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Rubicon Suspension on 2-door Sport

Dr. RGB

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Thanks, I am going to give it a try. It seems like the axle would shift.
The axle already shifted with the lift (back to front because of the stock control arms, and left to right because of the stock track bar). The longer LCA's help the axle move into proper position (back to front). An adjustable track bar will help center the axle right and left.
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Turbo_JL

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Got great info on these links
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...uspension-on-my-jl-sport-s.19356/#post-470484
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...evel-kit-on-jl-sport.13250/page-3#post-432923
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/rubicon-springs-on-sahara.10715/page-2#post-308407
And all torque values for suspension fasteners here~
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...for-jeep-jl-wrangler.17791/page-2#post-518105

First off, big shout out to @MD1 for the parts, best transaction ever! The parts were off a 4dr w/ Hard top & tow pkg which results in about a 1.5-2" lift.`
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All you need are 2 jackstands, low profile jack, but an extra jackstand and floor jack makes it easier. 18mm wrench & socket, 10mm wrench, 8mm wrench and an impact gun will save some time too.

If you don't plan to add steel bumper & winch there's no need for any leveling spacers in front, but if you do plan on that then a .75" front spacer will keep your Jeep level w/ that added weight, so be sure to plan ahead as you don't really want to have a do-over.

There is a downside because you will lower your caster as you raise your Jeep, this will result in tires more prone to wander off center, I hate low caster so I WILL be adding Mopar LCAs from the 2" Mopar lift (part# 68322798AA) to regain the stock caster as my steering was spot-on prior to the lift.
I took a very basic caster baseline measurement w/ a cheap angle/level, it's not for an exact reading but a general range as that's all I need. I put the magnet against the lower flat edge to the inside of the drivers side lower ball joint.
The before which is in the 6 degree range

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And the after which drops about 2 degrees (I know it's hard to tell, but there IS a difference lol)
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Swap took about 4 hours, would probably only take 2 if you've done it before but took some trial & error for jackstand placement & spring removal. Did the rear first, jacked up from the rear differential to get tires about 4" off the ground. If you use the E-brake so you can get rear lug nuts loose be SURE to release it after removing tires since the brake lines are pretty tight when axle is lowered.

Place jackstands on the frame rails, this took a bit of effort to find a placement I wasn't leery of. I try to use the rubber stand pads when possible but the frame on the drivers side is just wide enough to fit between the stand prongs. On the passenger side the gas tank is tight against the frame so I had to place the stand along the rail, and use the pad as shown to get a level seat for the stand, a bit ghetto I know, but worked fine. :(
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Lower axle a bit to ease tension on shocks and links. If your set came w/ end links just store them away for when you get many miles on them and can put fresh ones in. The Rubicon and Sport use the same end links front & rear as well as the same lower control arms.
Remove only the lower bolt on each side end link (18mm for ALL suspension bolts in this project).
Remove the plastic inner fender covers w/ 8mm socket (3 screws), these are located at the top shock mount and need to be removed to get to that bolt.
Remove upper shock bolt, if you have an impact that will save time & effort, this one from Harbor Freight is a beast, will remove crank pulley bolts without a problem :) If you do use an impact there you have to get a long extension and run it in that space between bumper & fender.
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Remove lower shock bolt
You can then lower axle to remove the springs, I did passenger first (these are the slightly taller springs front & rear, and also have a larger spring part#).

BE SURE TO INSTALL THE TALLER OF THE TWO SPRINGS ON THE PASSENGER SIDE!

BE SURE TO KEEP AN EYE ON THE E-BRAKE LINES, they are well padded but could get too tight if you go too low w/ the axle drop. I went just low enough to get the springs out but not to the point of stretching the lines, but it's a close call there, you may want to remove the brake line retainers if you are worried about that.

Just lower the axle enough so you can get the spring out, nothing more. BE SURE to get that rubber tab in the top mount pad back into that hole in the top, it's hard to keep the pad set when trying to install spring and get it jacked snug so you may want to try some double sided tape (like that heavy duty 3m auto tape) to keep pad in place while you're doing this, but I just juggled through it lol.
Once you get spring in place if you have another jackstand or spare jack (even that spare Jeep scissor jack could work here) you can put light pressure on the axle under the new spring to keep it snug.

