Cypher
Well-Known Member
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I have a Poison Spyder Bruiser front bumper that required cube fog No with a set of Rigid lights as they fit better than the KC ones I originally planned to run. I had a shop install the Bumper and lights as I ran into issues with the frame horns and did not have the tools anymore to trim them down.
Everything looked great and the lights worked with no issues. However the wiring job was less than stellar, and was way more complex than it should have been. They took the extra factory harness I had, and spliced it into the Rigid harness, and then ran power and ground into the battery. It worked with the factory switch, but was pulling power outside of the factory circuit. I could have left it alone, but I could not do it as I knew it could be done much cleaner, and eliminate multiple splices etc. I finished my new harness last night and got it installed. Way cleaner, no more multiple splices, and it looks 100% factory.
In the picture with both wiring harnesses you can see what was installed by the shop on the left, and on the right the one I made. The other picture is just my new harness. Everything works great, no flicker, and all connections are soldered and heat shrink wrapped to keep it working long term. The shops job was just crimped together with connectors, and had actual bare wires in some spots from the wires that were not used. Both of these were the factory JL fog harness (you can pull from your factory bumper, or order from Mopar for about 30$), and the Rigid harness.
When I was soldering the wires for the harness I also went ahead and Fixed my rear hatch window defroster that had come undone after using for a few hours. Seems like that rear window defroster connection is a poor design as number of people have had it come undone.
View attachment 272895
View attachment 272896
Everything looked great and the lights worked with no issues. However the wiring job was less than stellar, and was way more complex than it should have been. They took the extra factory harness I had, and spliced it into the Rigid harness, and then ran power and ground into the battery. It worked with the factory switch, but was pulling power outside of the factory circuit. I could have left it alone, but I could not do it as I knew it could be done much cleaner, and eliminate multiple splices etc. I finished my new harness last night and got it installed. Way cleaner, no more multiple splices, and it looks 100% factory.
In the picture with both wiring harnesses you can see what was installed by the shop on the left, and on the right the one I made. The other picture is just my new harness. Everything works great, no flicker, and all connections are soldered and heat shrink wrapped to keep it working long term. The shops job was just crimped together with connectors, and had actual bare wires in some spots from the wires that were not used. Both of these were the factory JL fog harness (you can pull from your factory bumper, or order from Mopar for about 30$), and the Rigid harness.
When I was soldering the wires for the harness I also went ahead and Fixed my rear hatch window defroster that had come undone after using for a few hours. Seems like that rear window defroster connection is a poor design as number of people have had it come undone.
View attachment 272895
View attachment 272896
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