word302
Well-Known Member
I feel ya man, mine built in ‘73 of course it’s like new now, but it took me a minute, lol…
And damn, that’s cold, shit comes to a halt around here if it drops below 50……
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Rock Krawler maintenance & All brands suspension general conversation
Jeepn’
Well-Known Member
Ok, final opinion fellas. Seems like there’s only a $51 difference between these two kits. The only noticeable difference to me is that one has a rear track bar and the other has the no limits sway bar links.
Any particular reason to chose one over the other?
Adventure X-No limits
Vs
X-Factor Lift
Any particular reason to chose one over the other?
Adventure X-No limits
Vs
X-Factor Lift
word302
Well-Known Member
Honestly what you should really do is call Bob at RK and discuss exactly what you want to do with it. He’ll steer you in the right direction. The x-factor has the most articulation but requires some maintenance on the joints.
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Roky
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #1,024
Well I’m no bob , but I did stay at a holiday inn express last night…….I’ll give some .02 ……
The difference in the two kits is the control arm joints…..The xfactor has the Krawler joints on the axle side, they have a total 90 degrees of misalignment. They are rebuildable, and require grease a few times a year, more or less depending on how you use it…….
The adventure joints are a maintenance free joint and have 70 degrees of total misalignment…….. Now, unless you plan on running long travel shocks or coil overs I doubt you’ll miss the extra 20 degrees of misalignment…….
That’s the gist of it….. As for the track bar not included……with the 2.5” lift, the rear track bar relo bracket will raise your oem track bar enough to center your rear axle, and you can wait till the oem bar wears out before replacing it……..
Here’s a pic of the Krawler joint in action, with my set up these work best for me……see how the frame side joint is relaxed and kickin it, while the Krawler joint is working it’s ass off……lol…
The difference in the two kits is the control arm joints…..The xfactor has the Krawler joints on the axle side, they have a total 90 degrees of misalignment. They are rebuildable, and require grease a few times a year, more or less depending on how you use it…….
The adventure joints are a maintenance free joint and have 70 degrees of total misalignment…….. Now, unless you plan on running long travel shocks or coil overs I doubt you’ll miss the extra 20 degrees of misalignment…….
That’s the gist of it….. As for the track bar not included……with the 2.5” lift, the rear track bar relo bracket will raise your oem track bar enough to center your rear axle, and you can wait till the oem bar wears out before replacing it……..
Here’s a pic of the Krawler joint in action, with my set up these work best for me……see how the frame side joint is relaxed and kickin it, while the Krawler joint is working it’s ass off……lol…
Jeepn’
Well-Known Member
Dude, solid explanation. I appreciate the real world experience and pictures. My interest in RK stems from this thread lol.Well I’m no bob , but I did stay at a holiday inn express last night…….I’ll give some .02 ……
The difference in the two kits is the control arm joints…..The xfactor has the Krawler joints on the axle side, they have a total 90 degrees of misalignment. They are rebuildable, and require grease a few times a year, more or less depending on how you use it…….
The adventure joints are a maintenance free joint and have 70 degrees of total misalignment…….. Now, unless you plan on running long travel shocks or coil overs I doubt you’ll miss the extra 20 degrees of misalignment…….
That’s the gist of it….. As for the track bar not included……with the 2.5” lift, the rear track bar relo bracket will raise your oem track bar enough to center your rear axle, and you can wait till the oem bar wears out before replacing it……..
Here’s a pic of the Krawler joint in action, with my set up these work best for me……see how the frame side joint is relaxed and kickin it, while the Krawler joint is working it’s ass off……lol…
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hoag4147
Well-Known Member
- First Name
- Rick
- Joined
- Dec 13, 2019
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- 6,001
- Location
- Colleyville, TX
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- 2022 JLUR XR
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- 2
That’s not what I’m hearing
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Roky
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #1,029
One thing we haven’t mentioned is you’ll need to run a wheel with 4.5” or less backspace to keep from hitting the control arms when turning full lock……RK arms are bent up for ground clearance as opposed to bent inward like the oem arms…… if you want to run the stock wheels, you’ll need to run spacers…… If you run spacers, I recommend running 1.75 - 2” so you won’t have to cut the studs, that way when you do decide to replace the wheels you won’t have to worry about new lug studs…….This was an easy choice for me, as I prefer a sunken in look to the rim, and the slightly wider stance looks badass, IMO……….That’s a gamble. Lol. I placed the order not too long ago so 3-5 months
Omen
Well-Known Member
Since we are talking RK here, can anyone share some experiences with 2.25 RRD shocks? My Falcons are good to 1.5" over 'stock' Rubi. I am going to need to upgrade to longer shocks. I am not really a fan of Fox, so I'm kinda wondering if RK's 2.25RRD is a suitable replacement, or do I need to return to Falcon and deal with the mismatch that seems to be apparent with that brand's shocks and RK springs?
Maybe I should give it a rest, put whatever is available on and send it!
Omen
Maybe I should give it a rest, put whatever is available on and send it!
Omen
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Roky
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #1,032
Isn’t @Rock Krawler Suspension on here anymore, I’ve PM Bob a couple times and crickets……has anyone heard from them on this forum lately ?
engineXI
Well-Known Member
Any advice on removing a zerk from the hose nozzel? I was able to unscrew the zerk from the joint and the hose from the grease gun, so now I just have the zerk in the hose. It doesnt seem to want to come out for nothing.
