Rough Country Lifts

[word302]

So to summarize your issues with the Dynatrac are the fact that they say you don't need geometry correction (you do) and that at the price point it should come with adjustable trackbars and caster correction. Sounds reasonable to me.

That MC kit is compelling at that price point.....I wish that they would recommend shocks (that aren't Rock Sport). Straying off topic slightly, but I have zero desire for more than 2" and I see people getting 4" out of the 2.5" on their JLUR. I wish more companies would release smaller, but complete, lifts with high quality shocks.

The problem is most lifts are based on starting out with a Rubicon. If you have a Sport or Sahara you will see significantly more lift unless you are doing spacers. Rock Krawler has lifts that are specific to the Rubicon or Sport/Sahara to alleviate most of this problem (the springs and shock lengths are different depending on what model you have).

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[word302]

Anyone who tells you rough country is crap doesn’t know what they are talking about. Look at these threads and choose for yourself. All these people can’t be lying.

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...5-inch-spacer-lift-on-jlur-any-regrets.52216/

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/rough-country-2-5-lift-pics-reviews.6836/

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/rubicon-express-or-rough-country-jl-lift-kit.6521/

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/spacer-lift-for-jlur.32102/

Make up your own mind. Just cause someone doesn’t like a certain product doesn’t mean it’s bad. Do your research.

You do realize that @rustyshakelford does this for a living? He's not just claiming bias based on what he owns like most here. He's driven rigs with most of these lifts installed. He definitely knows what he's talking about.

 

[blnewt]

@Boone
Since all you're really wanting is the ability to do mild off-roading on 35s without rubbing, just run some 1" spacers and some quality shocks like those from Fox. Should be a simple install and an improved ride without having to bust any budget.

 

[Boone]

Thanks for all the advice. Apparently I need to do more navigating on this site before making a thread. I tried searching for rough country in the search bar but didn’t have much luck.

 

[rustyshakelford]

Anyone who tells you rough country is crap doesn’t know what they are talking about. Look at these threads and choose for yourself. All these people can’t be lying.

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...5-inch-spacer-lift-on-jlur-any-regrets.52216/

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/rough-country-2-5-lift-pics-reviews.6836/

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/rubicon-express-or-rough-country-jl-lift-kit.6521/

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/spacer-lift-for-jlur.32102/

Make up your own mind. Just cause someone doesn’t like a certain product doesn’t mean it’s bad. Do your research.

Not being bad doesn't mean that it’s good.

Theres tons of folks that are happy with RC. More times than not, they haven’t much experience with the higher end products. I used to not be a shock snob until I have seen over and over and over what a difference it makes. My wife’s JL has custom Radflo 2.5” resi shocks. About 2k worth of shocks. Does it ride night and day different on the street than the $276 MC rocksports? No, I wouldn’t say so but when you wheel it and do high speed wash out driving it’s amazing the difference in the ride and control. Absolutely worth the money but our customers and myself have exacting standards and requirements.

brett

 

[rustyshakelford]

So to summarize your issues with the Dynatrac are the fact that they say you don't need geometry correction (you do) and that at the price point it should come with adjustable trackbars and caster correction. Sounds reasonable to me.

That MC kit is compelling at that price point.....I wish that they would recommend shocks (that aren't Rock Sport). Straying off topic slightly, but I have zero desire for more than 2" and I see people getting 4" out of the 2.5" on their JLUR. I wish more companies would release smaller, but complete, lifts with high quality shocks.

the rocksports arent bad (again same logic aren’t the best but at the price point they can’t be beat)

You pretty much nailed my dislike for that particular lift. It’s incomplete and don’t understand why it costs so much for so little.

I want everyone that’s reading this to fully understand I don’t make a cent from MC from anyone buying their lifts on here. I answer on average 5-10 PM a week just on lifts not including folks that are having issues with DW, alignment specs etc. my motivation is preaching the benefits of Mc and RK are that they will seriously improve the ride and handing of your Jeep. We spend a ton on these and I want each and every one of y’all to have a positive experience when they select a lift. Having to fix brand new jeeps with subpar lifts bothers me and I loose a ton of money because I can’t in clear conscience be apart of double charging folks.

