Reverse light tap under hood?

[40”JLURD]

Can anyone point me in the direction of how to tap into the reverse light circuit under the hood instead of at the back of the Jeep?

I would really like to avoid having to run another wire all the way front to back if possible so please chime in if you know where to tap under the hood for the reverse light circuit!!

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[bobholthaus]

Anyone? I’m going to be using a Switch Pros system and need a reverse tap under the hood for the circuit. Thanks!

 

[Headbarcode]

Anyone? I’m going to be using a Switch Pros system and need a reverse tap under the hood for the circuit. Thanks!

I've had the SwitchPros SP9100 system for a while now, and am quite familiar with it. If adding an auxiliary set of reverse lights, just simply wire them to one of the 8 buttons. No need to loop into the reverse light circuit, otherwise you'd be blinding people in situations that don't need brighter than factory reverse lights.

 

[bobholthaus]

I've had the SwitchPros SP9100 system for a while now, and am quite familiar with it. If adding an auxiliary set of reverse lights, just simply wire them to one of the 8 buttons. No need to loop into the reverse light circuit, otherwise you'd be blinding people in situations that don't need brighter than factory reverse lights.

I have had Rigid reverse lights on my last 4 Jeeps, including my current Grand Cherokee & JK. I want them to turn on automatically when I put the vehicle in reverse; I'm more concerned in getting their attention than I am in blinding them, ha!! (not to mention me seeing them) I don't want to push a button every time I go into reverse; which is also why I have my ditch lights and light bar wired into the high beam trigger (so that they go on every time I turn on my high beams). For the $2000+ I will have in lights on my new JL, I want to use them every single time I can, and for me, that's using the SwitchPros triggers properly and having everything light up on its own. I'm constantly backing my boat and RV at night; I add Rigid reverse lights to all of my trailers as well! Make sense? Thanks man!

Here is my GC with Rigid flush mount SRM in the bumper and my boat trailer with Rigid Torch (or whatever the new small single-LED are called, which are perfect trailer lights). I run a 9100 in my GC and freaking love it!

 

[Headbarcode]

I have had Rigid reverse lights on my last 4 Jeeps, including my current Grand Cherokee & JK. I want them to turn on automatically when I put the vehicle in reverse; I'm more concerned in getting their attention than I am in blinding them, ha!! (not to mention me seeing them) I don't want to push a button every time I go into reverse; which is also why I have my ditch lights and light bar wired into the high beam trigger (so that they go on every time I turn on my high beams). For the $2000+ I will have in lights on my new JL, I want to use them every single time I can, and for me, that's using the SwitchPros triggers properly and having everything light up on its own. I'm constantly backing my boat and RV at night; I add Rigid reverse lights to all of my trailers as well! Make sense? Thanks man!

Here is my GC with Rigid flush mount SRM in the bumper and my boat trailer with Rigid Torch (or whatever the new small single-LED are called, which are perfect trailer lights). I run a 9100 in my GC and freaking love it!

I hear you on that one. Your post just brought a couple of memories back.

I had an astro van years back that got led upgrades all around, including reverse light bulbs that were as bright as high beam headlamps. Numerous times I was asked by freshly blinded people about how I got such bright reverse lights. On one occasion, it was a rather large guy standing in front of his pickup that was backed into the spot across the aisle from me. He somewhat politely explained that they were so bright that he spilled some of his coffee down the front of his shirt as soon as I started backing out.

More recently, and when the SwitchPros was still new to me, I inadvertently flash grenaded 3 other drivers at a four way stop. I too have all of my forward lighting programmed to the trigger wire that is powered by the high beams, but forgot to disable that feature before trying to be nice and signal the others to go first. That's 54k lumen of white and amber light, on top of whatever the factory high beams put out. Right after neither car to my sides started moving, I noticed they were both rubbing their eyes. I decided to get the heck out of Dodge before they regained their sight, and was not surprised to be greeted by a middle finger from the woman going in the opposite direction, while rubbing her eyes with her free hand.

 

[bobholthaus]

I hear you on that one. Your post just brought a couple of memories back.

I had an astro van years back that got led upgrades all around, including reverse light bulbs that were as bright as high beam headlamps. Numerous times I was asked by freshly blinded people about how I got such bright reverse lights. On one occasion, it was a rather large guy standing in front of his pickup that was backed into the spot across the aisle from me. He somewhat politely explained that they were so bright that he spilled some of his coffee down the front of his shirt as soon as I started backing out.

More recently, and when the SwitchPros was still new to me, I inadvertently flash grenaded 3 other drivers at a four way stop. I too have all of my forward lighting programmed to the trigger wire that is powered by the high beams, but forgot to disable that feature before trying to be nice and signal the others to go first. That's 54k lumen of white and amber light, on top of whatever the factory high beams put out. Right after neither car to my sides started moving, I noticed they were both rubbing their eyes. I decided to get the heck out of Dodge before they regained their sight, and was not surprised to be greeted by a middle finger from the woman going in the opposite direction, while rubbing her eyes with her free hand.

