Rubicon Axle swap in worth it?

[JLanesey]

I told mine it was a future planter box. To her credit she actually got excited. Then one of our friends wanted it as a chicken box for raising hatchlings and we decided that was cooler because it will be inside and the logo won't fade. Meanwhile the Jeep is on a 4.88 UD44 that's gone un-noticed except for the extra noise up front from metal-on-metal spring on perch. My wife was out of town when I did the swap, lol.

I’ve got the other one coming tomorrow (M220). The list got big quick but I tried to keep it reasonable and only replace what’s needed to be functional:

4.88 UD44
M220
Rev. 4.88 R+P
Dana spicer master install kit M220
Currie Currectlync trac bar and drag link
Metalcloak undercloak kit w/ e torque
Advantek M220 diff cover
Mopar e locker harnesses
Viair 450P
Metalcloak quick disconnects


Will probably just empty last pocket and order some Adam’s or Tom woods driveshafts once I have the axles fitted.

with The Clayton 3.5, solid winch setup and some good lighting which is already in place I think I’ll have a pretty solid rig for wheeling up here in New England.

I explained to my wife this was still cheaper than trading in for a rubicon and I’ll have tougher parts, and she’ll have TWO chicken coop / planter boxes.

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[Some Random Guy]

I’ve got the other one coming tomorrow (M220). The list got big quick but I tried to keep it reasonable and only replace what’s needed to be functional:

4.88 UD44
M220
Rev. 4.88 R+P
Dana spicer master install kit M220
Currie Currectlync trac bar and drag link
Metalcloak undercloak kit w/ e torque
Advantek M220 diff cover
Mopar e locker harnesses
Viair 450P
Metalcloak quick disconnects


Will probably just empty last pocket and order some Adam’s or Tom woods driveshafts once I have the axles fitted.

with The Clayton 3.5, solid winch setup and some good lighting which is already in place I think I’ll have a pretty solid rig for wheeling up here in New England.

I explained to my wife this was still cheaper than trading in for a rubicon and I’ll have tougher parts, and she’ll have TWO chicken coop / planter boxes.

Heads up, the metalcloak qdc won’t work with the UD44. There is a vestigial bracket you can cut off if you don’t need it. I think it’s a steering stabilizer bracket. I haven’t cut it yet. It prevents install. Even if you cut it you might have to grind some welds.

 

[WontonJLUR]

I’ve got the other one coming tomorrow (M220). The list got big quick but I tried to keep it reasonable and only replace what’s needed to be functional:

4.88 UD44
M220
Rev. 4.88 R+P
Dana spicer master install kit M220
Currie Currectlync trac bar and drag link
Metalcloak undercloak kit w/ e torque
Advantek M220 diff cover
Mopar e locker harnesses
Viair 450P
Metalcloak quick disconnects


Will probably just empty last pocket and order some Adam’s or Tom woods driveshafts once I have the axles fitted.

with The Clayton 3.5, solid winch setup and some good lighting which is already in place I think I’ll have a pretty solid rig for wheeling up here in New England.

I explained to my wife this was still cheaper than trading in for a rubicon and I’ll have tougher parts, and she’ll have TWO chicken coop / planter boxes.

Buy once cry once! You ever get out to Rausch Creek? Be cool to meet up some time during summer.

 

[JLanesey]

Buy once cry once! You ever get out to Rausch Creek? Be cool to meet up some time during summer.

Looks like I’m less than four hours away, so definitley possible for a day trip. I’d also like to make a trip up with others to Jericho, NH this year.

 

[JLanesey]

Heads up, the metalcloak qdc won’t work with the UD44. There is a vestigial bracket you can cut off if you don’t need it. I think it’s a steering stabilizer bracket. I haven’t cut it yet. It prevents install. Even if you cut it you might have to grind some welds.

Ouch, cutting that brand new UD44 is frightening. I took advantage of the MC 10% off sale on St. Paddy’s.

I don’t consider the QDCs really important but would like a quicker option than unbolting. Right now I have the Clayton links so maybe between the two I can make something work.

I thought about finding a Rubi sway bar but I’m not crazy about the design and can’t justify.

T Case and driveshafts soon then it will be good for a bit.

