Replaced both batteries 6 months ago...came out to a no start today.

[PMyers21]

2018 JLU, 3.6

I replaced both the main battery and aux battery around 6 months ago after having speratic starting issues. That turned out to be a bad starter, but I kept the newer batteries anyways.

So, today I go out and it didn't want to start. Jumped it and now I have this light on still. Does the aux battery just need to be charged back up longer than the 20min drive into work would allow?

My only guess as to why it drained was my dashcam (blackview).

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[BIGW0RM]

Are you useing power magic pro attachment? If so, it might be allowing too much power drain before cut off. I had lots of power issues with my DR900S back when I had those.

 

[PMyers21]

Are you useing power magic pro attachment? If so, it might be allowing too much power drain before cut off. I had lots of power issues with my DR900S back when I had those.

No, I have the DR900X-2CH Plus camera that's wired in. I haven't had issues at all since installing it a few months ago.

 

[BIGW0RM]

Ah that model has the voltage monitoring built into it. I would try raising it up to the highest value. When I had mine, it required the power magic power adapter which had voltage toggle settings. It killed my battery once and I had to raise mine to the highest setting. And even then, I think it drained my battery a second time. I ended up moving to a Garmin Mini and never looked back.

 

[Fudster]

2018 JLU, 3.6

I replaced both the main battery and aux battery around 6 months ago after having spermatic starting issues. That turned out to be a bad starter, but I kept the newer batteries anyways.

So, today I go out and it didn't want to start. Jumped it and now I have this light on still. Does the aux battery just need to be charged back up longer than the 20min drive into work would allow?

My only guess as to why it drained was my dashcam (blackview).

Hi Phil:

I have a couple of theories.

1) Your 2018 has TSB 18-092-19. This is a dealer flash that is part of the later production 2018 JLs, and all those that came after, but not the earliest models of that freshman year of production.

2) Dual AGM battery JLs, like yours, will not crank if the ESS/Aux battery is dead. Those with the aforementioned TSB though, will, on subsequent attempts by the operator to crank--if the ESS/Aux battery is dead, attempt to crank off the main battery. If successful they will throw an ESS off message in the dash (i.e. EVIC) as I see in your picture, and operate only off of the main battery, cranking on first try thereafter. Only the introduction of an energized ESS/Aux battery will restore the default behavior on the next operator attempt to crank.

Fact: your JL has both batteries hooked up in parallel at all times (positive terminal to positive terminal, negative to negative) but a) an instant when you crank--where the ESS/Aux battery is isolated to test it, and b) during ESS events (which have been shut off for you) where the ESS/Aux battery runs vehicle appliances, sparring the main battery to effect the bulk of the work in getting your engine cranked post ESS event.

Fact: placing your jumpers on the main battery's terminals will normally charge both batteries because of this parallel connection. But I suspect you didn't leave them there long enough for the ESS/Aux battery to acquire adequate charge, or...that battery can't accept charge because it's defective. (Notice how the manual says to leave the jumpers there for a while. I believe this is code speak to charge the ESS/Aux battery.)

Back to theory:

3) When you attempted to crank with the jumper cables on, the vehicle, with this TSB installed, may have failed because of the isolation of the ESS/Aux battery for an instant for testing, as mentioned, during the crank, separating it from the main battery and your jumpers. Determined by the vehicle to be dead (the ESS battery that is), the next attempt you made, because you have the TSB, was against the main battery only, complete with its energized jumper cables, and that worked--the vehicle turned off ESS as mentioned, because you lack an energized ESS/Aux battery to operate appliances off of during ESS events, and such ESS events should not be energized from the main battery because it robs the battery of cranking power post an ESS event.

