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Roky

Roky

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I’m surprised you haven’t already sold and been contracted to install by one of the FL boys 👍🏻. You do know that is what’s going to happen right :)
Yeah…….. I’m talking with a local forum member that I installed Rubi takeoff plus 3/4” spacers on his sport last year. He’s now talking about taking the next step, so we’ll see. I haven’t advertised them yet, I’m not in a hurry to cut them loose. I’d rather they go to someone that’s going to use them off-road, I don’t want to condemn them to a pavement princess that never sees a dirt road……… 😁
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I don’t want to condemn them to a pavement princess that never sees a dirt road………
That’s exactly why I can’t buy them 😂. But they may need the rest from twisting and turning 😂
 
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Roky

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That’s exactly why I can’t buy them 😂. But they may need the rest from twisting and turning 😂
LMAO…….. nah, they’re in their prime :rock:, can’t kill em, if they did happen to bend or break, for one, they’d just send you new ones no questions asked, and secondly, you’d probably not have a Jeep left to put them on……..🤣 …. If you come across a totaled Jeep with RK arms on it , salvage them, they’re still good…….😂
 

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Jeep Wrangler JL Rock Krawler  maintenance & All brands suspension general  conversation EF2F94F9-18DB-4155-8B09-32841751109E


And yeah, I have to install them……😓
Damn I was gonna message you to see if you still had them! Great thread and thanks for all the info! Enjoy the install :)
 

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Damn I was gonna message you to see if you still had them! Great thread and thanks for all the info! Enjoy the install :)
Thanks brother, appreciate ya….. I’ll keep you in mind if it falls through, so far all I got is “ I’ll take em” , yeah… I can’t spend that….🤣
 

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Thanks brother, appreciate ya….. I’ll keep you in mind if it falls through, so far all I got is “ I’ll take em” , yeah… I can’t spend that….🤣
Definitely let me know! Feel free to drop me a PM if that is cleaner.
 

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Did you guys use anti-seize on the threads? I watched a video and the guy said you must use it, but the RK instructions don't mention it.
Was wondering what others have done.
 
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Did you guys use anti-seize on the threads? I watched a video and the guy said you must use it, but the RK instructions don't mention it.
Was wondering what others have done.
I used it on all the krawler joints, and track bars. Not that big a deal if you don’t. Once you get everything dialed in you never adjust them again unless you change lift heights.
 

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So I’m having a little bit of death wobble. Only a couple of times full on death wobble but I mess with stuff and get it better for a while. It’s on 39 inch BFG‘s. It’s done this with both 1.5 inch front wheel spacers and 2 inch wheel spacers. It’s done it even after rotating tires. I replaced the front tie rod assembly with Rustys and that made no difference. It’s done it with 7.5° castor, 6° castor, and I’m currently at 5° Caster and no difference in any of them. I know 5° Caster sounds low, but it honestly feels the best at that setting. Plus my aftermarket driveshaft, Adams, wouldn’t work at full droop and 7.5° caster. I have stock drag link and track bar. I know those could be the problem or part of the problem, but when I rock the steering back-and-forth they both seem OK. I know it could be the ball joints and that they’re hard to test. I did put a dial indicator on there and got .008 deflection by setting the weight of the vehicle on the hub and .005 deflection in the opposite direction by putting a prybar behind the knuckle and prying on it. I’m trying to do things with the least amount of money spent because my wife’s really getting tired of this money pit! Lol. I like the Apex ball joints for 300 bucks a set. A couple of people on this forum run of them are happy with them. Should I start there? As I reread this I probably should start there. With these larger tires and driving fast through the desert there’s no way the stock ball joints will last very long. By the way I’m at 14,000 miles now. I know at some point I’ve Gotta get a drag link and track bar also. If I could diagnose exactly what’s causing the wobble I’d like to start with that. And I have checked everything. Torqued and retorqued all nuts and bolts. I’ve been going through and changing out the metric bolts to American bolts that are slightly larger and take up some of the slop. Read articles and watched videos on how to find the cause of death wobble. Here’s a couple of pics of how I set up the dial indicator. I hadn’t seen anybody else try that before so I thought that would be good information to share. Any thoughts?