Brett

 

[MalteeseJLU]

I had a JKU Sport with a RC lift I bought it used from a reputable dealer and it was a fun Jeep but damn it was rough, like I was literally trying to break in a Stallion every time I drove it. When I test drove the JLUR while I was getting the airbag recall fixed my mind was BLOWN, I was actually mad how bad the jk rode so I traded it in right then. I know there are many factors involved but I won't go RC when I lift this one its "Rough" for a reason.

 

[Wabujitsu]

To give the OP an idea of what a quality suspension lift costs, I spent $2400 on parts and labor for my JKS 3.5” lift. As I have a Sport, it worked out to be over 4” of lift, which I am totally good with.

Some here will probably say I spent too much on the lift, but I am completely satisfied. Part of what I pay for with my mechanic is his vast experience, skill, and he genuinely cares about his customers. Screwing up a suspension install could result in a fatal accident. I totally trust my mechanic. https://www.upright4x4.com/

 

[Spank]

To give the OP an idea of what a quality suspension lift costs, I spent $2400 on parts and labor for my JKS 3.5” lift. As I have a Sport, it worked out to be over 4” of lift, which I am totally good with.

Nah. You got a kit that'll probably outlast the Jeep. And at the end of the day, that's really what you want.

I've always argued the following price for quality/part equation for lift kits when it comes to the Wrangler. And no, there is absolutely no science to this.

Lift Kit Cost	What to Expect
$1,000 or less	Garbage: Congratulations on your cute lift kit that you'll most likely replace in a year.
$1,000 - $2,000	Decent: This kit should replace key components and get the job done.
$2,000 - $3,000	Excellent: This kit should replace everything that matters.
$3,000+	You Complete Me: There should be zero trace of the original suspension.

 

[Wabujitsu]

Nah. You got a kit that'll probably outlast the Jeep. And at the end of the day, that's really what you want.

I've always argued the following price for quality/part equation for lift kits when it comes to the Wrangler. And no, there is absolutely no science to this.

Lift Kit Cost	What to Expect
$1,000 or less	Garbage: Congratulations on your cute lift kit that you'll most likely replace in a year.
$1,000 - $2,000	Decent: This kit should replace key components and get the job done.
$2,000 - $3,000	Excellent: This kit should replace everything that matters.
$3,000+	You Complete Me: There should be zero trace of the original suspension.

Awesome! On top of that, the shop only charged me their cost for the kit (he showed me on the invoice what he paid for it). Labor is all that he charged - about four bills.

 

[jessedacri]

What

the rocksports arent bad (again same logic aren’t the best but at the price point they can’t be beat)

You pretty much nailed my dislike for that particular lift. It’s incomplete and don’t understand why it costs so much for so little.

I want everyone that’s reading this to fully understand I don’t make a cent from MC from anyone buying their lifts on here. I answer on average 5-10 PM a week just on lifts not including folks that are having issues with DW, alignment specs etc. my motivation is preaching the benefits of Mc and RK are that they will seriously improve the ride and handing of your Jeep. We spend a ton on these and I want each and every one of y’all to have a positive experience when they select a lift. Having to fix brand new jeeps with subpar lifts bothers me and I loose a ton of money because I can’t in clear conscience be apart of double charging folks.

Brett

So if I want a proper lift and am cringing at the MC 2.5 gamechanger + shocks + driveshaft all-in cost, what do I lose in terms of crawl performance / handling by going with the MC true dual kit and is it more expensive to complete the setup later on?

I've been bouncing between RK and MC or just going Mopar or AEV but I wheel a lot so I feel like I should be at least jumping over the simpler lifts to start.

 

[word302]

What



So if I want a proper lift and am cringing at the MC 2.5 gamechanger + shocks + driveshaft all-in cost, what do I lose in terms of crawl performance / handling by going with the MC true dual kit and is it more expensive to complete the setup later on?

I've been bouncing between RK and MC or just going Mopar or AEV but I wheel a lot so I feel like I should be at least jumping over the simpler lifts to start.