Lower axle again and remove drivers rear spring, it's harder to get out since the exhaust is there, I have the Dynomax muffler delete so it may be even harder if you have the muffler intact but ???
This was the hardest spring for me to get back in since those brake lines were a concern, but with a breaker bar I just pried the spring over the lower pad mount once it was in to get it finally seated.
Raise axle to line up w/ lower end link bolt holes, install & torque them to spec.
Install upper shock bolt but don't fully torque yet, then I used my extra floor jack to compress the bottom of the shock so it was simple to insert into the lower shock mount, you can then use a long screwdriver to pry the shock a few mm into that mount hole. Then torque upper then lower shock bolts to spec. My Rubicon set didn't come w/ bumpstops but if yours did, compare the new ones w/ your old ones, if the new ones are longer (not sure if they are???) be sure to install if they are :)

Install tires (and if you're old like me these $8 Harbor Freight dollys kick ass), just wheel the tire over to the Jeep, lower/raise the jack to align the holes and press wheel on, no lifting! At 100lbs per that's a big back saver :)
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Be sure to torque lug nuts to 130ft.lbs!

Now for the front, many have had issues using the small jackstands, I WAS able to do this using the standard 3ton Harbor Freight sets. Keep in mind when using these you will be lowering the axle almost to the ground so having a low profile jack is best when going this route. I raised Jeep w/ the tires about 5" off the ground, I raised it at the front differential so you get more lift on the drivers side, in order to get the passenger side high enough I used the other floor jack under the front lower control arm mount (at the axle tube) to get the lift even. You could also use some wood under your single jack to get more lift but this is at your own risk!
Once you get the wheels removed (you should loosen them a bit first on the ground if you don't have an impact gun) you then place your jackstands on the frame, I used the rubber stand pads and placed them where the crossmember attaches to the frame, I just feel better when there's something else for the jackstand to bite to.
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The bracket on the frame that secures the brake lines needs to be removed on both sides (10mm), pull the bracket out so lines are free.

Lower the axle to relieve end link tension, remove only the lower bolt on both end links, you might have to adjust the jack(s) to get the bolt out without binding.

Remove lower shock bolts.

If you are using an impact for upper shock bolt, you can use a long extension, seat your socket on the bolt head and raise the fender liner up, it's a bit of a stretch, but the time you save is worth it. If you go w/ just a ratchet or breaker bar you pull that fender liner out as far as you can to get the ratchet behind it, remove both shocks.
The only other line that gets pretty tight is on the passenger side, it's a taped group of wires that runs from the inner fender area to the axle, mine didn't get tight to the point of concern but just keep an eye there and remove the retainer if it gets worrisome for you.

I did the passenger side first, had to lower axle so the brake rotor was about an inch off the ground to get spring swapped. The upper rubber mount stays in place much better here than in back, but again, there's rubber spikes that need to be inserted in the mount holes so be sure they're in place. if yours came w/ the bumpstops be sure to change them out prior to spring install if they are longer.
BE SURE TO INSTALL THE TALLER OF THE TWO SPRINGS ON THE PASSENGER SIDE!
On the lower rubber mount BE SURE the end of the spring is against that rubber edge/lip. I cheated and used a spring compressor, but you should have no problem prying it in like I did w/ that rear drivers spring. I didn't use a spring compressor on the drivers side FWIW.
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Do the same spring swap for the drivers side, lift up enough to align end link holes, torque end link bolts to spec.

Install upper shock bolts snug but not torqued yet, install lower shock bolts, torque to spec, then torque upper shock bolts to spec.

Install brake line brackets back to frame

Install wheels and snug down, final torque when back on ground.

Raise Jeep enough to remove jackstands, lower Jeep to ground, final wheel torque to 130ft lbs, and enjoy!

Before & after pics (pics not on the same day in case you notice some differences), Tires are 295/70/17 about 33.5" tall, front stock rake doesn't seem to be there now, very level front to back. Jeep drives just about like before except for the lower caster, steering will be back to stock after those LCAs are installed next week, will post a follow up on that. Cheers, and if you made it though this novel, congrats :)

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I am about to do the same thing, this article really helps!! Very well written and you include things I haven’t read in other descriptions. Thank you!
 
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blnewt

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I am about to do the same thing, this article really helps!! Very well written and you include things I haven’t read in other descriptions. Thank you!
No problem!
If you have any questions just post em up!
 

