Sponsored

Rubicon suspension with RC level kit on JL sport

MikelMD

Well-Known Member
First Name
Mikel
Joined
Oct 14, 2019
Threads
0
Messages
47
Reaction score
17
Location
Maryland
Vehicle(s)
2020 Punk'n JLU
Occupation
Principal Sales Engineer, Public Sector
So, on order are the LCA's and I think I understand the process, will start w/ the rear and get my confidence up. One big q. I have both a torque wrench that excerpts 50-150 ft/lbs and I bought an electric torque gun that goes to 450ft/lbs. The LCA required 190ft/lbs - how did you guys achieve this - or do I need a new wrench?
Sponsored

 

jmcdtucson

Well-Known Member
First Name
Jerel
Joined
Jun 17, 2018
Threads
12
Messages
698
Reaction score
661
Location
Tucson, AZ
Vehicle(s)
2018 JLU Sport S
Vehicle Showcase
1
So, on order are the LCA's and I think I understand the process, will start w/ the rear and get my confidence up. One big q. I have both a torque wrench that excerpts 50-150 ft/lbs and I bought an electric torque gun that goes to 450ft/lbs. The LCA required 190ft/lbs - how did you guys achieve this - or do I need a new wrench?
Sounds like you need a bigger torque wrench.
 

mgroeger

Well-Known Member
First Name
Mike
Joined
Feb 1, 2018
Threads
150
Messages
5,454
Reaction score
7,844
Location
Hurricane, UT
Vehicle(s)
2021 JLUR 2.0T, 1991 YJ rock crawler
Occupation
I make microchips for a living.
Vehicle Showcase
1
So, on order are the LCA's and I think I understand the process, will start w/ the rear and get my confidence up. One big q. I have both a torque wrench that excerpts 50-150 ft/lbs and I bought an electric torque gun that goes to 450ft/lbs. The LCA required 190ft/lbs - how did you guys achieve this - or do I need a new wrench?
I was in the same boat when I put our lift on. I simply rented a bigger wrench from the local auto store for those bolts that needed to go above 150 ft/lbs. Also a good idea to invest in a paint pen. Once all of your bolts are properly torqued draw a line down the bolt head or nut and across the piece of metal it is bolted to. This will enable you to see if the bolt or nut has turned and possibly loosened. It's a great visual to have for safety. Also don't forget to re-torque everything after 1000 miles.
You should be good to go then. If you do a full on lift and upgrade all of the steering components you will be in the "check your torques every oil change camp". And that's what I do, simply throw a torque wrench on all those bolts when I do and oil change.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000TGC3VO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 

MikelMD

Well-Known Member
First Name
Mikel
Joined
Oct 14, 2019
Threads
0
Messages
47
Reaction score
17
Location
Maryland
Vehicle(s)
2020 Punk'n JLU
Occupation
Principal Sales Engineer, Public Sector
I was in the same boat when I put our lift on. I simply rented a bigger wrench from the local auto store for those bolts that needed to go above 150 ft/lbs. Also a good idea to invest in a paint pen. Once all of your bolts are properly torqued draw a line down the bolt head or nut and across the piece of metal it is bolted to. This will enable you to see if the bolt or nut has turned and possibly loosened. It's a great visual to have for safety. Also don't forget to re-torque everything after 1000 miles.
You should be good to go then. If you do a full on lift and upgrade all of the steering components you will be in the "check your torques every oil change camp". And that's what I do, simply throw a torque wrench on all those bolts when I do and oil change.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000TGC3VO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Great tip! Just bought the pen!
 

MikelMD

Well-Known Member
First Name
Mikel
Joined
Oct 14, 2019
Threads
0
Messages
47
Reaction score
17
Location
Maryland
Vehicle(s)
2020 Punk'n JLU
Occupation
Principal Sales Engineer, Public Sector
I have read, that you should tighten the bolts, then drop the jeep and torque to the correct #. My Q is how tight should I tighten the bolts before I drop her on the ground? I am thinking of torquing to 50%.
 

