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Rubicon Rear Differential Gear Oil Capacity Surprise

DanW

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Well, I had some leftover gear oil from changing the diff fluid on my JK, and from my buddy doing his, so I decided to go ahead and do a quick change on the JL's rear diff. I know, I know, it is way early, but I'm going to do some LONG highway driving and lots of crawling, and I had LOTS of gear lube, and it made me feel good. So there, that's why.

Anyway...I ran into a couple of surprises.

First, on the JK, with the towing package, and if you plan to actually do any towing, it specifies 75w140 gear lube. That makes sense, and my JK has done just fine with Walmart Supertech full synthetic. I just changed it out at 30k, and the fluid looked pretty good. I've done lots of towing, so 30k is a good place to swap it. It takes a little over 2 quarts in the Dana 44. I looked in the manual, and no matter what, towing or not, severe service, or not, it specifies 75w85, which isn't even synthetic. I looked and looked and saw nothing additional for severe service. Maybe I missed it? I went ahead and put Valvoline 75w90 full synthetic in it. (Update: It does recommend 75w140 for towing. I've since swapped Valvoline Synthetic 75w140).

The second surprise was how little the JL Dana 44 (M220) held. It did not hold a full 2 quarts before dripping out the fill hole. I'm pretty shocked at that. I couldn't find the published capacity in the manual, so does anyone know the actual published capacity? I want to say it took about 1.5 quarts, maybe a little less. I'm really surprised at this.

The old fluid, with 9,700 miles on it, looked pretty good, as it should, but it did have quite a bit of metal on the magnetic drain plug. It wasn't enough for any alarm, and seemed about what I'd expect from break-in. I was VERY tempted to go with 75w140, though, because I do tow a fishing boat on occasion. However, I stuck to the recommendation, since I'm running a good quality full synthetic.

I'm now curious what the front holds. I'm not going to bother with it, though. The JK's front fluid looked new at 30k and had almost no metal on the magnet. The JL, with it's disconnect, should put even less stress on the gear oil. It will go the full 30 or 36k, whichever the manual recommends. Same with the transfer case. The JK fluid came out looking brand new.
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JIMBOX

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I used Valvoline 75w-140 for 8 years in my JKUR, so that's what I just used in my JL--I installed MOTORBILT diff covers, so it was THE RIGHT TIME--

Very little metal on the Magnet in both front/rear-

I don't know the capacity either, but in the rear you should "ROCK" the jeep and drive for a few minutes, then recheck--

The rear Diff. will send fluid out the axles also. so it'll read a little less after you first fill--you can add more !

W.E.

JIMBO
 
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DanW

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I used Valvoline 75w-140 for 8 years in my JKUR, so that's what I just used in my JL--I installed MOTORBILT diff covers, so it was THE RIGHT TIME--

Very little metal on the Magnet in both front/rear-

I don't know the capacity either, but in the rear you should "ROCK" the jeep and drive for a few minutes, then recheck--

The rear Diff. will send fluid out the axles also. so it'll read a little less after you first fill--you can add more !

W.E.

JIMBO
When looking at it from the side, you can tell it has a great deal less capacity than the JK. it just isn't as deep. I'll check it again tonight, but I think it is right where it is supposed to be. I'll probably swap it out for 75w140 if I tow a camper or boat on a trip. Otherwise, I'll just tow the short distance to the lake and use the JK for bigger jobs.
 

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I know this isn’t Jeep specific but Gale banks from banks engineering has been doing some testing with aftermarket diff covers and the thought process behind overfilling them. According to him and their research there not much better than stock and overfilling them is very detrimental and actually increase the temp. Buying the thicker/stronger ones for protection is one thing but the ones that are blocky or advertising more capacity aren’t necessarily good for them. Check out his videos. Especially applicable to the tow pigs pulling these

Brett
 

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DanW

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If you ordered the tow option Jeep recommends 75w140, at least for the rear.

Per Jeep Informant's info:
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0...Fluids_and_capacities.pdf?7789002515287705967

Lots of confusion around, hell Jeep cannot even get me the proper Owner's Manual lol.
My manual says nothing about 75w140.

Banks, btw, in his videos, put 75w90 in the rear diff of the Dodge dually. I was surprised by that.

Did Jeep Informant have access to an updated owner's manual? Where did he get the info? I'll have to look it up on the Uconnect screen. Maybe that will have the latest manual.
 
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A friend of mine builds aftermarket differentials for custom 4x4 builds. He suggests changing differential fluid after the first 1,000 miles due to metal shavings. Amsoil suggest that you wait until at least 4,000 miles to run their product in a differential. I usually change the front and rear at 4,000 miles and again after 30-40k miles with full synthetic of whatever the manual calls for.
 
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DanW

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From The JL service manual, I hope this helps.
Awesome! That now makes sense. I'll swap it out this spring when I start towing again. Thank you!

Can that manual be had in its entirety online?
 

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Awesome! That now makes sense. I'll swap it out this spring when I start towing again. Thank you!

Can that manual be had in its entirety online?
I do not believe so.
I bought the dvd version of the manual, as I do almost all my own work on my cars.
 

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Well, I had some leftover gear oil from changing the diff fluid on my JK, and from my buddy doing his, so I decided to go ahead and do a quick change on the JL's rear diff. I know, I know, it is way early, but I'm going to do some LONG highway driving and lots of crawling, and I had LOTS of gear lube, and it made me feel good. So there, that's why.

Anyway...I ran into a couple of surprises.

First, on the JK, with the towing package, and if you plan to actually do any towing, it specifies 75w140 gear lube. That makes sense, and my JK has done just fine with Walmart Supertech full synthetic. I just changed it out at 30k, and the fluid looked pretty good. I've done lots of towing, so 30k is a good place to swap it. It takes a little over 2 quarts in the Dana 44. I looked in the manual, and no matter what, towing or not, severe service, or not, it specifies 75w85, which isn't even synthetic. I looked and looked and saw nothing additional for severe service. Maybe I missed it? I went ahead and put Valvoline 75w90 full synthetic in it.

The second surprise was how little the JL Dana 44 (M220) held. It did not hold a full 2 quarts before dripping out the fill hole. I'm pretty shocked at that. I couldn't find the published capacity in the manual, so does anyone know the actual published capacity? I want to say it took about 1.5 quarts, maybe a little less. I'm really surprised at this.

The old fluid, with 9,700 miles on it, looked pretty good, as it should, but it did have quite a bit of metal on the magnetic drain plug. It wasn't enough for any alarm, and seemed about what I'd expect from break-in. I was VERY tempted to go with 75w140, though, because I do tow a fishing boat on occasion. However, I stuck to the recommendation, since I'm running a good quality full synthetic.

I'm now curious what the front holds. I'm not going to bother with it, though. The JK's front fluid looked new at 30k and had almost no metal on the magnet. The JL, with it's disconnect, should put even less stress on the gear oil. It will go the full 30 or 36k, whichever the manual recommends. Same with the transfer case. The JK fluid came out looking brand new.
My front diff fluid looked like garbage after a rough 1st thousand miles or so.
 

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I do not believe so.
I bought the dvd version of the manual, as I do almost all my own work on my cars.
Is that for the owners manual or the Factory Service Manual?
 
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Why are the 200mm, 210mm, and 220mm axles all shown as "D44" in that service manual? Odd...

Reduction to 1.5 quarts of fluid, reduction to 90 weight standard fill, ball bearing style pinion bearings, smaller ring/pinion to reduce weight, FAD returns to the front axles, etc.. Looks like every single thing Dana did on these axles is geared toward fuel efficiency.
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