Rock Krawler Springs w/ MOPAR Lift?

Yondu_JLU

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So I recently installed a set of RK correction pads on my JL in hopes of eliminating the inherent spring bow on the MOPAR lift. Seemed to do the trick for a while but now-a few weeks later- the springs have the same (if not worse) bowing than before. I'm thinking this is an issue with the springs themselves....so would a set of RK 2.5 Springs for both the front and the rear be a good alternative?





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Yondu_JLU

Yondu_JLU

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Do you have any pics? Are they both bowing or just the passenger side?
I don't have any photos atm, but I can take a couple in the morning. Both sides are bowing; I have adjustable trackbars and the axles are centered in both the front and rear. My main concerns are:

The amount of bowing (bowing away from the frame excessively on both sides).
The distance between the spring and the sway bar link is too close for my liking....I'm afraid it will rub when suspension is under stress on trails.

I've also heard that triple rate coils are less prone to bowing....it appears they have significantly less spacing between windings when compared to the MOPAR coils.
 

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I don't have any photos atm, but I can take a couple in the morning. Both sides are bowing; I have adjustable trackbars and the axles are centered in both the front and rear. My main concerns are:

The amount of bowing (bowing away from the frame excessively on both sides).
The distance between the spring and the sway bar link is too close for my liking....I'm afraid it will rub when suspension is under stress on trails.

I've also heard that triple rate coils are less prone to bowing....it appears they have significantly less spacing between windings when compared to the MOPAR coils.
RK coils will work, I’m running the 3.5” and they’re working great. Are you sure your upper isolator haven’t turned. They’re tapered and need to be indexed in the right location, they have two nipples that go in the slots in the housing. You should be able to feel them sticking through.
 
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Yondu_JLU

Yondu_JLU

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RK coils will work, I’m running the 3.5” and they’re working great. Are you sure your upper isolator haven’t turned. They’re tapered and need to be indexed in the right location, they have two nipples that go in the slots in the housing. You should be able to feel them sticking through.
I had a professional shop install the correction pads and recheck my suspension geometry....so I was under the impression they had corrected anything that was improperly installed or out of spec. The rears should be indexed properly, I made sure the single nipple was seated correctly during the initial install, which I did myself. Where on the front housing should I see the two nipples?

Also-in your opinion-would the 2.5 be suitable for my 35s or should I go up to the 3.5?
 

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I had a professional shop install the correction pads and recheck my suspension geometry....so I was under the impression they had corrected anything that was improperly installed or out of spec. The rears should be indexed properly, I made sure the single nipple was seated correctly during the initial install, which I did myself. Where on the front housing should I see the two nipples?

Also-in your opinion-would the 2.5 be suitable for my 35s or should I go up to the 3.5?
On top of the spring housing towards the engine, you might have to push the plastic inner fender back a little to feel one of them.

I think 2.5s will work best for 35s also for your shocks.
 
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Yondu_JLU

Yondu_JLU

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On top of the spring housing towards the engine, you might have to push the plastic inner fender back a little to feel one of them.

I think 2.5s will work best for 35s also for your shocks.
Just checked and there is nothing sticking through what appears to be the seat for the nipple! Happen to have a gladiator parked in the driveway too and checked for comparison's sake. It has a fairly long plastic bit or "nipple" sticking through the top of the housing.
 
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Yondu_JLU

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Yeah, you might jack it up and droop the axle and spin them around until they’re sticking through the holes , see if that helps.

Also , the RK isolators are not left and right like the oem isolators. That’s why I asked earlier if the passenger side was the only one bowing. The drivers side, the rk perch is same as oem, and since the passenger spring is indexed the same as driver side you might have to cut the nipples and rotate the upper isolator 180 degrees so it will be seated correctly.
Definitely will when I get a chance.....I'll update as I get around to doing things/ when I see improvements. Appreciate the help!
 

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