Sponsored

mgroeger

Well-Known Member
First Name
Mike
Joined
Feb 1, 2018
Threads
150
Messages
5,454
Reaction score
7,844
Location
Hurricane, UT
Vehicle(s)
2021 JLUR 2.0T, 1991 YJ rock crawler
Occupation
I make microchips for a living.
Vehicle Showcase
1
I have read, that you should tighten the bolts, then drop the jeep and torque to the correct #. My Q is how tight should I tighten the bolts before I drop her on the ground? I am thinking of torquing to 50%.
I don't know who told you to tighten control arm bolts and then put it on the ground and tighten them some more but that is VERY wrong.
There is no reason to even raise the Jeep up to swap control arms. If you do raise it all you need to do is have the bolt all the way through and spin the nut on the end then you can put the Jeep on the ground. You want the full weight of the Jeep on the ground and then torque to spec.
Personally, when I swapped control arms or did my lift, I put everything together and then drive it back out of teh garage and back in then tighten it all. It's OCD but I know then that it is settled and ready to be tightened.
 

MikelMD

Well-Known Member
First Name
Mikel
Joined
Oct 14, 2019
Threads
0
Messages
47
Reaction score
17
Location
Maryland
Vehicle(s)
2020 Punk'n JLU
Occupation
Principal Sales Engineer, Public Sector
I don't know who told you to tighten control arm bolts and then put it on the ground and tighten them some more but that is VERY wrong.
There is no reason to even raise the Jeep up to swap control arms. If you do raise it all you need to do is have the bolt all the way through and spin the nut on the end then you can put the Jeep on the ground. You want the full weight of the Jeep on the ground and then torque to spec.
Personally, when I swapped control arms or did my lift, I put everything together and then drive it back out of teh garage and back in then tighten it all. It's OCD but I know then that it is settled and ready to be tightened.
Sorry, I am installing the Rubi springs, shocks and new LCA. So, from what I read, you do not torque on the lift, but once on the ground. So, I plan on using two jack stands to hold the frame up (back then front) and a jack to raise and lower the axel. When I replace the shocks, LCA and other items to tighten. While still on the jack, how much should I tighten?
 

mgroeger

Well-Known Member
First Name
Mike
Joined
Feb 1, 2018
Threads
150
Messages
5,454
Reaction score
7,844
Location
Hurricane, UT
Vehicle(s)
2021 JLUR 2.0T, 1991 YJ rock crawler
Occupation
I make microchips for a living.
Vehicle Showcase
1
Sorry, I am installing the Rubi springs, shocks and new LCA. So, from what I read, you do not torque on the lift, but once on the ground. So, I plan on using two jack stands to hold the frame up (back then front) and a jack to raise and lower the axel. When I replace the shocks, LCA and other items to tighten. While still on the jack, how much should I tighten?
Just snug the nuts down on the control arms so that the bolt can still spin freely. The shocks aren't as important so you can just tighten those by hand and then do a final torque check when the Jeep is on the ground. Two floor stands and the jack are a good method. Don't forget to disconnect the wire harness from the front axle disconnect and you may also need to unbolt the brake lines to allow full droop of the axle.
 

MikelMD

Well-Known Member
First Name
Mikel
Joined
Oct 14, 2019
Threads
0
Messages
47
Reaction score
17
Location
Maryland
Vehicle(s)
2020 Punk'n JLU
Occupation
Principal Sales Engineer, Public Sector
So, today was the day, after weeks and weeks of research. at 7am, nice and careful, I began the uplift project. I started w/ the rear to get my confidence boosted and 4.5 hrs later she has been raised 2" using the Rubicon leftover parts. Now, finished lunch, I am going to start on the front.
 

MikelMD

Well-Known Member
First Name
Mikel
Joined
Oct 14, 2019
Threads
0
Messages
47
Reaction score
17
Location
Maryland
Vehicle(s)
2020 Punk'n JLU
Occupation
Principal Sales Engineer, Public Sector
@mgroeger , hey Mike so weeks of planning and I finally finished the project. I netted 1.25" in the front and 1.75" in the back. Later on today, I am taking it in for an alignment - however, I did not need to adjust the drag link, it looks really good. I am doing it for safety and peace of mind.

Thank for all of your help! Now to look at some 33" or 35" not sure which - yet.
 

Sponsored

mgroeger

Well-Known Member
First Name
Mike
Joined
Feb 1, 2018
Threads
150
Messages
5,454
Reaction score
7,844
Location
Hurricane, UT
Vehicle(s)
2021 JLUR 2.0T, 1991 YJ rock crawler
Occupation
I make microchips for a living.
Vehicle Showcase
1
@mgroeger , hey Mike so weeks of planning and I finally finished the project. I netted 1.25" in the front and 1.75" in the back. Later on today, I am taking it in for an alignment - however, I did not need to adjust the drag link, it looks really good. I am doing it for safety and peace of mind.

