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Repair or replace brake tube

OminousSkitter

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So. I was upgrading my brake lines (hoses) to crown braided stainless, and I effed up. I accidentally cross-threaded the connection between the hose and the tube on the front passenger brake line. The hose end looks fine; the tube end is shot.

I believe the part that I need is 68282410AC (front passenger brake tube) if I am going to replace the entire tube.

d96d9312dbd05b38783a9c30165253fb.png

Should be #1 in that diagram.

The cost of the tube is about the same as the price for a flare tool. I have never flared tube before, and I never expect to need to do this again. It doesn't look too difficult based on YouTube. What I'd need to cut and flare is right at the end, so if I go that route I'm going to lose like a quarter inch of tube. That said, these are my brakes, and I don't want to mess them up more than I already have.

I guess my questions are:
  • How big of a pain is it to re-run that tube? It looks like it drops down a bit and runs across the front of the engine bay. At least it's just the front passenger and nothing in the rear.
  • Given my inexperience flaring and these are my brakes, is it better just to replace it?
  • If I repair, what's the name of/where can I buy the screw piece on the tube (looks like a hollowed out bolt -- the male end that presses the flare against the female end on the hose)?
  • Anyone in the Park City, Utah area have a flaring tool I can borrow?
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Kidder212

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If it was mine I would just replace the tube. I have tried to flare ends before and they leaked
 
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OminousSkitter

OminousSkitter

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Thanks. All good information. I definitely wouldn’t’ve thought about corrosion at the flare/cut. I was going to bring in the hose to make sure the new fitting works, but everything is cheap enough that I think just replacing is the best. The extra time installing that tube will be a good reminder about cross-threading. Sucks. Oh well.
 

Kevin Mojito

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Did not know Crown was making lines for the JL yet. I only knew about Power Stop and EVO.
 
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OminousSkitter

OminousSkitter

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Kevin Mojito

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Do they have all the factory style brackets on the lines? Are they any longer then stock?
 
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OminousSkitter

OminousSkitter

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Do they have all the factory style brackets on the lines? Are they any longer then stock?
Yes, all mounting brackets are there needed for the hose, but the parking/e-brake cable clips aren't there; zip ties work though. How the female fitting for the tube fits with the frame mount is a little different; I'm going to call them tomorrow about that. They're a little longer than stock. I'll take pictures and measurements of the front later today. Don't really feel like messing with the rear at the moment.
 
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OminousSkitter

OminousSkitter

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I measured front hose length not including the fittings/connectors, for I had Sport brake lines and replaced them with Rubicon/big brake lines. Rusty's measures 36" (again, not the fittings/ends), and stock measured 30".

OEM female fitting:
IMG_0607.jpeg

(It's hex/rounded on one end for alignment)

Rusty's female fitting:
IMG_0608.jpeg

(The part that sticks through the bracket is completely round with a larger hex area further back)
 
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OminousSkitter

OminousSkitter

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I got a PM about what I ended up doing, so I figured I'd update this thread as well. Looking at how the tube is all routed, without a vehicle lift or removing half the contents of my engine bay, I didn't think I could snake the new tube up to the master cylinder. I ended up cutting off the flare, replacing the fitting, and reflaring the tube.

The fitting I got -- while the right thread size -- did not fit over the JL's tube due to the coating. I ended up drilling it out slightly and it slid right on. I got a short length of brake tube (copper) to practice on before moving to my car.

While the flaring tool I got gripped the copper just fine, it did not want to grip the OEM tube and slid the first two times I tried flaring it. I finally was able to wrench it down enough to get it to hold. I had about 1/16" between the end of the flaring tool and the fitting. If you end up going this route, be careful about which fitting you buy, as there is not much extra tube length and other fittings I had were too long to work with the flaring tool.

I got everything pressurized with a power bleeder, and it holds pressure without leaks. Overall a PITA and a lesson learned.
 

Kevin Mojito

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Good to hear you have it working again.
I went with the PowerStop brand. They look just like the pictures you have. Only red in color. I will say that these fittings are tough to get started straight. After seeing your troubles I went very slow and restarted a few times. These do not thread in by hand at all, at least mine did not.

I felt the stock brakes on stock wheels and tires were good. When I added the 35's on heavy beadlock wheels, the pedal felt soft. The S/S line do help to firm up the pedal again. I would say worth it, just go slow and make sure it started straight.
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