Rubicon Factory Sway Bar Disconnect vs ORO Swayloc

[FreedomFur]

Hi guys,

I have an order submitted for my first Rubicon with the 392 Xtreme package. I currently have a 2021 Willys JLU with a 2” lift and installed the ORO Sway Loc (manual version). It drives great, although definitely added a few rattles when the sway bar is locked up (to be expected).

I was going to leave the Swayloc on the 2021 Willys when I sell it, but am wondering if I should pull it off and replace it with the factory sport sway bar? I keep reading horror stories about the factory electronic sway bar disconnect on the Rubicon running into issues, especially around water (#classactionlawsuit). I do run a Tazer Mini that I will transfer over which could help here with button mapping or error issues, however I am not shy around water.

The big questions I have are:

1. Am I running any risk going fully disconnected vs the Swayloc system I am used to? My Jeep is not top heavy, i.e. geared for over landing.
2. Will I gain or lose performance with the Rubicon setup versus the Swayloc?
3. What are the chances I run into issues with the factory Rubicon electronic disconnect and will want to put in the Swayloc, potentially plumbing an air line and running it to a switch in the cab?

Just trying to decide if it is worth stripping off in the likely event I will need it in the future (I don’t mind buying a new one if someone things the sale value will go up appropriately to leave the Swayloc on my Willys).

Thank you!

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[mwilk012]

Whatever issues you think there are with the rubicon disconnect, they are likely imaginary.

 

[FreedomFur]

Whatever issues you think there are with the rubicon disconnect, they are likely imaginary.

Do you find that there is excess body roll with them versus and anti-rock or swayloc?

 

[mwilk012]

With at most a 2” lift, I don’t think the stock setup is a problem. I have a rear sway bar in the mail anyway to try to stiffen it up, but that’s mostly just out of curiosity.

 

[FreedomFur]

With at most a 2” lift, I don’t think the stock setup is a problem. I have a rear sway bar in the mail anyway to try to stiffen it up, but that’s mostly just out of curiosity.

How long have you had yours? Any issues with the motor or sensors failing?

 

[mwilk012]

How long have you had yours? Any issues with the motor or sensors failing?

Since April of 18. No problems whatsoever with my Jeep other than a radiator needing replacement last week.

 

[Knel6]

Hi guys,

I have an order submitted for my first Rubicon with the 392 Xtreme package. I currently have a 2021 Willys JLU with a 2” lift and installed the ORO Sway Loc (manual version). It drives great, although definitely added a few rattles when the sway bar is locked up (to be expected).

I was going to leave the Swayloc on the 2021 Willys when I sell it, but am wondering if I should pull it off and replace it with the factory sport sway bar? I keep reading horror stories about the factory electronic sway bar disconnect on the Rubicon running into issues, especially around water (#classactionlawsuit). I do run a Tazer Mini that I will transfer over which could help here with button mapping or error issues, however I am not shy around water.

The big questions I have are:

1. Am I running any risk going fully disconnected vs the Swayloc system I am used to? My Jeep is not top heavy, i.e. geared for over landing.
2. Will I gain or lose performance with the Rubicon setup versus the Swayloc?
3. What are the chances I run into issues with the factory Rubicon electronic disconnect and will want to put in the Swayloc, potentially plumbing an air line and running it to a switch in the cab?

Just trying to decide if it is worth stripping off in the likely event I will need it in the future (I don’t mind buying a new one if someone things the sale value will go up appropriately to leave the Swayloc on my Willys).

Thank you!

Curious what you decided, considering a swayloc system myself and have wondered about the performance difference between the two. Also, when you mention added a few rattles are there parts of the swayloc that are loose?

 

[FreedomFur]

Curious what you decided, considering a swayloc system myself and have wondered about the performance difference between the two. Also, when you mention added a few rattles are there parts of the swayloc that are loose?

Been running the factory e disconnect for now but have the ORO in the shed in case the e disconnect craps out.

 

[Headbarcode]

Edisconnect sway motor failures due to water intrusion were a common JK issue. The motor assembly has been improved for the JL. I've yet to hear of any issues that weren't user induced.

 

[CptFloridaMan]

Curious what you decided, considering a swayloc system myself and have wondered about the performance difference between the two. Also, when you mention added a few rattles are there parts of the swayloc that are loose?

So I’ve got a swayloc and love it. 90% of the time it’s in the soft rate for around town, I lock it up for the highway.

It does rattle kinda, not a big deal as it’s just the latch since it has a machined tolerance.

Below is the email from Steve from ORO when i asked about noise.

Do note however that you may, or may not having rubbing issues depending on tire width, wheel backspacing or axle width. I had some minor rubbing on the air cylinder on mine but that was also when I had 1/4” toe in before an alignment. Don’t have issues anymore but haven’t flexed it to test it lock to lock.

So there is typically 3 areas that create noise.
1. Rod ends, on the linkages, we use the highest quality QA1 3 piece Teflon lined joint we can... but occasionally they do beat the Teflon out and get loose, this results in a noise as the jeep ricks side to side and the load changes from push to pull. Unfortunately service is to replace that loose unit. But that fixes it again until another loosenes up. And officially for the several hundred of those that ships month, the number that we get reported to make noise is quite few
2. Bushings between frame mount and torsion bars. Usually when this is reported, it is because the bushing has slipped from the mount, and that is usually due to mis-installation of the clamp to retain it. Sometimes the bushings get loose, develop play between bushing and bar (they are greasable to extend life/prevent this) and then replacing the bushings may be necessary. Inexpensive parts available from us
3. Latch. The latch needs to be loose enough in the arm to slide, especially when covered in dirt, mud, slime... so we have a tolerance between the latch and the slot. As the jeep ricks side to side, the rod ends control that, but the latch is what keeps the SwayLOC together for the firm mode. So as things rock the latch may give a rattle as things are working. Ironically the remote version with the more aggressive pressure from the spring inside the air cylinder.. doesn’t rattle near as much... and the worst part, JK/JK/JT, the latch is on driver side... so driving down the freeway in the fast lane with a wall on your left, your inviting the latch noise to echo right up to the drivers ear. We need to allow the latch to slide, so other than we have made changes over the last couple years to make the latch tighter without more tendencies to bind, there’s not much to do about that one.
4. The whole premise of the swayloc is the bar inside of the bar, when the latch is engaged the latch will cause the arms to pivot at the latch and this forces the inner bar up/down inside of the outer, and again we have tested and adjusted clearance over the years to reduce the tolerance between the inner/outer to a minimum, without making it so tight that forgetting to grease it and setting still for 10 years will cause it to corrode tight. And yes, there is a grease zerk in the end of the bar that allows you to pump grease into this area, the grease lines the pivot process, but allows adds a bit of a cushion to prevent the noise.

So with that, that is what I can tell you of reported noises, solutions and what we have done to address them.

With that, is the SwayLOC right for you? We hope so! But we understand if you decide against.

With us being in Moab right now, for Easter jeep safari, we can’t ship anything until after we return.. and SwayLOC are in process and we wonts be able to ship those until we get parts back from Black e-coat so just before may 1.

And... being we are in Moab, coupon code Moab22 and you’ll get the same deal that our show customers get out here!

With that, what else may I try to answer for ya?

Thanks
Steve

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