Rubicon Suspension on 2-door Sport

Roky

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I just wanted to say how helpful this thread has been to my build and how awesome the Jeep community is in general! My buddy and I just installed the rubicon takeoff suspension with 3/4 inch Fishbone spacers all around and 1/2 Teraflex spacer in the front. ROKY is the man! He opened up his garage and almost an entire Saturday to me and my rig to teach and help me install the lift. Oh and I added LCAs which imho really helped with the wandering.

I may add a little bit more in the front because the springs I bought were high in the back and now the back sits about a half inch too high. Roky told me not to put the spacers in the back but I was thirsty for some more lift. Anyway thanks to everyone who commented and did the research in coil numbers etc. really saved me a lot of time and money. I also learned so much about suspensions and Jeeps.
Nice rig!
Glad you found the thread helpful and awesome help @Roky provided, superb Jeeper there!
Thanks guys, for the kind words..... :beer: cheers.





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Dr.Groove

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Thank you *so* much for this detailed write-up! Me and a buddy will be doing the install on my 2door soon. Picked up a full set JLUR suspension with 150miles on it, can't wait. It'll be going on my '19 2 door Sport S with 285/70r17s. My question (so far 🤪) is: do I still need the longer LCAs if I was provided with LCAs from the stock JLUR? Thanks so much!
 

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Thank you *so* much for this detailed write-up! Me and a buddy will be doing the install on my 2door soon. Picked up a full set JLUR suspension with 150miles on it, can't wait. It'll be going on my '19 2 door Sport S with 285/70r17s. My question (so far 🤪) is: do I still need the longer LCAs if I was provided with LCAs from the stock JLUR? Thanks so much!
LCA's from the Rubicon are the same that are on the Sport. Since my last post, I installed the new Rubicon springs, the longer LCA's and 3/4 spacers for the front. I feel like the rake was much more pronounced with the Rubicon springs. After everything was completed, all I needed was an alignment, which I did myself, and everything looks and feels great. For the $70 and having the front end taken apart for the spring install, the extended LCA's make total sense, especially if you ever decide to go a little taller, later on.
 
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blnewt

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LCA's from the Rubicon are the same that are on the Sport. Since my last post, I installed the new Rubicon springs, the longer LCA's and 3/4 spacers for the front. I feel like the rake was much more pronounced with the Rubicon springs. After everything was completed, all I needed was an alignment, which I did myself, and everything looks and feels great. For the $70 and having the front end taken apart for the spring install, the extended LCA's make total sense, especially if you ever decide to go a little taller, later on.
Interesting observation on your JL, on mine I felt I had a bit less rake, or maybe exactly the same prior to the swap.
 

Dr.Groove

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LCA's from the Rubicon are the same that are on the Sport. Since my last post, I installed the new Rubicon springs, the longer LCA's and 3/4 spacers for the front. I feel like the rake was much more pronounced with the Rubicon springs. After everything was completed, all I needed was an alignment, which I did myself, and everything looks and feels great. For the $70 and having the front end taken apart for the spring install, the extended LCA's make total sense, especially if you ever decide to go a little taller, later on.
Gotcha. Ok that makes sense. I don’t plan on going taller in the future. Probably just going to keep it here when I’m done. Would you still recommend spacers? I plan on doing a steel bumper by likely not a winch in the future. Some folks have said teraflex 1/2” in the front? What would you recommend, and front or rear? Or both? Thanks so much!
 
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blnewt

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Gotcha. Ok that makes sense. I don’t plan on going taller in the future. Probably just going to keep it here when I’m done. Would you still recommend spacers? I plan on doing a steel bumper by likely not a winch in the future. Some folks have said teraflex 1/2” in the front? What would you recommend, and front or rear? Or both? Thanks so much!
a 1/2 to 3/4" front spacer would be a good plan if that bumper is in your plans, should be nice & level prior to your bumper install & maybe just a slight rake if you go w/ the 1/2", and level w/ the 3/4".
FWIW here's my 2dr before the swap, after the swap, then after the swap w/ 180lbs of bumper and winch, then w/ a 3/4" front spacer added, then w/ a high fender kit installed. Nice and level in it's current state :)

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Gotcha. Ok that makes sense. I don’t plan on going taller in the future. Probably just going to keep it here when I’m done. Would you still recommend spacers? I plan on doing a steel bumper by likely not a winch in the future. Some folks have said teraflex 1/2” in the front? What would you recommend, and front or rear? Or both? Thanks so much!
Yea, I installed the 3/4 inch spacer on the front only and I think it looks great and didn't change the ride characteristics at all. (https://www.quadratec.com/p/daystar/0.75-front-leveling-kit-jeep-wrangler-jl-unlimited-KJ09182BK). Just make sure that you adjust your headlights after installing all of the equipment.
 

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Thanks for the write up! I gained 3” in the front and 2” in the rear! Here’s a before and after shot.
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blnewt

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Thanks for the write up! I gained 3” in the front and 2” in the rear! Here’s a before and after shot.
Nice lift on your JL, what spring #s did you use, and did you get the longer LCAs too?
 