Thank for all of your help! Now to look at some 33" or 35" not sure which - yet.
Congrats!!!
The onyl time you need to do an alignment is when you mess with the tie rod. You can play with your drag link all day long and it has no bearing on alignment. Your drag link will straighten your steering wheel out after you do a bigger lift. Lifting the Jeep turns the wheel and the drag link brings it back, but it never hurts to get an alignment done for peace of mind.
If you go to 35s you may rub the inner finders at full articulation.
 

MikelMD

Well-Known Member
First Name
Mikel
Joined
Oct 14, 2019
Threads
0
Messages
47
Reaction score
17
Location
Maryland
Vehicle(s)
2020 Punk'n JLU
Occupation
Principal Sales Engineer, Public Sector
Congrats!!!
The onyl time you need to do an alignment is when you mess with the tie rod. You can play with your drag link all day long and it has no bearing on alignment. Your drag link will straighten your steering wheel out after you do a bigger lift. Lifting the Jeep turns the wheel and the drag link brings it back, but it never hurts to get an alignment done for peace of mind.
If you go to 35s you may rub the inner finders at full articulation.
Well, I like peace of mind but I do not like pending $$ unnecessarily. So, I did not loosen or play w/ the tie rod or the drag link. I took her for a ride and going straight and left/right turns all worked as expected. I am thinking I can save my $$.
 

mgroeger

Well-Known Member
First Name
Mike
Joined
Feb 1, 2018
Threads
150
Messages
5,454
Reaction score
7,844
Location
Hurricane, UT
Vehicle(s)
2021 JLUR 2.0T, 1991 YJ rock crawler
Occupation
I make microchips for a living.
Vehicle Showcase
1
Well, I like peace of mind but I do not like pending $$ unnecessarily. So, I did not loosen or play w/ the tie rod or the drag link. I took her for a ride and going straight and left/right turns all worked as expected. I am thinking I can save my $$.
I would. You've done nothing to screw with it. Personally I'm buying an at home alignment tool from Steer Smarts so I don't need to keep taking it to a shop. I managed to bend my Yeti tie rod the other day off roading so when I replace it I will need to get an alignment. Alignment on a Jeep is stupid simple, you can only adjust toe and caster and if you don't have adjustable LCAs you can't even adjust caster. Toe is very simple to adjust using the tie rod, you simply set it about 1/8" positive toe in and you are done. The cost of the tool list price is about the cost of 1.5 to 2 alignment jobs.
 
Last edited:

Knel6

Well-Known Member
First Name
Kody
Joined
May 4, 2020
Threads
2
Messages
87
Reaction score
48
Location
WA
Vehicle(s)
2020 Jeep Willys
Clubs
 
Nice! That's exactly what I installed. Except I had 60/61 + 91/92 rear. I bet yours is nice and level. Let us know how it drives.
Jerel, I have a set of springs not installed yet that match these numbers (takeoffs 60/61, 91/92, stock 58/59, 87/88). Curious what your experience was and if you installed a leveling kit as most Rubi takeoff installs I have seen listed don’t have the 91/92 rear springs? I don’t mind the factory rake but with my stock springs it appears the rear might be lifted higher. If I understand correctly, the higher the part number the stiffer the spring (front +2, rear +4).

Also, do you have any before after photos with stock tires by chance? Trying to determine if I will want to time the install with new tires - thanks for any feedback/advice you might have.
 

Tangokilo

Well-Known Member
First Name
Tom
Joined
Jan 13, 2019
Threads
3
Messages
103
Reaction score
145
Location
Southwest Michigan
Vehicle(s)
1972 Oldsmobile 442, 2001 4runner, 2010 Honda Accord V6 Coupe, 2011 VW Golf, 1969 Triump T100 MC and 2018 JLU Sport S
After lift photo with 245/75 Duelers. Rubicon take off springs 61/62 front and 90/91 rear, 209/210 shocks with Daystar .75 spacers on my Sport S. Got a nice 2.5 front 2.0 rear inch lift. Almost perfectly level front to rear at the lip of the fenders. I also added the Mopar lift front lower control arms.

20200407_162432.jpg
Sponsored

 
 



Top