If you’re going to wheel stick with your gut and get MC or RK. You won’t be disappointed.

 

[rustyshakelford]

What



So if I want a proper lift and am cringing at the MC 2.5 gamechanger + shocks + driveshaft all-in cost, what do I lose in terms of crawl performance / handling by going with the MC true dual kit and is it more expensive to complete the setup later on?

I've been bouncing between RK and MC or just going Mopar or AEV but I wheel a lot so I feel like I should be at least jumping over the simpler lifts to start.

I hope I don’t sound like if you don’t get MC or RK it’s junk. We’ve just had tremendous success and extremely happy customers and I’ve had to fix a lot of the others because they don’t address the lift how I would consider correctly.

the biggest thing you’re loosing is adjustability and a little Misalignment correction. the true dual only replaces the UCA to correct caster the wheel will be a little back in the wheel well. With the GC you can move the axle a little forward to correct that and also fine tune the rear driveshaft angle.

the joints on the GC allow for more movement as well over the stock. However, down the road, when you’re ready it’s easy to add the other 6 arms

brett

 

[jessedacri]

I hope I don’t sound like if you don’t get MC or RK it’s junk. We’ve just had tremendous success and extremely happy customers and I’ve had to fix a lot of the others because they don’t address the lift how I would consider correctly.

the biggest thing you’re loosing is adjustability and a little Misalignment correction. the true dual only replaces the UCA to correct caster the wheel will be a little back in the wheel well. With the GC you can move the axle a little forward to correct that and also fine tune the rear driveshaft angle.

the joints on the GC allow for more movement as well over the stock. However, down the road, when you’re ready it’s easy to add the other 6 arms

brett

Not at all, I've been learning a lot in the research process and you're far from the only source saying RK or MC at the top end. Seems all shops that work on tons of rigs or have extensive wheeling experience go a similar direction, and it makes sense as to why. Us folks who do it just once on their own Jeeps very greatly appreciate the advice and experience!

Do you recommend anything else to go with a True Dual 2.5 on a 2dr Rubicon? Front driveshaft recommended it seems, but am I cool to stay with stock steering components if I currently have no issues with them? I'm weary of putting a heavier wheel/tire combo and relying on the not-so-tough-looking stock drag link and tie rod, but at the same time I'm trying to get some control over the runaway costs of a wheeling friendly lift and tires setup. As for future GC conversion, front LCAs would be the first buy?

And the age old question, will I regret going 35s over 37s? I figure a 2 door may be more dialed in as a light use DD/heavy weekend wheeler with 35s and will go a little easier on the components, but so hard to shake the appeal of 37s.

 

[rustyshakelford]

Not at all, I've been learning a lot in the research process and you're far from the only source saying RK or MC at the top end. Seems all shops that work on tons of rigs or have extensive wheeling experience go a similar direction, and it makes sense as to why. Us folks who do it just once on their own Jeeps very greatly appreciate the advice and experience!

Do you recommend anything else to go with a True Dual 2.5 on a 2dr Rubicon? Front driveshaft recommended it seems, but am I cool to stay with stock steering components if I currently have no issues with them? I'm weary of putting a heavier wheel/tire combo and relying on the not-so-tough-looking stock drag link and tie rod, but at the same time I'm trying to get some control over the runaway costs of a wheeling friendly lift and tires setup. As for future GC conversion, front LCAs would be the first buy?

And the age old question, will I regret going 35s over 37s? I figure a 2 door may be more dialed in as a light use DD/heavy weekend wheeler with 35s and will go a little easier on the components, but so hard to shake the appeal of 37s.

On a 2.5” lift the 35s look fine to me and that leaves you plenty of room for clearance. Front driveshaft is certainly something I suggest, it’s not like your factory one will just up and fail immediately but it will get damaged and seems to be one of those things that gets over looked and then fails at the worst time.

LCA would be excellent to add as well. It will allow you to move the axle forward a hair for better alignment. Until then UCA are fine. As for the steering, I’ll never talk someone’s out of upgrading it. That said, I completely understand the spiraling cost. Once you get hard cost on everything, then decide if it’s in the budget for this round of mods!

Brett

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