 

[Tredsdert]

I personally have never understood this myself. In the Jeep world the king of kings is the tons. One ton axles. It's like you upgrade to Dana 44s and next thing you know couple years down the road you're trying to upgrade to Dana 60s. I just go for the '60s personally then you can run 40s in no time.

I get the EcoDiesel with the tow package has Dana 44s front and rear, but I myself even if I had the 3.6 l wouldn't upgrade my axles unless I was going with d60s.

Personal preference I guess.

 

[Old Jeeper]

I tried to do a little research on this but couldn’t find much and looking for someone with similar trail usages recommendation.

Currently have 18’ JL sport, original owner ordered it barebones which I like, this jeep has the 2.0 w etorque.

Current setup:

3.5” Clayton Premium Lift
Winch, good aux lighting, led headlight upgrade, s-pod switching and lots of very utilitarian updates which makes this thing fairly capable stock.

I’m running 37x12.5 KM3s with the tazer mini for gearing tire Size etc.

This thing drives good on the road with what I’m assuming are stock gears, I run some fairly mild trails right now but would like to hit places like Jericho, and rausch creek without fear of axle failure 5 hours from home.

I’ve found some 2022 JLUR take offs still loaded with brakes, steering etc. the asking price is 5, so I’m hoping there is some negotiation. I know that’s a set of mopar brand new, but these being loaded seems like a decent value 4800~

Still not a small investment for a “toy”, but it seems like if these things can stand some fairly mild wheeling and give me peace of mind while in the woods with family might be worth it!

Im mechanical and would do the swap myself, probably just wire the e lockers into the s-pod which would eliminate some of the issues with the stock locker sensors.

any input appreciated, don’t see myself ever wanting to spend 10k+ or go bigger than 37s. Also judging by the way it drives with the 3.45s I probably won’t ever re-gear them. My o biggest concern is if I do it I’ll want to spend another 2 and get the 241OR. Then my base-con will be complete.

I would certainly do a 100 F/R swap with Rubicon goods. Gives you 4:10s and lockers.

As for the 4:1 241, that would depend upon what kind of wheeling you do.? I have done very little mud/sand but what little I have done, lower gears in the transfer case did not help over the ratio in high. Where the 4:1 comes into play is in the rock which is going UP HILL a LOT, so you need 4 low to get up there and to slow you on the downhill side.

$5k is a decent deal, I sold my for $5k when I went with Dynatrac Pro Rocks.

 

[JLanesey]

I personally have never understood this myself. In the Jeep world the king of kings is the tons. One ton axles. It's like you upgrade to Dana 44s and next thing you know couple years down the road you're trying to upgrade to Dana 60s. I just go for the '60s personally then you can run 40s in no time.

I get the EcoDiesel with the tow package has Dana 44s front and rear, but I myself even if I had the 3.6 l wouldn't upgrade my axles unless I was going with d60s.

Personal preference I guess.

I would have loved to gone 60s but with the UD44 up front and M220 In the rear it should be pretty stout. I was running 37s “gently” on the Dana 30 / 35. I wouldn’t fear running 40s on the 44s “gently”. With the two door and 2.0 the power isn’t going to overwhelm the drivetrain.

realistically my next tires will be 39” KM3 which are closer to a true 37 anyways.

With two youngsters I couldn’t justify spending 20k on axles then needing new rims tires etc.

Down the road if I ever get a crawler hauler and a tow rig that will be more appealing to me.

 

[fat_head]

I personally have never understood this myself. In the Jeep world the king of kings is the tons. One ton axles. It's like you upgrade to Dana 44s and next thing you know couple years down the road you're trying to upgrade to Dana 60s. I just go for the '60s personally then you can run 40s in no time.

I get the EcoDiesel with the tow package has Dana 44s front and rear, but I myself even if I had the 3.6 l wouldn't upgrade my axles unless I was going with d60s.

Personal preference I guess.

The price difference is SUBSTANTIAL between new d44s and 1 tons. Another thing to consider is wheeling style. Is the OP going to be full throttle rock bouncing? Probably shoulda got tons. Literally any trail in Moab? d44 (m210/m220) and 37's is good enough.

 

[JLanesey]

The price difference is SUBSTANTIAL between new d44s and 1 tons. Another thing to consider is wheeling style. Is the OP going to be full throttle rock bouncing? Probably shoulda got tons. Literally any trail in Moab? d44 (m210/m220) and 37's is good enough.