Dude, I am laughing out loud. 54k of lumens.... goodnight (pun intended). Yes, the "flash to go" is a whole new thing when the light bar lazers their eyes!!! Thanks for the reply and understanding what I was getting at!

 

[bobholthaus]

Wait, I still need a reverse tap under the hood.... (I'm assuming that like on my GC, I'll find it in the JL underhood fuse box, for the 7-way trailer plug (which has it's own reverse circuit)). Thanks!

 

[bobholthaus]

Bump. Still need a reverse wire to tap under the hood, plus a high beam light to tap, to wire the two trigger inputs on my SwitchPros 9100. Thanks!

 

[FireAnt21]

Bump. Still need a reverse wire to tap under the hood, plus a high beam light to tap, to wire the two trigger inputs on my SwitchPros 9100. Thanks!

using the diagram in the original post you can see the fuses to tap off off.Pull the fuse test and tap off the non hot side with either a t tap or add a fuse.

 

[FireAnt21]

@bobholthaus try fuse f111 if you have trailer that will give you backup feed

 

[bobholthaus]

Thank you sir. I found it this weekend in the owners manual, and forgot to post it here. F111 it is indeed. Thank you!

btw, are these mini fuses or micro? I need to buy the fuse taps (and my Jeep is at AEV for its upfit)

 

[ErAcEr]

Thank you sir. I found it this weekend in the owners manual, and forgot to post it here. F111 it is indeed. Thank you!

btw, are these mini fuses or micro? I need to buy the fuse taps (and my Jeep is at AEV for its upfit)

I purchased micro2 fuse tap adapter off amazon to give my aftermarket led headlights a DRL effect. hope this is what your looking for.

 

[dragoneggs]

Thank you sir. I found it this weekend in the owners manual, and forgot to post it here. F111 it is indeed. Thank you!

btw, are these mini fuses or micro? I need to buy the fuse taps (and my Jeep is at AEV for its upfit)

Call them or stop by and pull it and measure. If they are worth their salt they can let you know in minutes. If I understand you right, a fuse tap is the way to go. Good luck.

 

[dcmdon]

Thank you sir. I found it this weekend in the owners manual, and forgot to post it here. F111 it is indeed. Thank you!

btw, are these mini fuses or micro? I need to buy the fuse taps (and my Jeep is at AEV for its upfit)

I'm trying to understand what you are doing, not criticizing you.

But if you want reverse lights that come on when the factory reverse lights come on, why not just tap into the factory reverse light wiring with a scotch lock or something similar??

The factory reverse light bulb probably draws more than factory LED reverse lights AND your ultra bright reverse light. So wiring shouldn't be an issue.

 

[bobholthaus]

I'm trying to understand what you are doing, not criticizing you.

But if you want reverse lights that come on when the factory reverse lights come on, why not just tap into the factory reverse light wiring with a scotch lock or something similar??

The factory reverse light bulb probably draws more than factory LED reverse lights AND your ultra bright reverse light. So wiring shouldn't be an issue.

Great question, I’m glad you’re asking. I’m using a Switch-Pros 9100 switching system which has two trigger inputs. I will wire one to the high beams, and one to the reverse lights; both get wired to the switch pros harness at the battery. What this system allows me to do is two things in one: I can manually turn on my rear reverse/work light when I want to do it manually (camping, loading, etc), AND if allows me to have it triggered on every time I go into reverse (I have the factory LED lights btw). The ‘two in one’ feature is what I love about switch pros (as well as not needing to wire in any relays and separate fuses for all of my circuits). The same is true for any lights I want to have go on with my high beams. I can have them triggered on; can quickly disable this ‘auto mode’ as I call it with a button press on the panel; and I can manually turn on the same lights when needed. There’s even a third function on the Switch pros called ‘master switch’, which allows me to make one button on the panel turn on any combo of any other switches on the panel. So for instance, I’ll be running my amber fogs on a switch; my white fogs on a switch; my driving lights on a switch; my reverse light on a switch; and potentially ditch lights on a switch. So I can take 1 of the 8 buttons and tell it turn on all of those lights with one single button press (and toggle them off with the same button). So when I get to camp and just want to light everything up, I can do it with one button press. Oh, and I can also do that, or control any switch, via their app and Bluetooth. So if I’m sitting at the bonfire and want some light to walk over to the vehicle, and let’s say it's locked, I can quickly jump in the app on my phone and turn on any light remotely. It’s super slick.

So that’s why I want the taps under the Hood. Does that make sense? If not, keep asking, this is how we all learn. Thanks.

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