AF1A52F5-C1BC-4EC7-9A2E-60F9DB62F676.jpeg


E92740BD-9EBA-4DA2-ACC6-6D5409B9FC46.jpeg


186FA1FE-BE38-4CF4-902B-5A9B0FEB9082.jpeg


93DD13BF-A049-4928-8FD7-D7F13532584F.jpeg
 
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Roky

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So I’m having a little bit of death wobble. Only a couple of times full on death wobble but I mess with stuff and get it better for a while. It’s on 39 inch BFG‘s. It’s done this with both 1.5 inch front wheel spacers and 2 inch wheel spacers. It’s done it even after rotating tires. I replaced the front tie rod assembly with Rustys and that made no difference. It’s done it with 7.5° castor, 6° castor, and I’m currently at 5° Caster and no difference in any of them. I know 5° Caster sounds low, but it honestly feels the best at that setting. Plus my aftermarket driveshaft, Adams, wouldn’t work at full droop and 7.5° caster. I have stock drag link and track bar. I know those could be the problem or part of the problem, but when I rock the steering back-and-forth they both seem OK. I know it could be the ball joints and that they’re hard to test. I did put a dial indicator on there and got .008 deflection by setting the weight of the vehicle on the hub and .005 deflection in the opposite direction by putting a prybar behind the knuckle and prying on it. I’m trying to do things with the least amount of money spent because my wife’s really getting tired of this money pit! Lol. I like the Apex ball joints for 300 bucks a set. A couple of people on this forum run of them are happy with them. Should I start there? As I reread this I probably should start there. With these larger tires and driving fast through the desert there’s no way the stock ball joints will last very long. By the way I’m at 14,000 miles now. I know at some point I’ve Gotta get a drag link and track bar also. If I could diagnose exactly what’s causing the wobble I’d like to start with that. And I have checked everything. Torqued and retorqued all nuts and bolts. I’ve been going through and changing out the metric bolts to American bolts that are slightly larger and take up some of the slop. Read articles and watched videos on how to find the cause of death wobble. Here’s a couple of pics of how I set up the dial indicator. I hadn’t seen anybody else try that before so I thought that would be good information to share. Any thoughts?

Jeep Wrangler JL Rock Krawler  maintenance & All brands suspension general  conversation 93DD13BF-A049-4928-8FD7-D7F13532584F


Jeep Wrangler JL Rock Krawler  maintenance & All brands suspension general  conversation 93DD13BF-A049-4928-8FD7-D7F13532584F


Jeep Wrangler JL Rock Krawler  maintenance & All brands suspension general  conversation 93DD13BF-A049-4928-8FD7-D7F13532584F


Jeep Wrangler JL Rock Krawler  maintenance & All brands suspension general  conversation 93DD13BF-A049-4928-8FD7-D7F13532584F
I’d start at the ball joints. I know they don’t show wear like the old days. But with 39 s and I know you wheel it, that’s where I’d start. Are you running stock stabilizer too ? I know it’s not a root cause, but I’ve found with this new JL platform, it’s more of a player than in the past models. How much lift are you on, if any ?
 