In my home state “CT” off road recreation is just about non existent, I try to always “tread lightly” and drive smart. I figured if a stock rubi can do the rubicon trail, my jeep will be good enough to do just about anything on the east coast. I don’t plan on doing buggy lines etc.

 

[WontonJLUR]

I would have loved to gone 60s but with the UD44 up front and M220 In the rear it should be pretty stout. I was running 37s “gently” on the Dana 30 / 35. I wouldn’t fear running 40s on the 44s “gently”. With the two door and 2.0 the power isn’t going to overwhelm the drivetrain.

realistically my next tires will be 39” KM3 which are closer to a true 37 anyways.

With two youngsters I couldn’t justify spending 20k on axles then needing new rims tires etc.

Down the road if I ever get a crawler hauler and a tow rig that will be more appealing to me.

i don't think you're on the wrong track at all. I've wheeled the piss out of the stock Rubi axles with zero upgrades to them, on 37s and 39 KM3s and they've been issue free for 50k miles.

20k really is just the axles, it can easily get over 10k for the rest of the stuff that you will need in order to fully complete the transition.

 

[JLanesey]

i don't think you're on the wrong track at all. I've wheeled the piss out of the stock Rubi axles with zero upgrades to them, on 37s and 39 KM3s and they've been issue free for 50k miles.

20k really is just the axles, it can easily get over 10k for the rest of the stuff that you will need in order to fully complete the transition.

Plus whatever the cost of a divorce haha!!

Hearing how well the stock rubis have been handling 37+ gave me good confidence in ordering the UD44. Honestly if the M210 was available I’d probably be welding a truss right now, it made it an easy decision to pucker up for the UD44 though. Seeing those piles of broken FADs scared me.

 

[CaJLMetalHead]

Plus whatever the cost of a divorce haha!!

Hearing how well the stock rubis have been handling 37+ gave me good confidence in ordering the UD44. Honestly if the M210 was available I’d probably be welding a truss right now, it made it an easy decision to pucker up for the UD44 though. Seeing those piles of broken FADs scared me.

I run heavy 40 inch tires on stock D44 axles... I had the front one trussed (only because I welded it myself.. I won't spend money on stock axles.. I much rather save that money and get 1 tons)... I was able to tackle a bunch of quite difficult trails, including Rubicon Trail twice, and other tough trails with no issues... however, It is hard on the axles and components... going 1 tons is a $30K adventure (add $$$$ for divorce LMAO)

 

[WontonJLUR]

Plus whatever the cost of a divorce haha!!

Hearing how well the stock rubis have been handling 37+ gave me good confidence in ordering the UD44. Honestly if the M210 was available I’d probably be welding a truss right now, it made it an easy decision to pucker up for the UD44 though. Seeing those piles of broken FADs scared me.

I'm fortunate to have a spouse that supports the completely nonsensical cost of tons for the Jeep, and she's even gonna help with the install after deployment!

I think going the UD44 route or PR44 route is the right call over the stock axle, if you're upgrading a sport. I think it's probably a bit lucky that I haven't had any issues with the stock front axle/FAD, but I also wheel with an understanding of what my limitations are and don't put myself in spots where those things are even more susceptible.

 

[Some Random Guy]

I personally have never understood this myself. In the Jeep world the king of kings is the tons. One ton axles. It's like you upgrade to Dana 44s and next thing you know couple years down the road you're trying to upgrade to Dana 60s. I just go for the '60s personally then you can run 40s in no time.

I get the EcoDiesel with the tow package has Dana 44s front and rear, but I myself even if I had the 3.6 l wouldn't upgrade my axles unless I was going with d60s.

Personal preference I guess.

If money were no object.
Personally the UD44 is plenty up front. However, I am doing a semi-float rear swap. Going all in on one-tons is quite the investment because almost everything has to be done at once and suddenly you’re out over $20k (over half the cost of my Jeep OTD from the dealer). I can’t throw around that kind of money in one shot without impacting my other budget lines severely. But a few k here, a few k there spread out over a couple years is more feasible (and palatable).
Maybe when I retire I’ll convert to full floats. That first check usually has a pile of backpay!

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