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Thanks for the write up! I gained 3” in the front and 2” in the rear! Here’s a before and after shot.
C36747C4-3777-4BCE-B02E-3652649E53CD.jpeg

AF03CCE3-BA7E-4EF1-8A23-8C10DD7077D4.jpeg
A5EA60CD-011C-48A9-9A77-E63C66D6B870.jpeg
Don't forget to adjust your headlights. They are already set high from the factory, adding 2-3 inches will make people flash you even more than now.
 

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Nice lift on your JL, what spring #s did you use, and did you get the longer LCAs too?
my springs were the 61/62 combo for the front and the 90/91 combo on the rear. I do have the LCA's but that will be for this upcoming weekend. After fighting and repositioning my Jeep constantly I finished the job in ~5 hours.

Don't forget to adjust your headlights. They are already set high from the factory, adding 2-3 inches will make people flash you even more than now.
That I'll have to do when I get home. I realized that in the drive through line behind a fishbowl Subaru. It didn't help that he was static dropped to the ground either though. Whoops...
 

JLAFAKASI

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Got great info on these links
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...uspension-on-my-jl-sport-s.19356/#post-470484
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...evel-kit-on-jl-sport.13250/page-3#post-432923
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/rubicon-springs-on-sahara.10715/page-2#post-308407
And all torque values for suspension fasteners here~
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...for-jeep-jl-wrangler.17791/page-2#post-518105

First off, big shout out to @MD1 for the parts, best transaction ever! The parts were off a 4dr w/ Hard top & tow pkg which results in about a 1.5-2" lift.`
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All you need are 2 jackstands, low profile jack, but an extra jackstand and floor jack makes it easier. 18mm wrench & socket, 10mm wrench, 8mm wrench and an impact gun will save some time too.

If you don't plan to add steel bumper & winch there's no need for any leveling spacers in front, but if you do plan on that then a .75" front spacer will keep your Jeep level w/ that added weight, so be sure to plan ahead as you don't really want to have a do-over.

There is a downside because you will lower your caster as you raise your Jeep, this will result in tires more prone to wander off center, I hate low caster so I WILL be adding Mopar LCAs from the 2" Mopar lift (part# 68322798AA) to regain the stock caster as my steering was spot-on prior to the lift.
I took a very basic caster baseline measurement w/ a cheap angle/level, it's not for an exact reading but a general range as that's all I need. I put the magnet against the lower flat edge to the inside of the drivers side lower ball joint.
The before which is in the 6 degree range

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And the after which drops about 2 degrees (I know it's hard to tell, but there IS a difference lol)
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Swap took about 4 hours, would probably only take 2 if you've done it before but took some trial & error for jackstand placement & spring removal. Did the rear first, jacked up from the rear differential to get tires about 4" off the ground. If you use the E-brake so you can get rear lug nuts loose be SURE to release it after removing tires since the brake lines are pretty tight when axle is lowered.

Place jackstands on the frame rails, this took a bit of effort to find a placement I wasn't leery of. I try to use the rubber stand pads when possible but the frame on the drivers side is just wide enough to fit between the stand prongs. On the passenger side the gas tank is tight against the frame so I had to place the stand along the rail, and use the pad as shown to get a level seat for the stand, a bit ghetto I know, but worked fine. :(
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Lower axle a bit to ease tension on shocks and links. If your set came w/ end links just store them away for when you get many miles on them and can put fresh ones in. The Rubicon and Sport use the same end links front & rear as well as the same lower control arms.
Remove only the lower bolt on each side end link (18mm for ALL suspension bolts in this project).
Remove the plastic inner fender covers w/ 8mm socket (3 screws), these are located at the top shock mount and need to be removed to get to that bolt.
Remove upper shock bolt, if you have an impact that will save time & effort, this one from Harbor Freight is a beast, will remove crank pulley bolts without a problem :) If you do use an impact there you have to get a long extension and run it in that space between bumper & fender.
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Remove lower shock bolt
You can then lower axle to remove the springs, I did passenger first (these are the slightly taller springs front & rear, and also have a larger spring part#).

BE SURE TO INSTALL THE TALLER OF THE TWO SPRINGS ON THE PASSENGER SIDE!

BE SURE TO KEEP AN EYE ON THE E-BRAKE LINES, they are well padded but could get too tight if you go too low w/ the axle drop. I went just low enough to get the springs out but not to the point of stretching the lines, but it's a close call there, you may want to remove the brake line retainers if you are worried about that.

Just lower the axle enough so you can get the spring out, nothing more. BE SURE to get that rubber tab in the top mount pad back into that hole in the top, it's hard to keep the pad set when trying to install spring and get it jacked snug so you may want to try some double sided tape (like that heavy duty 3m auto tape) to keep pad in place while you're doing this, but I just juggled through it lol.
Once you get spring in place if you have another jackstand or spare jack (even that spare Jeep scissor jack could work here) you can put light pressure on the axle under the new spring to keep it snug.

