Rock Krawler maintenance & All brands suspension general conversation

[Roky]

New addition to the garage……. I never owned a floor jack with a better paint job than on my Jeep… …I don’t know if I should use it or take it to a car show….

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[hoag4147]

New addition to the garage……. I never owned a floor jack with a better paint job than on my Jeep… …I don’t know if I should use it or take it to a car show….

That is definitely a great looking paint color lol

 

[Moto_21]

Ferrari jack, should lift it in half the time

 

[MSparks909]

Hey all, waiting on a call back from Metalcloak but figured I’d post it here too. Doing some fine tuning on a 3.5” Game Changer on my 392 XR. Noticed the driver’s coil rubbing on the bump stop tube the frame itself. I could visibly see and verified that the axle was 1/4” shifted towards the passenger side. Shortened the track bar 1/8” to keep it all square and the tires are now lined up under the Jeep properly but my inward coil bow problem persists. The passenger’s side coil has a slight bow inward towards the bump stop tube, but the driver’s side is noticeably worse. It’s barely off the bump stop tube and has a noticeable bow near the bottom of the spring. It is also very close to the frame at the top 1/3 of the spring.

I am using the Metalcloak Coil Isolators and their Front Coil Correction Pads.

Upper Geometry Measurements:

Front Uppers - 20”
Front Lowers - 24 3/8”
Front Track Bar - 34 1/8”

Triple checked the measurements with a tape measurer. Next step is to yank it all down again and check isolator position I guess. Any tips are appreciated!

Front Passenger Coil:

Front Driver’s Coil:

Frame Rub:

 

[MSparks909]

Alright so apparently the fix is to re-install the factory driver’s side coil pad. Just got off the phone with Metalcloak. Per MC, some Jeeps need both pads, some need one and some need none. It’s a case by case basis essentially. So to anyone installing the MC lift or considering it, buy the $30 correction pads because you may end up needing one or both. Or maybe you’ll get lucky and need none…wish that would have been in the instructions If I have time tonight I’ll head back to the shop to yank the front end apart for the 3rd time

 

[Roky]

Alright so apparently the fix is to re-install the factory driver’s side coil pad. Just got off the phone with Metalcloak. Per MC, some Jeeps need both pads, some need one and some need none. It’s a case by case basis essentially. So to anyone installing the MC lift or considering it, buy the $30 correction pads because you may end up needing one or both. Or maybe you’ll get lucky and need none…wish that would have been in the instructions If I have time tonight I’ll head back to the shop to yank the front end apart for the 3rd time

Is that kit specifically for the 392 ? Or does MC use the same kit as the 3.6 ?

 

[MSparks909]

Is that kit specifically for the 392 ? Or does MC use the same kit as the 3.6 ?

This kit is specific to the 392 but the coil correction pad fix is applicable to all Jeeps running MC lifts apparently. Wish that tidbit would have been in the instructions. My recommendation to anyone installing a MC lift on their Jeep is to install the lift first on the stock coil pads. If you have a gnarly spring bow on one or both springs then yank it back apart and replace the coil pad on the side(s) causing spring bow with the MC pad(s).

 

[Roky]

Hey all, waiting on a call back from Metalcloak but figured I’d post it here too. Doing some fine tuning on a 3.5” Game Changer on my 392 XR. Noticed the driver’s coil rubbing on the bump stop tube the frame itself. I could visibly see and verified that the axle was 1/4” shifted towards the passenger side. Shortened the track bar 1/8” to keep it all square and the tires are now lined up under the Jeep properly but my inward coil bow problem persists. The passenger’s side coil has a slight bow inward towards the bump stop tube, but the driver’s side is noticeably worse. It’s barely off the bump stop tube and has a noticeable bow near the bottom of the spring. It is also very close to the frame at the top 1/3 of the spring.

I am using the Metalcloak Coil Isolators and their Front Coil Correction Pads.

Upper Geometry Measurements:

Front Uppers - 20”
Front Lowers - 24 3/8”
Front Track Bar - 34 1/8”

Triple checked the measurements with a tape measurer. Next step is to yank it all down again and check isolator position I guess. Any tips are appreciated!

Front Passenger Coil:

Front Driver’s Coil:

Frame Rub:

The springs are gonna hit the frame when you stuff the wheel, that’s just the nature of the beast……….I put some stick on Velcro to deaden the blow, lol..

 

[MSparks909]

The springs are gonna hit the frame when you stuff the wheel, that’s just the nature of the beast……….I put some stick on Velcro to deaden the blow, lol..

I’m not too worried about that, but good to know. Mine is hitting at ride height. I’m heading to the shop tonight to yank the driver’s side down and get it swapped tonight. I’ll post if it fixes the problem

 

[hoag4147]

This kit is specific to the 392 but the coil correction pad fix is applicable to all Jeeps running MC lifts apparently. Wish that tidbit would have been in the instructions. My recommendation to anyone installing a MC lift on their Jeep is to install the lift first on the stock coil pads. If you have a gnarly spring bow on one or both springs then yank it back apart and replace the coil pad on the side(s) causing spring bow with the MC pad(s).

Sorry, don’t mean to be harsh on MC but if this is a specific 392 lift you would think they would know if needed or not . If they are saying all their kits could need or not is kinda strange. Who wants to put their lift all the way on and then have to pull back apart to exchange pads.

 

[MSparks909]

Sorry, don’t mean to be harsh on MC but if this is a specific 392 lift you would think they would know if needed or not . If they are saying all their kits could need or not is kinda strange. Who wants to put their lift all the way on and then have to pull back apart to exchange pads.

Agree 100%. It’s definitely annoying. Wish the instructions were more clear but hopefully someone here will learn from my experiences. I’m gonna post this in the MC lift thread as well.

 

[Yellow Cake Kid]

It is my impression that the problem has more to do with the positioning of the spring pedestals that are welded on the axles.

It's impossible for the lift manufacturers to know if your axle's robot was having a good or bad day, which leaves the lift kit installer with a need to check and adjust as necessary once the install nears completion.

Good luck.

 

[MSparks909]

Well, got it fixed. Yanked it apart and swapped the stock spring pad back in. So current setup is a Metalcloak passenger pad and a stock driver’s pad.

Before:

During:

After:

 

[Roky]

Had to go over downed tree, no choice, and a little branch took out my tie rod boot….. .

Cheap fix though, 5.00 for new boot…. I know how some feel about synergy, not a huge fan myself, but I have to give props when they’re warranted no matter what brand…. Took off tie tie rod to inspect boot, and the joint is still tight AF…….

Been waiting for it to fail but can’t kill it….. I’m not gonna change it out for no reason, so might be stuck with it for awhile………

 

[Roky]

Got my new boot from Poly, only 5.00 but 10.00 to ship it, . Still had grease in there, but that tree branch did a number on it.

I wish synergy would have put a hex in the top of the stud, I couldn’t slam it up hard enough to hold it, got big C clamp after it, that got it. Back in business, hopefully with less grease splattered all over my dust shield, RCVs are bad enough…. ……Oh…. and I know you guys a looking at my jack…..

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