S207307
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Oct 6, 2017
- Threads
- 8
- Messages
- 119
- Reaction score
- 55
- Location
- Kansas City
- Vehicle(s)
- 2018 Jeep Wrangler (JL) Unlimited Sport S
- Thread starter
- #1
I purchased a JLU Sport S and my first desired mod was to replace those small, skinny OEM wheels/tires with some beefy 35” BFG KO2s (315/70r17s).
I viewed a bunch of posts on the forum with other JLU Sport owners putting their 35s on without a lift, and not having any immediate issues…but I knew I didn’t want to take the chance.
This is my first Jeep and I don’t plan on doing much hardcore off-roading, but if I need to run over a Prius in the parking lot, I want to have the option
Knowing I wanted the lift and didn’t want to spend much money, I went with the “Rough Country 2.5" Suspension Lift Kit for 2018 Jeep JL Wrangler” (see: http://www.roughcountry.com/jeep-suspension-lift-kit-676c.html). I bought mine from their eBay store: (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rough-Country-2-5-Suspension-Lift-Kit-2018-Jeep-JL-Wrangler-/362250730619) since I have an eBay credit card that gives me some cash back if I go that route. The price was the same via either site.
I do very little mechanical work on my cars, so this purchase was a bit of a gamble knowing that I intended to do it myself rather than get a shop to put it on for me (remember, I didn’t want to spend that much). After reviewing the instructions (https://s3.amazonaws.com/roughcountry/install/921677000.pdf), I bought a couple of 4-ton jack stands for $20 from Sears and borrowed the services of my father and his two bottle jacks and floor/auto jack.
*Apparently I bought the 2.5” lift kit early, because the current one for sale includes a few things my kit did not. I think these are the “extra” ones not in my early kit: four “Frt Sway Link Sleeve”, two front and two rear “Bump Stop Spacers”.
This is the one I bought: https://www.ebay.com/itm/142677189806 (I paid $160 rather than $180).
Here is my (smaller) kit: https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/qd8AAOSwRLZadJYY/s-l1600.jpg
Let me first say that the website indicates 2 to 3 hours of install time. This is probably accurate if you are much more mechanically inclined that I am and have better tools (air impact wrench and maybe a real hydraulic vehicle lift), but I went slow, had hand ratchet sockets/wrenches, and just the “regular” jacks. My install took me about 8 hours…but I didn’t die from being crushed by my new Jeep or have any missing or extra parts at the end!
I ending up using 4 jack stands—mostly just for safety and because I re-positioned a jack stand when alternating between the driver- or passenger-sides. I did the front first and it was certainly the more difficult of the two ends because of the driveshaft and needed droop of the control arms to get those coil springs loose. In my opinion, you need the bottle jacks (if you don’t have a real lift) in order to get the Jeep raised enough to get a viable sag.
You also probably need to make sure you have the clearance to get enough torque to loosen up those nuts/bolts from the factory—they have Loctite and won’t be easy to free up without good leverage (or that air wrench). Additionally, you will want to print out the instructions in color (the ones that come with the kit are in black and white and it is difficult to discern some of the things in the pictures without color). You should also know that the instructions don’t indicate when one side is the passenger side or the driver side—you obviously have to do both sides (on each end), but there are a few things that are only done on one side/once (such as “remove the wiring harness from the upper control arm”, “remove the axle vent tube from the differential housing”, “Unplug the 4x4 actuator for slack”, etc.) You will also want to have a good undercarriage light source. A lot of this is probably known by experienced wrenchers, but it was all a bit new to me and worth passing on to those with similar (in)experience.
There are also a couple of steps that I don’t feel would be possible without a helper—such as placing that damn washer and threaded it to the bolt for the rear (steps 12 and 13 for the back install).
The other thing I did is to use a Sharpie to label all the factory nuts/bolts, etc. with the step number after I removed them (that way I was able to visually look at them and match them to the step I removed them in order to put them back after placing the spacers, etc. Maybe match up the Rough Country supplied nuts, bolts, etc. to the steps they will be used in prior to the install as well (this will keep you from trying to put a nut, bolt, washer, etc. in the wrong place.
I should also mention that I missed that I would need a 19mm socket and wrench (it shows the ¾” torque spec…and this is the metric equivalent) in order to tighten the RC-supplied nuts and bolt (I think that is steps 16 and 17 for the rear install). The instructions don’t mention it in those steps…but that is where you will need the ¾” (19mm) wrench and socket.
This install review is all I can think of for now…I will add more later as I think of it or questions are asked.
Follow the post-install instructions!
I triple-checked everything and then made sure to drive it under a variety of conditions.
Everything worked out great for me: steering was well-aligned, the lift actually achieved the 2 and 2.5 inch increase (I measured the before and after).
