bohnster
Well-Known Member
- First Name
- Brad
- Joined
- Oct 4, 2021
- Threads
- 3
- Messages
- 147
- Reaction score
- 348
- Location
- Franklin, TN
- Vehicle(s)
- 2021 JLU Sahara Altitude GCM
- Occupation
- Bourbon Taster
- Thread starter
- #1
I bought a set of the white Oracle 4 Pack Rock Lights and installed them as courtesy lights this weekend. Here are a few pics, comments, and lessons learned. It's a fairly simple mod for the hard core operators on this forum, but I know there are a few other folks interested in this mod, so hopefully this helps.
Oracle Lights
Note that this 4-pack does not come with a remote, just the lights and the connector harness. I also bought one of their extension cords for the light that was going to be the farthest away from the connector but didn't need it based on where I decided to locate the harness. The only other things you might need if you don't have them on hand is additional 20-22 gauge wire and wiring connectors.
I used self-tapping screws to attach the rock lights to the underbody of the Sahara sliders. The plastic is thick and sturdy enough that the screws will hold; the lights feel solidly attached. Another option would be to drill multiple holes and use zip ties if you can fish hook the zip ties through the holes.
The lights come with a mounting base that allows the wire to exit in several locations. I then ran the wiring for each light to the frame and snaked the wires with a coat hanger. Where the wires came together, I zip-tied them and ran them together. The cross brace on the frame underbody is hollow, so the wires can go through there.
First lesson learned: I initially picked the passenger side as the entry side into the cabin and ran the wires in that direction. Bad choice. It is far easier to access the interior from the driver side due to the obstruction on the passenger side from the battery and PDC. I just assumed the grommet on the passenger side was an easy get. Nope. And then I read a bunch of posts about folks cutting other wires while trying to punch through the passenger side, so I checked the other side. Holy cow. It's wide open.
It only took a few minutes to cut my zip ties and run the wires in the other direction. I eliminated the need for the extension cord by deciding to stash the wires and the connector bundle inside the frame then run just a single wire through the grommet inside the cabin. The connectors have gaskets so they should remain relatively water tight.
I connected the wires to the harness then connected the bare ended red & black wires from the harness to my extra wire then bundled everything up with zip ties tightly and zip tied that rat's nest to the frame. I then ran the single wire behind the fender (no need to pop any rivets off) up to the grommet. My grommet wouldn't turn; I just had to snap it out. I drilled a hole through the middle of the grommet big enough for the wire then pushed it through and replaced the grommet. The grommet did turn and seat when going back in. Here's a pic of the wire running through the grommet:
Second lesson learned: It would have been easier if I had stripped the wire before running it into the footwell. Stripping wires in the footwell is a PITA.
Once I was in the footwell, I was home free right? Nope. It's a pain to work in there especially with wiring. I disconnected the footwell light connector from the light and carefully peeled back the cloth tape. The yellow wire with the brown stripe is the courtesy wire. The purple wire is the ground wire. I elected to use the ground wire rather than attaching to the frame because it was just easier and in the same location.
Third lesson learned: I knew this already but tried it anyway. T-Taps rarely, if ever, work, and if they do, they just chew up the wire. I tried several times to tap the wire but couldn't get a connection. I pulled the taps off, cut the wires, and used butt splice connectors instead. Yes, I cut the factory wires. I'm sure that has just voided my entire warranty.
And now taped back up and plugged back in:
I'm not much of an artist when it comes to wiring and taping but that's OK. Once I got everything back in place, it worked! A FoB click or door open now gives me courtesy lighting under the sliders:
Oracle Lights
Note that this 4-pack does not come with a remote, just the lights and the connector harness. I also bought one of their extension cords for the light that was going to be the farthest away from the connector but didn't need it based on where I decided to locate the harness. The only other things you might need if you don't have them on hand is additional 20-22 gauge wire and wiring connectors.
I used self-tapping screws to attach the rock lights to the underbody of the Sahara sliders. The plastic is thick and sturdy enough that the screws will hold; the lights feel solidly attached. Another option would be to drill multiple holes and use zip ties if you can fish hook the zip ties through the holes.
The lights come with a mounting base that allows the wire to exit in several locations. I then ran the wiring for each light to the frame and snaked the wires with a coat hanger. Where the wires came together, I zip-tied them and ran them together. The cross brace on the frame underbody is hollow, so the wires can go through there.
First lesson learned: I initially picked the passenger side as the entry side into the cabin and ran the wires in that direction. Bad choice. It is far easier to access the interior from the driver side due to the obstruction on the passenger side from the battery and PDC. I just assumed the grommet on the passenger side was an easy get. Nope. And then I read a bunch of posts about folks cutting other wires while trying to punch through the passenger side, so I checked the other side. Holy cow. It's wide open.
It only took a few minutes to cut my zip ties and run the wires in the other direction. I eliminated the need for the extension cord by deciding to stash the wires and the connector bundle inside the frame then run just a single wire through the grommet inside the cabin. The connectors have gaskets so they should remain relatively water tight.
I connected the wires to the harness then connected the bare ended red & black wires from the harness to my extra wire then bundled everything up with zip ties tightly and zip tied that rat's nest to the frame. I then ran the single wire behind the fender (no need to pop any rivets off) up to the grommet. My grommet wouldn't turn; I just had to snap it out. I drilled a hole through the middle of the grommet big enough for the wire then pushed it through and replaced the grommet. The grommet did turn and seat when going back in. Here's a pic of the wire running through the grommet:
Second lesson learned: It would have been easier if I had stripped the wire before running it into the footwell. Stripping wires in the footwell is a PITA.
Once I was in the footwell, I was home free right? Nope. It's a pain to work in there especially with wiring. I disconnected the footwell light connector from the light and carefully peeled back the cloth tape. The yellow wire with the brown stripe is the courtesy wire. The purple wire is the ground wire. I elected to use the ground wire rather than attaching to the frame because it was just easier and in the same location.
Third lesson learned: I knew this already but tried it anyway. T-Taps rarely, if ever, work, and if they do, they just chew up the wire. I tried several times to tap the wire but couldn't get a connection. I pulled the taps off, cut the wires, and used butt splice connectors instead. Yes, I cut the factory wires. I'm sure that has just voided my entire warranty.
And now taped back up and plugged back in:
I'm not much of an artist when it comes to wiring and taping but that's OK. Once I got everything back in place, it worked! A FoB click or door open now gives me courtesy lighting under the sliders:
Sponsored