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So I’m having a little bit of death wobble. Only a couple of times full on death wobble but I mess with stuff and get it better for a while. It’s on 39 inch BFG‘s. It’s done this with both 1.5 inch front wheel spacers and 2 inch wheel spacers. It’s done it even after rotating tires. I replaced the front tie rod assembly with Rustys and that made no difference. It’s done it with 7.5° castor, 6° castor, and I’m currently at 5° Caster and no difference in any of them. I know 5° Caster sounds low, but it honestly feels the best at that setting. Plus my aftermarket driveshaft, Adams, wouldn’t work at full droop and 7.5° caster. I have stock drag link and track bar. I know those could be the problem or part of the problem, but when I rock the steering back-and-forth they both seem OK. I know it could be the ball joints and that they’re hard to test. I did put a dial indicator on there and got .008 deflection by setting the weight of the vehicle on the hub and .005 deflection in the opposite direction by putting a prybar behind the knuckle and prying on it. I’m trying to do things with the least amount of money spent because my wife’s really getting tired of this money pit! Lol. I like the Apex ball joints for 300 bucks a set. A couple of people on this forum run of them are happy with them. Should I start there? As I reread this I probably should start there. With these larger tires and driving fast through the desert there’s no way the stock ball joints will last very long. By the way I’m at 14,000 miles now. I know at some point I’ve Gotta get a drag link and track bar also. If I could diagnose exactly what’s causing the wobble I’d like to start with that. And I have checked everything. Torqued and retorqued all nuts and bolts. I’ve been going through and changing out the metric bolts to American bolts that are slightly larger and take up some of the slop. Read articles and watched videos on how to find the cause of death wobble. Here’s a couple of pics of how I set up the dial indicator. I hadn’t seen anybody else try that before so I thought that would be good information to share. Any thoughts?

AF1A52F5-C1BC-4EC7-9A2E-60F9DB62F676.jpeg


E92740BD-9EBA-4DA2-ACC6-6D5409B9FC46.jpeg


186FA1FE-BE38-4CF4-902B-5A9B0FEB9082.jpeg


93DD13BF-A049-4928-8FD7-D7F13532584F.jpeg
Track bar is typically the culprit, however on my cousins jeep we could not get rid if it even with brand new everything up front even ball joints. The only thing we had left before he sold it was steering gear box, as it was kinda of sloppy. I still dont know what was causing it. And i mean we replaced everything, every single joint, bushing, arm, you name it, couldnt find it. Not what you wanted to hear im sure lol thats just how my exploration into the jl wobble went. Im not saying you wont find it, is just a bitch to find on these jeeps it seems.
 

Glamisfan

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Stock stabilizer at the moment. I’ve got everything to do my own PSC ram I’m gonna pull the steering box and port it myself. But I know that will mask this problem and I’d really like to find the problem before putting the hydraulic assist on.
I do have the steel steering box, and it didn’t make very much difference in my wandering. So I adjusted the screw on it about 1/8 turn in and it’s steers as good as a jeep could ever get when the road is smooth. Where I live we have a lot of those cracks in the road that up heave a little bit and that’s where I get the wobble from.

Lately I’ve even been thinking about picking up a new super duty steering stabilizer and fitting that on there just to see if that Solve the problem. I would think a three-quarter ton pick up stabilizer would make a good addition. But I’ve seen a lot of people say that if everything’s working as a should you can actually drive with no steering stabilizer, so.

i’ve even had the thought run through my mind that maybe it’s as simple as my 13.5 inch tires on 7.5 inch wheels makes the sidewall more Flexi and prone to wobble? Never heard anybody mention that before but Hell if I know! LOL
 
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Stock stabilizer at the moment. I’ve got everything to do my own PSC ram I’m gonna pull the steering box and port it myself. But I know that will mask this problem and I’d really like to find the problem before putting the hydraulic assist on.
I do have the steel steering box, and it didn’t make very much difference in my wandering. So I adjusted the screw on it about 1/8 turn in and it’s steers as good as a jeep could ever get when the road is smooth. Where I live we have a lot of those cracks in the road that up heave a little bit and that’s where I get the wobble from.

Lately I’ve even been thinking about picking up a new super duty steering stabilizer and fitting that on there just to see if that Solve the problem. I would think a three-quarter ton pick up stabilizer would make a good addition. But I’ve seen a lot of people say that if everything’s working as a should you can actually drive with no steering stabilizer, so.

i’ve even had the thought run through my mind that maybe it’s as simple as my 13.5 inch tires on 7.5 inch wheels makes the sidewall more Flexi and prone to wobble? Never heard anybody mention that before but Hell if I know! LOL
That’s actually a real thing I think, I didn’t know you were running balloon tires, lol.
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