I will share pics once I get my new 35” tires on this weekend!
P.S.
Here is the link to the warranty: https://s3.amazonaws.com/roughcountry/email/newsletters/Jason/warranty&returns+flyer.pdf
I viewed a bunch of posts on the forum with other JLU Sport owners putting their 35s on without a lift, and not having any immediate issues…but I knew I didn’t want to take the chance.
This is my first Jeep and I don’t plan on doing much hardcore off-roading, but if I need to run over a Prius in the parking lot, I want to have the option
Knowing I wanted the lift and didn’t want to spend much money, I went with the “Rough Country 2.5" Suspension Lift Kit for 2018 Jeep JL Wrangler” (see: http://www.roughcountry.com/jeep-suspension-lift-kit-676c.html). I bought mine from their eBay store: (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rough-Country-2-5-Suspension-Lift-Kit-2018-Jeep-JL-Wrangler-/362250730619) since I have an eBay credit card that gives me some cash back if I go that route. The price was the same via either site.
I do very little mechanical work on my cars, so this purchase was a bit of a gamble knowing that I intended to do it myself rather than get a shop to put it on for me (remember, I didn’t want to spend that much). After reviewing the instructions (https://s3.amazonaws.com/roughcountry/install/921677000.pdf), I bought a couple of 4-ton jack stands for $20 from Sears and borrowed the services of my father and his two bottle jacks and floor/auto jack.
*Apparently I bought the 2.5” lift kit early, because the current one for sale includes a few things my kit did not. I think these are the “extra” ones not in my early kit: four “Frt Sway Link Sleeve”, two front and two rear “Bump Stop Spacers”.
This is the one I bought: https://www.ebay.com/itm/142677189806 (I paid $160 rather than $180).
Here is my (smaller) kit: https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/qd8AAOSwRLZadJYY/s-l1600.jpg
Let me first say that the website indicates 2 to 3 hours of install time. This is probably accurate if you are much more mechanically inclined that I am and have better tools (air impact wrench and maybe a real hydraulic vehicle lift), but I went slow, had hand ratchet sockets/wrenches, and just the “regular” jacks. My install took me about 8 hours…but I didn’t die from being crushed by my new Jeep or have any missing or extra parts at the end!
I ending up using 4 jack stands—mostly just for safety and because I re-positioned a jack stand when alternating between the driver- or passenger-sides. I did the front first and it was certainly the more difficult of the two ends because of the driveshaft and needed droop of the control arms to get those coil springs loose. In my opinion, you need the bottle jacks (if you don’t have a real lift) in order to get the Jeep raised enough to get a viable sag.
You also probably need to make sure you have the clearance to get enough torque to loosen up those nuts/bolts from the factory—they have Loctite and won’t be easy to free up without good leverage (or that air wrench). Additionally, you will want to print out the instructions in color (the ones that come with the kit are in black and white and it is difficult to discern some of the things in the pictures without color). You should also know that the instructions don’t indicate when one side is the passenger side or the driver side—you obviously have to do both sides (on each end), but there are a few things that are only done on one side/once (such as “remove the wiring harness from the upper control arm”, “remove the axle vent tube from the differential housing”, “Unplug the 4x4 actuator for slack”, etc.) You will also want to have a good undercarriage light source. A lot of this is probably known by experienced wrenchers, but it was all a bit new to me and worth passing on to those with similar (in)experience.
There are also a couple of steps that I don’t feel would be possible without a helper—such as placing that damn washer and threaded it to the bolt for the rear (steps 12 and 13 for the back install).
The other thing I did is to use a Sharpie to label all the factory nuts/bolts, etc. with the step number after I removed them (that way I was able to visually look at them and match them to the step I removed them in order to put them back after placing the spacers, etc. Maybe match up the Rough Country supplied nuts, bolts, etc. to the steps they will be used in prior to the install as well (this will keep you from trying to put a nut, bolt, washer, etc. in the wrong place.
I should also mention that I missed that I would need a 19mm socket and wrench (it shows the ¾” torque spec…and this is the metric equivalent) in order to tighten the RC-supplied nuts and bolt (I think that is steps 16 and 17 for the rear install). The instructions don’t mention it in those steps…but that is where you will need the ¾” (19mm) wrench and socket.
This install review is all I can think of for now…I will add more later as I think of it or questions are asked.
Follow the post-install instructions!
I triple-checked everything and then made sure to drive it under a variety of conditions.
Everything worked out great for me: steering was well-aligned, the lift actually achieved the 2 and 2.5 inch increase (I measured the before and after).
I will share pics once I get my new 35” tires on this weekend!
P.S.
Here is the link to the warranty: https://s3.amazonaws.com/roughcountry/email/newsletters/Jason/warranty&returns+flyer.pdf
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