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thats correct. I found myself having to use a box wrench, and ratchet + socket, + 1/2 impact to break the bolts.
Yep!!! After doing this with basic hand tools, I went and bought an impact wrench to help with future tinkering (wife has a jeep also). Having that thing in my tool box definitely helped when I finally put a full suspension lift on.
 

JB72

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@blnewt wow, thanks again for this awesomely detailed writeup! My son and I completed the R&R of the suspension today in about 4 hours in my driveway. My initial impression is that it actually handles the potholes, train track crossings, and other road hazards we have in NJ much better than before. The ride is almost as smooth as my wife's JLUS (the longer wheelbase really makes a difference!) and so far I have no complaints. I didn't have any issues with the alignment either; it tracks just as straight as before, and the steering wheel is still centered.

The only deviation from your directions is that we removed both springs at the same time; shorter driver side spring first to give us more room to pop the passenger side out, then we installed the passenger side followed by driver side. And you are right, those upper rear spring pads were a pain to keep in place! I wound up holding it in while my son jacked the axle up and I aligned the spring.

I don't want to clutter your thread too much, but here's a before and after. :) I'll post the actual measurements tomorrow, but it was pretty close to 3" between the tires and suspension.

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WOW!!!! That looks like a perfect stance, still happy with it? I've been on the fence about lifting mine ever since I got it a couple years ago, but this thread really made me want to do it again. I got a set of 59/60 90/91s coming, I've considered swapping for the 61, but not sure the difference would really matter. I'm also curious about the ride, I figured it may be better since it's from a longer wheel base. Last question, and sorry this is a long winded post, does anyone know the difference between (spring #) AD, AB, AC? Mine are 59AD & 60AD, just curious what the different letters mean. And lastly, thank you @blnewt for your in depth process and advice, you helped me decide to finally lift it lol looking forward to her future stance

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Yep!!! After doing this with basic hand tools, I went and bought an impact wrench to help with future tinkering (wife has a jeep also). Having that thing in my tool box definitely helped when I finally put a full suspension lift on.
I went with an electric ratchet + breaker bars. The electric ratchet fits everywhere and works after breaking bolts with breaker bar. Cheaper and more convenient in my opinion. I have a corded 1/2inch impact I mostly use for tire rotations. But the thing is gigantenormous and weights a ton.

When budget allows I will be buying one of those small expensive impacts. But now I am getting all into backyard chickens :CWL:. My wife said I am the man of a thousand hobbies. It is starting to bother her lol.
 

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WOW!!!! That looks like a perfect stance, still happy with it? I've been on the fence about lifting mine ever since I got it a couple years ago, but this thread really made me want to do it again. I got a set of 59/60 90/91s coming, I've considered swapping for the 61, but not sure the difference would really matter. I'm also curious about the ride, I figured it may be better since it's from a longer wheel base. Last question, and sorry this is a long winded post, does anyone know the difference between (spring #) AD, AB, AC? Mine are 59AD & 60AD, just curious what the different letters mean. And lastly, thank you @blnewt for your in depth process and advice, you helped me decide to finally lift it lol looking forward to her future stance

Jeep Wrangler JL Rubicon Suspension on 2-door Sport toledo
Improving the ride is a little subjective. Why would you think a suspension from a 4 door would improve the ride of a 2 door if it was designed for a 4 door? lol.... to me the difference was very small, barely noticeable in the beginning. I think the sport suspension was a little nicer. The shocks on the Rubicon are much better though.

It is a great suspension and the difference between sport and rubi is minimal. I got my springs from a 2 door rubicon fully loaded. I still got a full lift from it.

Jeep Wrangler JL Rubicon Suspension on 2-door Sport IMG_20210411_183843436
 
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blnewt

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WOW!!!! That looks like a perfect stance, still happy with it? I've been on the fence about lifting mine ever since I got it a couple years ago, but this thread really made me want to do it again. I got a set of 59/60 90/91s coming, I've considered swapping for the 61, but not sure the difference would really matter. I'm also curious about the ride, I figured it may be better since it's from a longer wheel base. Last question, and sorry this is a long winded post, does anyone know the difference between (spring #) AD, AB, AC? Mine are 59AD & 60AD, just curious what the different letters mean. And lastly, thank you @blnewt for your in depth process and advice, you helped me decide to finally lift it lol looking forward to her future stance

