?

Sponsored