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Rock Krawler 3.5 Adventure Series I Install

DravenGSX

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Hey all. I am preparing to install a RK 3.5" Adventure Series I kit with Falcon 2.1 shocks, and Metal Cloak bump stops. I've watched several videos (some several times - love the [Banned Site] install videos), so I have a pretty good idea of the process, and I'm fairly handy. But, I can't find any videos, or tutorials specifically for this kit. Has anybody installed this kit, and if so, do you have any tips?

One thing I noticed, is that the instructions state to remove the passenger side drag link from the knuckle in order to drop the axle far enough to fit the new springs. However, in the Teraflex 4.5" Base Kit install video, they don't do this and seem to have plenty of room. Is this something I really need to do? @Kevin8086 did you all do this during the MC 3.5 Game Changer install?

Also, any tips for (as the instructions put it) putting on my big boy pants to get 300 lb-ft on the track bar jam nuts?

One last question, while I'm here -- How desperately will I need a front drive shaft? Is this one of those situations where, the first time I engage the front driveshaft, it's going to grenade itself? Or, can I get through a few easy (I'm in Florida) muddy trails to buy myself some time to recoup the savings account from the lift?

Thanks in advance.

Shout out to Chris at Alpha Dirt Offroad for getting the kit to me so quickly, at a great price!
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grumeazy

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I did the Evo 3.5 kit and did not remove the drag link. I did, however, have to use coil spring compressors. That seemed like the easier option and worked out very well. I also did not do the front drive shaft. My buddy that i was installing with did it on his JK when he did the same 3.5 kit from evo because it was recommended. The boys at evo said its a non issue on the JL. I would call rock krawler just to make sure and put your mind at east. Ive had it in the dirt and had 4 wheel engaged every other weekend for months, no issues.

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anotheraznguy

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You normally do not need to remove the drag link. Just disconnect the electronics and loosen all the arms. It will allow you to droop your front suspension enough. For the rear to make your life easier just flip the ebrake cable under the evap cannister and it will give you tons of droop

Front driveshaft is not necessary since it is not spinning normally. The front driveshaft will eventually need to be replaced if you are dropping your suspension out in 4wd alot it will speed up the need. Also just doublecheck clearances with the stock front shaft and the skid plate / exhaust to see if you are hitting anything there as well
 
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DravenGSX

DravenGSX

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Thanks for the replies.. helps set me at ease about the driveshaft.

I'm hoping to not have to use a spring compressor - I guess I'll give it a shot without disconnecting the drag link, and see if I can squeeze it in.
 

Rock Krawler Suspension

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The instructions say to disconnect the drag link to prevent potential damage to the drag link ends from over extension. If you feel that you can safely install the spring without damaging drag link ends, by all means, save the time and do it that way. It has been our experience that a lot of people have over extended drag link ends during installs and we wanted to make sure the customer is not going to experience the potential damage.
 

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DravenGSX

DravenGSX

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The instructions say to disconnect the drag link to prevent potential damage to the drag link ends from over extension. If you feel that you can safely install the spring without damaging drag link ends, by all means, save the time and do it that way. It has been our experience that a lot of people have over extended drag link ends during installs and we wanted to make sure the customer is not going to experience the potential damage.
Thanks for responding. That’s the answer that I needed. I’ll remove the passenger side of the drag link.
 
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DravenGSX

DravenGSX

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The instructions say to disconnect the drag link to prevent potential damage to the drag link ends from over extension. If you feel that you can safely install the spring without damaging drag link ends, by all means, save the time and do it that way. It has been our experience that a lot of people have over extended drag link ends during installs and we wanted to make sure the customer is not going to experience the potential damage.
Another question for you - it looks like my wheels might not make it before my only reasonable time for installation. The recommended backspace for the kit is 4.5", but is it possible to run the stock wheels (I think backspace is somewhere around 6") at all?
 

Rock Krawler Suspension

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Another question for you - it looks like my wheels might not make it before my only reasonable time for installation. The recommended backspace for the kit is 4.5", but is it possible to run the stock wheels (I think backspace is somewhere around 6") at all?
Stock wheel back space is 6.25" they will rub rear sway bar links, possibly rear upper control arm and the front lower arms while steering. If you need to run factory wheels for some time a 1.75" spacer would be needed.
 
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DravenGSX

DravenGSX

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Stock wheel back space is 6.25" they will rub rear sway bar links, possibly rear upper control arm and the front lower arms while steering. If you need to run factory wheels for some time a 1.75" spacer would be needed.
Thanks again. That's what I thought, but figured I'd hope for the best.
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