Jeep Wrangler JL Rubicon Suspension on 2-door Sport IMG_20210411_183843436
The letters after the springs are based on release dates AFAIK, so the higher the letter the newer the springs. I believe that's the only difference. And FWIW you should get a nice lift on your 2 dr, probably in the 2" range w/ the spring #s you listed, and I wouldn't sweat being 1 number lower.
If you plan to add a winch or steel front bumper I'd go ahead and get a 3/4" spacer for the front and do it all at once. I used a JK Rugged Ridge spacer, worked fine once you cut the rubber prongs off the stock isolator pad. Anf your ride will firm up a bit but IMO it's in a good way, I doubt you'll even notice much after driving a few times. And w/ the 2" lift BE SURE to add the Mopar LCAs, your caster really needs to be in the 6 degree range to keep the highway manners at bay. Mine tracks down the road at 75-80 w/ just a finger on the wheel (unless heavy cross winds show up, then it's a white knuckle death grip, lol).
And thanks for the kind words btw!
 

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Improving the ride is a little subjective. Why would you think a suspension from a 4 door would improve the ride of a 2 door if it was designed for a 4 door? lol.... to me the difference was very small, barely noticeable in the beginning. I think the sport suspension was a little nicer. The shocks on the Rubicon are much better though.
...
I thought the factory springs on my 2dr were too soft/too much body roll on the road. These 4dr rubi springs seemed to firm the ride up a little for me, which I prefer to a swishy/disconnected feeling suspension. Like you say, it's subjective.
 

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blnewt

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I thought the factory springs on my 2dr were too soft/too much body roll on the road. These 4dr rubi springs seemed to firm the ride up a little for me, which I prefer to a swishy/disconnected feeling suspension. Like you say, it's subjective.
Pretty much my impressions as well, the difference in going to larger E-rated tires was much more significant than the suspension swap IME.
 

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I added 3/4" poly spacers to my 4 door rubicon springs on my 2 door. It seemed to level it out and give me some additional rear downtravel.
I did the same... raised the rear enough to level the stance....
 

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The letters after the springs are based on release dates AFAIK, so the higher the letter the newer the springs. I believe that's the only difference. And FWIW you should get a nice lift on your 2 dr, probably in the 2" range w/ the spring #s you listed, and I wouldn't sweat being 1 number lower.
If you plan to add a winch or steel front bumper I'd go ahead and get a 3/4" spacer for the front and do it all at once. I used a JK Rugged Ridge spacer, worked fine once you cut the rubber prongs off the stock isolator pad. Anf your ride will firm up a bit but IMO it's in a good way, I doubt you'll even notice much after driving a few times. And w/ the 2" lift BE SURE to add the Mopar LCAs, your caster really needs to be in the 6 degree range to keep the highway manners at bay. Mine tracks down the road at 75-80 w/ just a finger on the wheel (unless heavy cross winds show up, then it's a white knuckle death grip, lol).
And thanks for the kind words btw!
I ordered the LCAs right after the suspension haha! I'm still undecided about the bumper. I'm not in any hurry to get one, but if and when I do it'll probably be the Mopar steel bumper.
 

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Improving the ride is a little subjective. Why would you think a suspension from a 4 door would improve the ride of a 2 door if it was designed for a 4 door? lol.... to me the difference was very small, barely noticeable in the beginning. I think the sport suspension was a little nicer. The shocks on the Rubicon are much better though.

It is a great suspension and the difference between sport and rubi is minimal. I got my springs from a 2 door rubicon fully loaded. I still got a full lift from it.

Jeep Wrangler JL Rubicon Suspension on 2-door Sport IMG_20210411_183843436
You're right, it may just be a mind thing. I just always assumed longer wheelbase is a smoother ride. Either way I'll be fine, I've only noticed one negative comment about the ride during my quest reading thru rubicon suspension forums lol. Really nice Jeep btw, granite was my next color choice if mojito didn't work out!
 

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I did the same... raised the rear enough to level the stance....
The rear? Are you carrying a lot of extra weight?
I don't know if there is a solution for everybody- Rubi takeoff springs on my 4 door sport gave me 1.5" lift front and 2" lift rear, some people have suggested starting with the addition of a 1/2" spacer front to level it out.
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