Review on the Baja Designs LP6 Pros and Squadron Pros

[jdhunt0]

The fog lights.

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[AZRocks]

The fog lights.

In hindsight, I think the Squadron Pros are too bright to be used effectively on the street. I’d recommend the SAE version of the squadrons if you’re looking for more light on the streets.

 

[Andy-jr.]

I have been looking at these for a while. The stock halogen lights are junk. I live in a small town and rarely pass more than a couple cars on my way to/from work. Do you feel like these can be aimed to cause minimal issues for other drivers? Will I have to aim them down so far they are not an improvement over stock?

I have the Squadron Sport with amber lens covers on my Jl and love them. I run them as a everyday fog light and haven't had any issues. When I first installed them they were a little high but I fixed that and haven't had any issues with oncoming cars.

 

[Toemoe]

Well, you don't have to use our switch. Any double pole double throw switch will work if you wanted a direct replacement on our 640172 harness. The biggest thing to know about the installation is to ensure the low and high beam pins are never powered on at the same time.

With our 640172 harness, this type of switch prevents this from happening. Many of our Rubicon customers like to utilize their AUX switches with our LP series. This is perfectly fine to do, but requires a little bit different approach to wiring. Since the Jeep already has everything setup (relay, fuse, switch), you're pretty much connecting leads from the lights to the leads from the firewall. In this situation, I would use our new LP series module harness. https://www.bajadesigns.com/products/LP-Series-Controller-Module-Harness.asp. The LP9/LP6 Pro has four wires coming from the unit. High (+), Low (+), Amber back-light feature (+), and Ground (-). The ground wire can be tied into the negative terminal of the battery or a common ground on the chassis. The Amber back-light is commonly tapped into the marker light's power lead or switched power on the vehicle. This way whenever the marker light or ignition is turned on, the amber back-light feature is on. An alternative is putting this on a switch. Now for the high and low beam. Some people only want to use the high beam (light is 100% on). In that case, all you do is connect the lead from pin 4 to the lead off the firewall. Keep in mind the amperage of each light. This will matter when you're choosing your switches. The LP9 Pro pulls 9.12 amps each in the high beam position. I would put this on the larger 40 amp switch when using a pair. If you wish to use the low and high beam, I would strongly encourage customers to use a safety relay. If for some reason you accidentally turn on both switches, it shuts off the other circuit. In the end, preventing damage to occur. This safety relay can be a standard 12v 40 amp 5 pin relay and goes in line of the high/low wires. I have that schematic available and I would be happy to walk anyone through it. Feel free to PM me for it and I can send it over.

-Paul M.

This is extremely helpful, thank you!
I am having trouble understanding how to wire my LP4s with the provided wiring harness (64075). I have a JL with the factory switches. I plan to wire the lights to Aux 3. I am having trouble understanding what I can cut off and how to reconnect the wires after cutting the wire harness. In addition, what gage wire would I need if I need more wire. PLEASE HELP. I’m a noob when it comes to wiring but I really want to install them myself. What wire connectors or accessories will I need to pick up to make this work?

 

[AZRocks]

If anyone is curious, here’s how I wired my LP6s. This ensures that pins 1 (low beam) and 4 (high beam) aren’t powered at the same time. This solution also utilizes a pair of aux switches in the JL, not a DPDT switch.

Aux 1 turns on low beam.
Leave Aux 1 on and hit Aux 3 for high beam.
Hit Aux 3 again (turn it off) and it switches back to low beam.
Hit Aux 1 again (turn it off) at any time and it turns both off.
Think of Aux 3 as a toggle between high and low beam. However, neither work unless Aux 1 is on.

The center of the drawing is a relay. The other connections either go to a particular pin on the LP6s or to one of the aux wires.
Sorry it’s hand-drawn. This was just the result of a brainstorm effort by me

 

[Foster1]

Don't mean to thread jack, but anyone have any pics of Squadrons mounted where the LP6's are on OP's Jeep?

