Routing Power Through Your Manual Transmission JL Firewall

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me109stock

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I found many bundles of wires but none have a free end.

I think I need a break. Getting frustrated.
They are all terminated with shrink tube.
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I found many bundles of wires but none have a free end.

I think I need a break. Getting frustrated.
Keep up the good fight Doc! Don't get discouraged - they are there if you have the factory AUX kit. You probably just haven't smacked your head enough yet...
 

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Doc... Duh.
Keep up the good fight Doc! Don't get discouraged - they are there if you have the factory AUX kit. You probably just haven't smacked your head enough yet...
Thanks. I’ve been up since 2am and I didn’t realize how tired I am. Taking a break. Maybe hit it tomorrow.

I’m not sure they will work though. I didn’t see a negative wire for them.
 
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Thanks. I’ve been up since 2am and I didn’t realize how tired I am. Taking a break. Maybe hit it tomorrow.

I’m not sure they will work though. I didn’t see a negative wire for them.
You can attach the ground to any unpainted connection under the dash.
 

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Doc... Duh.
You can attach the ground to any unpainted connection under the dash.
I’ll have a red hot and a black negative. Not sure what I’m gonna do with said negative.
 
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I’ll have a red hot and a black negative. Not sure what I’m gonna do with said negative.
I will assume that since you are going to use your AUX Power HOT wire that you will butt splice the RSE Hot Wire to the AUX Batter RED. I would cut the wires after the fuse block and keep the RSE Fuse Block in the circuit (just my recommendation - I think it is 20A if I recall correctly).
For the BLACK lead, you can attach the loop connector to any screw post on the dash (see the RSE Instructions for the ground connection of the toggle switch - same thing). There is also a grounding post (so I've read) behind the passenger side kick panel where you will be accessing the AUX wires (when you find them) that you can attach the RSE BLACK lead, or you can cut the lead and attach your own loop connector. I use crimp connectors with heat shrink covers so everything is water tight, and the heat shrink also helps secure the connection.

Feel free to PM me if you are still having trouble.
 

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That pic above is what I was trying to reference. Thanks whoever posted! I do have pics of the bundle in my thread. Might help out. They are not loose: they are all wrapped in the factory tape, even the ends. Mine were doubled back over, against the firewall, with the end towards the center. Hope that helps.
 
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That pic above is what I was trying to reference. Thanks whoever posted! I do have pics of the bundle in my thread. Might help out. They are not loose: they are all wrapped in the factory tape, even the ends. Mine were doubled back over, against the firewall, with the end towards the center. Hope that helps.
Good info! Jeep does hide them well!
 

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Doc... Duh.
Thanks all. I think I was tired and just got super frustrated. Taking the night off and in the am will remove the kick panel and keep digging.
 

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Another option that everyone’s suggestions made me think of was running the line out the driver drain plug and up the firewall.

I think I’ll test it.

first I’ll find the interior aux wires.
Hot to hot and black to ground. If it works. Done.
If it doesn’t then I’ll run the power line out my drain plug and up the backside of the firewall.

the rear passenger plug had to go out the drain plug as the small grommet further outboard wouldn’t fit the plugs.

some rest and food and the ideas be a flowing.
 

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Oh my god I found them. Sweet baby Jesus.

they were behind the glovebox and doubled back so the tips were actually behind the center console. Whole thing wrapped with electrical tape to another bundle.

you’d think they could use some pink tape or something to make these easy to find. Oh my sweet Jesus.

back in business. Lol.
 
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Oh my god I found them. Sweet baby Jesus.

they were behind the glovebox and doubled back so the tips were actually behind the center console. Whole thing wrapped with electrical tape to another bundle.

you’d think they could use some pink tape or something to make these easy to find. Oh my sweet Jesus.

back in business. Lol.
Sounds like the location has changed for the newer models. My pics and prior information are for 2018 for sure and possibly 2019 models.
If you could snap and post a picture I'm sure others would be thankful!
Glad it's working out for you Doc!
 

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Full report to follow. Busy day getting everything finished. But she’s done.
 

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Reviving this thread to add another way to route wire.

So I posted a question regarding drilling through the A-Pillar today. Lots of views, no comments or answers regarding whether it would work or if it would compromise structural integrity. I had read another's post on the JT section who had wondered the same thing. He ended up routing his RF up the A-Pillar to his ceiling mounted comms. So he never got an answer on it either.

I hated the idea of drilling into the A-Pillar or even the firewall, so I went out to the garage today to figure out a better way. I think I found a good alternative. I completed it today and it really came out nice.

Here is what I did. I removed the windshield wipers and the side cowl piece above the fender. Then I lowered the windshield. This exposed the dash and the small gap that exists between it, the A-Pillar, and the top of the firewall. Plenty of room to pull wire through. I was installing the MLC-6 Lower switch assembly. Normally I would have removed the wires from the plug and re-assembled after pulling, but all of my electrical tools are still enroute with the moving company and I wanted to get this done. So I ran nylon fish tape (harbor freight) down through the gap and it popped out around the clutch pedal.

Now you can avoid the hassle I went through by doing the opposite of what I did next. I realized a little too late that I should have pulled the small end up and through to the upper dash gap, but I ended up pulling that larger plug down through everything. Stupid I know, but I was rushing myself and not thinking it through. It was challenging in a couple of spots, but even the big plug end made it though. To start the plug/wire, I had to use a prybar to increase the gap enough for it to pop through. This worked flawlessly with no damage. At another point I had to remove the vent that blows heat on the side window and mash the inner vent to get the plug around it. It forms right back when your done. You just have to push it back into shape. After that, it was pretty easy. All of this would have been much easier if I were just pulling wire without a plug on the end of it.

I'm attaching some pics that should give you an idea of what I have been describing. I don't know how to do captions like others have done in their posts. But the pics will be in the order I did it. Hope it helps a brother out. Super easy if you're just running straight wire without a plug on it. And no drilling required.

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@Notams - NICE! I like that option better than how I ran my wires. Very clean!
 
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