Those are pretty short springs for using on a 4dr, wouldn't expect more than a 1" lift there
So what are your new coil set #s 60/61 & 90/91??Definitely some length difference
I’m looking to do the same in my 21’ rubicon diesel. Can you let me know if I need relocation brackets for the mopar longer LCA’s from the lift kit or is this a straight swap on same bracket locations?Here's my quick write-up of the LCA swap, took me about an hour since I didn't use my impact. Link for LCA is here and you need two!
https://www.allmoparparts.com/sku/68322798aa.html
IMO Ramps are best for getting this swapped out, makes it much easier to have decent range for your breaker bar. My ghetto ramps (1 sheet of stacked OSB makes 2 ramps, much stronger than pressed steel ramps) lift about 6" which is fine for this project. And they stack well for a small storage footprint.
One thing you notice is the new LCAs have a different bushing design, the older ones had an outer rubber seal, the new ones have the seal inward. Also like others have mentioned, the new LCAs are heavier, so they must have seen a need for a more rigid bar.
Only tools you I used was 13/16" socket, 15/16" box end wrench, 15mm socket, torque wrench, breaker bar, and a cheat pipe (the handle for my floor jack). FWIW the SAE size sockets are a perfect fit on the bolts/nuts, the 21mm and 24mm that have been used by others ARE NOT a tight fit, and there's been at least one install that I read that had stripped the bolt head, so use those 13/16" sockets especially!
Also a spray of PB blast a day before will help to break the nuts. I only had to use the cheat pipe on my rear passenger side bolt, all others broke w/ just the breaker bar.
Remove brake line bracket w/ 15mm socket.
Not sure if the angled load from the ramps shifted things a bit, but I didn't have to move or pry on anything to get the new longer LCAs installed, the bolt holes lined right up. Removing the bolts from the original LCAs did require just unscrewing them to slowly get them out as they were binding a bit.
I used my 150 ft. lb torque wrench maxed out, then used my breaker bar for another 45 degrees of final torque to tighten the four bolts.
Caster looks to be in the 6 degree range, and steers just as it did prior to my Rubicon spring swap.
Reinstall brake bracket, and drive it like you stole it!
Not sure if the diesel uses all the same parts, I would think they'd be the same, but if you add a lift to your Rubicon you may want adjustable LCAs as your caster will probably still be too low after you lift w/ the new LCAs (depending how much you lift).
If you can verify that you have the same LCAs as non diesels, (should be stamped on the LCA~Mopar part #68250242AB) then the new 1/4" longer Mopar lift LCAs will work well for you since you don't plan any further lifting.
Thanks for the info!
Did you replace with the longer mopar LCA off the 2” lift kit? Did it solve your problem of pulling to one side? (If that’s why you replaced them?)
I never installed them since it still tracks fairly well, I did buy them to put on but now a month later ordered a Clayton OR kit instead.
This item is over a year old, but help me out here....
The older Aluminum steering box is prone to more play in the steering especially at higher temps. This is a different condition than low caster, the higher caster will keep your wheels tracking straight at speed (even if you have the old box w/ excess play). Getting the new box w/ the longer LCAs is ideal (if you currently have caster 5 degrees or less). HTHs