Would they look too small and awkward?

Been debating about trying it out since I cant find any pics at all of anyone with that setup.

 

[BajaDesigns]

This is extremely helpful, thank you!
I am having trouble understanding how to wire my LP4s with the provided wiring harness (64075). I have a JL with the factory switches. I plan to wire the lights to Aux 3. I am having trouble understanding what I can cut off and how to reconnect the wires after cutting the wire harness. In addition, what gage wire would I need if I need more wire. PLEASE HELP. I’m a noob when it comes to wiring but I really want to install them myself. What wire connectors or accessories will I need to pick up to make this work?

The LP4 is a little bit different than the LP6/LP9 because it doesn't have a high/low feature. In fact it's actually easier to install because we're only using three wires. Since you're installing lighting on a Jeep that has auxiliary switches, we'll be eliminating the majority of the harness. You don't need the switch, inline fuse, or relay. What you want is the red power lead and the black ground coming from the lights. I would cut it at the relay, so you have more than enough lead to work with. If you're not familiar with the wiring the Jeep provides, watch the first 5 minutes of this video. It illustrates where we'll be making a few connections. Each LP4 takes up 7.5 amps. Your Jeep has two 40 amp and two 15 amp circuits. I would use one of the bigger 40 amp switches (two thicker wires from the bundle of four wires). you'll be able to find the color code of the auxiliary switch wiring in your owner's manual. Once you identify which switch you would like to use, it's time to make the connection. The black wire would be attached to a common ground using a ring terminal. The red wire would be attached to the auxiliary switch power lead from the Jeep. Now you should be able to turn on the light with the switch. The final step is hooking up the amber back light feature. There's a few different ways you can do this depending on your preference, but most hook it up to a switched power source. This way whenever you turn the ignition on, it acts as a marker light. I attached a PDF with instruction on how to do that. Basically, you insert the pin into the 4 pin Deutsch connector and run it into an add-a-fuse.

You shouldn't need extra wiring as it should be more than enough. For making the connections, a high quality butt connector should do the job well. https://www.amazon.com/TICONN-Conne...eywords=butt+connector&qid=1596642869&sr=8-14 I would use heat shrink on top for added protection. Let me know if you have any other questions, thank you!

 

[Toemoe]

The LP4 is a little bit different than the LP6/LP9 because it doesn't have a high/low feature. In fact it's actually easier to install because we're only using three wires. Since you're installing lighting on a Jeep that has auxiliary switches, we'll be eliminating the majority of the harness. You don't need the switch, inline fuse, or relay. What you want is the red power lead and the black ground coming from the lights. I would cut it at the relay, so you have more than enough lead to work with. If you're not familiar with the wiring the Jeep provides, watch the first 5 minutes of this video. It illustrates where we'll be making a few connections. Each LP4 takes up 7.5 amps. Your Jeep has two 40 amp and two 15 amp circuits. I would use one of the bigger 40 amp switches (two thicker wires from the bundle of four wires). you'll be able to find the color code of the auxiliary switch wiring in your owner's manual. Once you identify which switch you would like to use, it's time to make the connection. The black wire would be attached to a common ground using a ring terminal. The red wire would be attached to the auxiliary switch power lead from the Jeep. Now you should be able to turn on the light with the switch. The final step is hooking up the amber back light feature. There's a few different ways you can do this depending on your preference, but most hook it up to a switched power source. This way whenever you turn the ignition on, it acts as a marker light. I attached a PDF with instruction on how to do that. Basically, you insert the pin into the 4 pin Deutsch connector and run it into an add-a-fuse.

You shouldn't need extra wiring as it should be more than enough. For making the connections, a high quality butt connector should do the job well. https://www.amazon.com/TICONN-Conne...eywords=butt+connector&qid=1596642869&sr=8-14 I would use heat shrink on top for added protection. Let me know if you have any other questions, thank you!