Lower axle again and remove drivers rear spring, it's harder to get out since the exhaust is there, I have the Dynomax muffler delete so it may be even harder if you have the muffler intact but ???
This was the hardest spring for me to get back in since those brake lines were a concern, but with a breaker bar I just pried the spring over the lower pad mount once it was in to get it finally seated.
Raise axle to line up w/ lower end link bolt holes, install & torque them to spec.
Install upper shock bolt but don't fully torque yet, then I used my extra floor jack to compress the bottom of the shock so it was simple to insert into the lower shock mount, you can then use a long screwdriver to pry the shock a few mm into that mount hole. Then torque upper then lower shock bolts to spec. My Rubicon set didn't come w/ bumpstops but if yours did, compare the new ones w/ your old ones, if the new ones are longer (not sure if they are???) be sure to install if they are :)

Install tires (and if you're old like me these $8 Harbor Freight dollys kick ass), just wheel the tire over to the Jeep, lower/raise the jack to align the holes and press wheel on, no lifting! At 100lbs per that's a big back saver :)
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Be sure to torque lug nuts to 130ft.lbs!

Now for the front, many have had issues using the small jackstands, I WAS able to do this using the standard 3ton Harbor Freight sets. Keep in mind when using these you will be lowering the axle almost to the ground so having a low profile jack is best when going this route. I raised Jeep w/ the tires about 5" off the ground, I raised it at the front differential so you get more lift on the drivers side, in order to get the passenger side high enough I used the other floor jack under the front lower control arm mount (at the axle tube) to get the lift even. You could also use some wood under your single jack to get more lift but this is at your own risk!
Once you get the wheels removed (you should loosen them a bit first on the ground if you don't have an impact gun) you then place your jackstands on the frame, I used the rubber stand pads and placed them where the crossmember attaches to the frame, I just feel better when there's something else for the jackstand to bite to.
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The bracket on the frame that secures the brake lines needs to be removed on both sides (10mm), pull the bracket out so lines are free.

Lower the axle to relieve end link tension, remove only the lower bolt on both end links, you might have to adjust the jack(s) to get the bolt out without binding.

Remove lower shock bolts.

If you are using an impact for upper shock bolt, you can use a long extension, seat your socket on the bolt head and raise the fender liner up, it's a bit of a stretch, but the time you save is worth it. If you go w/ just a ratchet or breaker bar you pull that fender liner out as far as you can to get the ratchet behind it, remove both shocks.
The only other line that gets pretty tight is on the passenger side, it's a taped group of wires that runs from the inner fender area to the axle, mine didn't get tight to the point of concern but just keep an eye there and remove the retainer if it gets worrisome for you.

I did the passenger side first, had to lower axle so the brake rotor was about an inch off the ground to get spring swapped. The upper rubber mount stays in place much better here than in back, but again, there's rubber spikes that need to be inserted in the mount holes so be sure they're in place. if yours came w/ the bumpstops be sure to change them out prior to spring install if they are longer.
BE SURE TO INSTALL THE TALLER OF THE TWO SPRINGS ON THE PASSENGER SIDE!
On the lower rubber mount BE SURE the end of the spring is against that rubber edge/lip. I cheated and used a spring compressor, but you should have no problem prying it in like I did w/ that rear drivers spring. I didn't use a spring compressor on the drivers side FWIW.
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Do the same spring swap for the drivers side, lift up enough to align end link holes, torque end link bolts to spec.

Install upper shock bolts snug but not torqued yet, install lower shock bolts, torque to spec, then torque upper shock bolts to spec.

Install brake line brackets back to frame

Install wheels and snug down, final torque when back on ground.

Raise Jeep enough to remove jackstands, lower Jeep to ground, final wheel torque to 130ft lbs, and enjoy!

Before & after pics (pics not on the same day in case you notice some differences), Tires are 295/70/17 about 33.5" tall, front stock rake doesn't seem to be there now, very level front to back. Jeep drives just about like before except for the lower caster, steering will be back to stock after those LCAs are installed next week, will post a follow up on that. Cheers, and if you made it though this novel, congrats :)

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Are you still running the mopar LCA on your ride? DO you think with this upgrade and the new TSB and alignment steering will be pretty darn good?
 

JLAFAKASI

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a 1/2 to 3/4" front spacer would be a good plan if that bumper is in your plans, should be nice & level prior to your bumper install & maybe just a slight rake if you go w/ the 1/2", and level w/ the 3/4".
FWIW here's my 2dr before the swap, after the swap, then after the swap w/ 180lbs of bumper and winch, then w/ a 3/4" front spacer added, then w/ a high fender kit installed. Nice and level in it's current state :)

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By the way my jeep sport s unlimited is all stock, maybe I dont need the mopar lcas youre speaking of
 
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blnewt

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By the way my jeep sport s unlimited is all stock, maybe I dont need the mopar lcas youre speaking of
You should be ok until you lift it, that new steering box should get you to a good place :)
 

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Love this write up and used it to throw my JLUR eco suspension on. Doing the Mopar lift kit LCAs this weekend and had a quick question on torque specs. If I am reading the chart right in the link they are 103+50 degrees? Only reason I ask is because the write up mentions he maxed out his 140lb wrench then added the degrees? Thanks in advance.
 

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