Fact: when an ESS event concludes, both batteries are normally brought back into a parallel connection to both crank the engine: the main battery, spared during the ESS event, barring most of the cranking load.

~~~~~~~~

Ok...enough theory Phil. Let's talk about steps to take going forward. I'm going to assume that your dash camera is energized in parking mode with the engine off. If so, it will, unless you've specially wired things (I'll bet you haven't) acquire its power from both batteries, as these batteries, as mentioned, are in parallel when the vehicle is at rest.

I would encourage you to only operate that camera in parking mode if it has a voltage cutoff feature. Further, especially in colder climates and months, I would encourage you to set that cutoff at around from 12.3 to 12.5 volts, not lower.

I would also encourage you to have your batteries independently load tested. Even if you own a load tester, this does NOT imply putting the load tester's leads on the main battery, as such action would form a composite load test of both batteries and yield little significant information about the abilities of each individual battery. If you would like guidance on how to easily isolate each battery (you'll need a wrench) please ask and I'll gladly provide you with easy guidance on how to do so.

It is my educated guess that with the ESS off light, that your vehicle has taken your ESS/Aux battery out of the electrical schematic of the vehicle temporarily and as such, is neither tapping nor charging it during vehicle operation. A such, I am guessing that hooking up jumpers to the main battery while the vehicle is at rest will not charge this battery either.

If you would like guidance on how to try to charge your ESS battery:

1) Find the PDC (Power Distribution Center). It is the black plastic box in the engine bay, closest to the sky, closest to the passenger's front seat.

2) Lift its cover up and off.

3) On the driver's side of this box are a series of metal terminals running front to back in a row. The one closest to the front of the vehicle is called N1. Its other end is the ESS/Aux battery's positive terminal on your vehicle. Placing your jumper cable's positive on N1, and its negative on the main battery's negative (yes, the main battery) will charge the ESS/Aux battery. The only question is what else, if anything it will charge. If your parked vehicle has isolated the two batteries as I suspect, this action will only attempt charge the ESS/Aux battery. If it hasn't, then this action will attempt charge both batteries. (If the two batteries haven't been isolated, N1 is connected to N2 right next to it, which is connected to the main battery's positive terminal and both batteries will received your charge.)

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

It is entirely possible that your dash camera has nothing or something to do with this.

I too run a dash camera while parked, but I do so off of a separate battery. This is a whole conversation in its own right that deals with what batteries are safe for placement inside the vehicle cabin and work in the cold. Your lead acid batteries under the hood are best not suited for in cabin placement (sure the Prius has one there but it's vented) even though they can work in below freezing temps. Lithium Iron Phosphate batteries are much better for in cabin use, but barring special provisions aren't for climates below freezing.

I went with a small Silicon Dioxide (a.k.a. Lead Crystal) battery to power my dash camera in parking mode. This chemistry is very human friendly and operates in vast temperature ranges. I also have a roof rack for other reasons that allows me to have a small solar panel on it to trickle charge this dedicated dash camera battery.

~~~~~

This may be overkill. Perhaps you have access to house current where you park and can plug in a trickle charger to replenish battery losses from your dash camera and keep the ESS battery and system working. Perhaps you are fine that ESS doesn't engage, as long as the vehicle cranks without issue. Perhaps you'd like to turn ESS off permanently and run with just the main battery.

Your wishes can serve as future guidance on how I can direct you.

 

[Bill_P]

I just replaced my main battery this weekend and deleted the Aux. I had started to get the ESS warning light and the "Start/Stop not available Battery Charging" messages. Took about 5 minutes.

 

[Fudster]

I just replaced my main battery this weekend and deleted the Aux. I had started to get the ESS warning light and the "Start/Stop not available Battery Charging" messages. Took about 5 minutes.

Bill: this may form part of a solution to the OPs issues. His ESS battery may have died having nothing to due with the dash camera; or even the dash camera was enough to push that battery over the edge.

I would though like, and I think you'd agree, such steps to not be in isolation to making sure that the OPs dash camera has set and working voltage cutoffs to insure his ability to successfully cold crank--such a camera not robbing him of adequate cranking voltage.

 

[Zenmaster238]

I

having spermatic starting issues.

hate it when I have "spermatic" issues as well.

 

[BIGW0RM]

I highly think its the blackvue camera voltage settings. They are widely known to cause such issues. Its one of the reasons they sell a stand alone battery pack. Their voltage cut off solutions have never really worked well. Ive had three versions of their cameras and the battery back up pack they sell is the only solution that worked 24/7 without draining my batteries.

I suspect it slowly sucked the power out of his battery. I would discount the camera, jump the jeep and see what happens.

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