I have to say, this has been the most helpful instructions I've come across! Thank you so much!

Just a super noobie follow up question. The relay where I will be cutting the red wire at, that is the white plastic piece between the black box and the end of the red wire? In addition, can I remove the wiring for the switch completely from the black box where everything connects to?

I know my terminology is completely off lol but this is the fun in owning a Jeep, learning new things. Again, I really appreciate the help.

 

[BajaDesigns]

I have to say, this has been the most helpful instructions I've come across! Thank you so much!

Just a super noobie follow up question. The relay where I will be cutting the red wire at, that is the white plastic piece between the black box and the end of the red wire? In addition, can I remove the wiring for the switch completely from the black box where everything connects to?

I know my terminology is completely off lol but this is the fun in owning a Jeep, learning new things. Again, I really appreciate the help.

Slight typo! The black and white wires is what we want coming from the harness. Once you cut in the mark down below. You'll be left with a few wires. But were not using the switch, ring terminals, or relay. You want the two looms with the white and black wires going to the Deutsch connectors. White is positive and black is ground. White is hooked up to the auxiliary wiring from the jeep and the black is hooked up to a common ground with a ring terminal.

 

[Toemoe]

Slight typo! The black and white wires is what we want coming from the harness. Once you cut in the mark down below. You'll be left with a few wires. But were not using the switch, ring terminals, or relay. You want the two looms with the white and black wires going to the Deutsch connectors. White is positive and black is ground. White is hooked up to the auxiliary wiring from the jeep and the black is hooked up to a common ground with a ring terminal.

Makes sense! One last question, I promise lol once I have the two white cables coming from the two Deutsch connectors, can I twist them to together where they meet at the butt connector? So one end of the butt connector is the 2 white wires twisted together and the other end is the cable for aux 3. Really appreciate the help and sorry for hijacking this thread. Hoping this helps some else that knows nothing about wiring like me.

 

[BajaDesigns]

Makes sense! One last question, I promise lol once I have the two white cables coming from the two Deutsch connectors, can I twist them to together where they meet at the butt connector? So one end of the butt connector is the 2 white wires twisted together and the other end is the cable for aux 3. Really appreciate the help and sorry for hijacking this thread. Hoping this helps some else that knows nothing about wiring like me.

Exactly. No worries at all, I'm sure this information will help someone else down the road.

 

[JINO]

Hey, guys/gals. I did some recent lighting upgrades and I thought I'd share some thoughts on them.
First off, I replaced my factory fog lights with Baja Designs Squadron Pros. The difference in light output is amazing!! I got both the clear lenses and the amber lenses and I've run both for awhile now. I finally landed on the amber/yellow lenses due to the dusty climate I live in. Aiming is crucial on these if you plan to run them on the road. It's certainly doable though. Install was a simple plug-n-play affair. BD includes the brackets and the wire harnesses match right up to factory. No error messages, etc.

Next up was some LP6 Pros. I went with the driving combo lenses on these.
They have a four-wire hookup. One wire powers the amber DRL function they have, one wire is for the "low" setting, one is for the "high setting", one is ground. I was able to wire these into the Aux switches on my Rubicon. When I hit aux 1, low comes on. When I hit aux 3 (with aux 1 still on), it switches from low to high. For the amber DRLs on these, I used a quadratec harness to tie into the factory DRLs. I might switch that up and make them come on whenever the engine is running so they'll stay on with my headlights. As for beam patterns, the low is great for general off-road driving. They really do an awesome job of lighting your path and there are side-facing LEDs to help with lighting the sides of the trail. When you switch on high, it turns on additional LEDs that are more of a focused beam that helps you see further down the trail.

If anyone needs anything with respect to wiring, I'd be glad to help.

Finally, I got everything from Lewis @wrecklessoffroad. This guy is great to work with, shipped my stuff super fast, and made me the best deal I could find. I highly recommend him if you're in the market!!

I would love to see how it was wired to the factory aux.

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