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rallydefault

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I'd settle for a check box for 1" lift, rear locker (or even Truetrac), Rubicon fenders, 35's and 4.56 (MT) or 4.88(AT) gears. Would cost them maybe a grand.
Yea, that sounds pretty cool. They'd probably charge 3k for that, but on a Sport it would be a cool option to see.
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LooselyHeldPlans

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5.13s from the factory. Yeah, no.
 

guarnibl

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I just don't see FCA offering 37's from the factory or axles with 5.13's. The rest of the items mentioned seem plausible, but I don't think it will be a 'Rubicon' package.
 

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MrKnowitall

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Why would you want lower gears for the auto? I'd want the opposite. No torque multiplication with the manual.
The auto has a taller final drive. On 35’s with the auto and 4.88s you’ll turn 2500rpm at 80mph. For anything but downhill with a tailwind, you want that much to push all that turbulence without downshifting all the time. It’ll also keep the engine in the more efficient part-load operation.
With the manual, 4.88s would get buzzy on 35s
 

word302

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The auto has a taller final drive. On 35’s with the auto and 4.88s you’ll turn 2500rpm at 80mph. For anything but downhill with a tailwind, you want that much to push all that turbulence without downshifting all the time. It’ll also keep the engine in the more efficient part-load operation.
With the manual, 4.88s would get buzzy on 35s
As an owner of the manual I completely disagree. Sitting on 37s and going 5:13s ASAP. Not sure what you mean by "buzzy".
 

MrKnowitall

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As an owner of the manual I completely disagree. Sitting on 37s and going 5:13s ASAP. Not sure what you mean by "buzzy".
With 37s you’ll be at 2800 at 80. Should keep things peppy enough. For the auto I’m simply of the opinion that there is no reason to regear to anything less than 5.13.
 

word302

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With 37s you’ll be at 2800 at 80. Should keep things peppy enough. For the auto I’m simply of the opinion that there is no reason to regear to anything less than 5.13.
Lol, do you have any experience with either transmission?
 

MrKnowitall

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Lol, do you have any experience with either transmission?
Don’t need experience to do simple math.
566 rev/mi x 5.13 x 0.72 x 80 mi/h / 60 min/h = 2800rpm. If you want to put 5.13s in your 6spd rig, that’s YOUR business. In vehicles that don’t have the 8HP I’d agree that the MT needs deeper gears, but because of the huge OD, there just aren’t any drawbacks to going with the deepest reasonably strong gear with the 8speed.
 

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word302

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Don’t need experience to do simple math.
566 rev/mi x 5.13 x 0.72 x 80 mi/h / 60 min/h = 2800rpm. If you want to put 5.13s in your 6spd rig, that’s YOUR business. In vehicles that don’t have the 8HP I’d agree that the MT needs deeper gears, but because of the huge OD, there just aren’t any drawbacks to going with the deepest reasonably strong gear with the 8speed.
Lol, exactly what I thought, 0 first hand experience. The 3.6 has very poor off-idle torque. You have to be above 4000 RPM to get it in it's power band. The torque multiplication of an auto makes up for quite a bit of that. Gearing choice is just as much, off not more about off-road performance as on road. Plenty of people satisfied with the stock Rubicon gears with auto and 37s, not so much with the manual. Math only gets you so far without an understanding of shift points and power band.
 

The Last Cowboy

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4.88 with 37s will give you the closest feel to the stock gearing on a Rubicon and 4.10.with all others. Lower gears are great for the trail and lower speed driving. Gears at 5.13 or lower will make the 6 speed much easier to drive based on the torque range. My JK 6 speed seemed very finicky until I got used to it. It had 3.73s and 32” tires. I got an auto this time because I work in town now and it’s much easier in stop and go traffic. On the plus side, this 8 speed is a really great auto. I wish I could have 3.73s like the JK, but the deep first gear of the 8sp makes up for some of it.
 

xerogravsix

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Newb question, is it possible to get the front and rear Tru-Lok® electronic locking differentials. added on if you've already gotten one without it?

I've search, but found no answer, this thread seems as good a place as any to ask it.

tia
 

word302

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Newb question, is it possible to get the front and rear Tru-Lok® electronic locking differentials. added on if you've already gotten one without it?

I've search, but found no answer, this thread seems as good a place as any to ask it.

tia
There are much better selectable lockers available. The ARBs are bulletproof but would also require an air compressor. Eaton makes quality e-lockers as well.
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