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Rubicon having issue going up the same terrain while sport easily went up

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Teghogh

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Thanks you for getting back on point.
Still no one has still answered the fundamental question, does the Rubicon utilize BLD or not? (Pretty sure it does unless it was malfunctioning) If it does, then it does seem like the Rubicon in the video experienced excessive front wheel spin without engaging BLD regardless of poor driving skill, rock or unfair advantage of the sport due to LSD. Maybe he was too light on the gas, I know BLD likes a little extra pedal to engage, if your light or let off, it might not engage.
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whit

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Maybe he was too light on the gas, I know BLD likes a little extra pedal to engage, if your light or let off, it might not engage.
I think this is exactly what happened. Doesn't seem to me like the Rubi really gave it enough gas long enough for BLD to kick in and/or be effective. I won't start calling names, but he was definitely driving very cautiously to say the least :giggle:

Best way to use BLD is to gradually keep applying more throttle when a wheel starts slipping. This will both make the slipping wheel spin faster (which will then trigger BLD for sure) and it will generate more power/torque to send to the wheel with traction. If the guy driving the Rubi did this, I have no doubt he would have cleared that without needing to put on his lockers.
 
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Teghogh

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BLd should work with low to little pedal I’m ; low since it works based on traction slippage. Besides doesn’t more gas pedal d suddenly torque transfer lead to axle breakage?

Still no one has still answered the fundamental question, does the Rubicon utilize BLD or not? (Pretty sure it does unless it was malfunctioning) If it does, then it does seem like the Rubicon in the video experienced excessive front wheel spin without engaging BLD regardless of poor driving skill, rock or unfair advantage of the sport due to LSD. Maybe he was too light on the gas, I know BLD likes a little extra pedal to engage, if your light or let off, it might not engage.
 
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Teghogh

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I think this is exactly what happened. Doesn't seem to me like the Rubi really gave it enough gas long enough for BLD to kick in and/or be effective. I won't start calling names, but he was definitely driving very cautiously to say the least :giggle:

Best way to use BLD is to gradually keep applying more throttle when a wheel starts slipping. This will both make the slipping wheel spin faster (which will then trigger BLD for sure) and it will generate more power/torque to send to the wheel with traction. If the guy driving the Rubi did this, I have no doubt he would have cleared that without needing to put on his lockers.
Maybe you are right . But I was not applying more gas than he was
 

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Teghogh

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I have seen this video of jk previously I’m sure they did change the design since there and I do feel a bit of kick when engages I have no doubt mine engaged. Again this is the only instance that I have the video but it has happened every time we go out
"Fast" is relative. The 4wheeling adage of "as slow as possible as fast as necessary" applies. In any of the cases you posted, a tiny bit of momentum would have resulted in no wheel spin whatsoever. I get what you're saying....you were trying to get it to engage....what I'm saying is: I'm not certain you were successful in either vehicle. Take a look at your videos vs. this one:

I don't think any of your 'testing' was severe enough to actually engage the system as you'll notice when it does engage it's a lot more jerky than what your video shows. Also, you can usually hear the calipers gripping on the spinning side. I didn't hear any of that in your vids.
 

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BLd should work with low to little pedal I’m ; low since it works based on traction slippage. Besides doesn’t more gas pedal d suddenly torque transfer lead to axle breakage?
Lol...do you have any idea what it takes to break a Jeep axle? You guys were in some soft sand and your driving was not even in the realm of possibly sorta close to needing to worry about breaking an axle.

And I'm not sure what you're basing your statement on when you say it should work with "low to little pedal." Were you one of the engineers that designed it? I have no idea how much slippage is required to trip the threshold for BLD to engage, but there's definitely a threshold. It certainly doesn't engage the second one tire slips an inch with the throttle at idle. Gotta give it some gas
 

whit

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Maybe you are right . But I was not applying more gas than he was
Right. But I agree with Sean K - I don't think either of you actually had BLD engage in that video.

As others have said, I think you made it over and the Rubi did not was due to slightly different line, slightly different driving, the benefit of your LSD in the rear, etc.
 

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That can't be right, I see all the time in the forums if you want a real jeep get the rubicon.
Interesting... by this logic (that the Rubicon is the only real Jeep) it would mean that from 1941-2002 were pretend Jeeps.
Rubis are great and if we had it to do over we'd get one because of how much we have come to off road our Sahara, and are now thinking of throwing a locker in the rear. But it seems on road and on forum, owning a Rubi seems to have a real attitude from some of the owners. The Jeep family modo seems to go out the window with some of them. It's as if the other models are step children.
 

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BLd should work with low to little pedal I’m ; low since it works based on traction slippage. Besides doesn’t more gas pedal d suddenly torque transfer lead to axle breakage?
You don't seem to understand how BLD works.
 

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Looks like them tires are at 100 PSI !! LOL
 

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I had a 2001 H1 HMCO (4 door soft top). I’m 03 they came out with electronic lockers. For mine you had something called BTM (brake throttle modulation) or TT4. When you had a wheel spinning or in the air you need to get your rpms to around 1500-1700 and slowly apply brakes. It works under the same principle as the jeeps. The half shafts had a tone ring and would signal the wheel speed to the abs controller and it would apply pressure effectively locking the axle. Problem was the wheels were 175-200lbs with a run flat and stabbing the brake would snap half shafts quick. I personally didn’t care for this system because it encourages you to have high wheel speed and isnt as precise as I’d like.

For your Jeep, get lockers. You two look like you’re having fun but are a trainwreck waiting to happen. Tell your buddy to get a tazerjl so he can use his lockers in 4H and get some more trials under your belts

Brett
 
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with an open diff, the power goes to the wheel with the least amount of traction. that's when BLD should kick in. we used to pull up on the parking brake a click or two just to emulate BLD, even before it was a thing.

an LSD diff will out perform an open diff all day long. but lock one or both axles, and a jeep with lockers will out perform an LSD equipped jeep extensively.

even TJ rubi's had open diff with air lockers. no jeep came with LSD in the front axle.
i had two TJ's and a cherokee with LSD, they did quite well on most trails. but once i swapped rear axle in the XJ and added a lunchbox locker in just the rear, it out performed even my TJ's. then i locked the front and sometimes did even better than the rubi's.

i will lock the rear axle once i select 4 low, just to keep the jeep moving in the rough. then lock the front as i'm coming up to a more difficult section. sway bar always gets disconnected as soon as i hit the trail.
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