Repair or replace my 2.0 engine

[tcarpenter87]

So long story but fairly certain my 2.0 is shot. Had a no start issue checked some things changed a few but ultimately ended up checking compression. Results were low to almost no compression in the first cylinder, low in 2nd and 3rd, and barely 100 in the 4th. Stelantis likely isn’t going to cover the warranty due to “suspected pcm tampering” which if there was it was from before I owned it. Any suggestions on my next step? Any good sources for crate motors in case I have to swap it myself? Any and all info is welcome and appreciated

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[TheBirdie72]

392 hemi swap.

 

[chevymitchell]

So long story but fairly certain my 2.0 is shot. Had a no start issue checked some things changed a few but ultimately ended up checking compression. Results were low to almost no compression in the first cylinder, low in 2nd and 3rd, and barely 100 in the 4th. Stelantis likely isn’t going to cover the warranty due to “suspected pcm tampering” which if there was it was from before I owned it. Any suggestions on my next step? Any good sources for crate motors in case I have to swap it myself? Any and all info is welcome and appreciated

I would determine the cause of the low compression before making a decision on replacing the engine. Check the IAC valve first. Its job is to literally starve the engine of air. Your compression test will certainly fail if this is stuck at all.

You should be able to bypass this by holding the throttle blade wide open when doing the compression test. If the blade is closed and the IAC is stuck, then there's no air getting to the cylinder for the test.

If this checks good, then move to head gasket troubleshooting. See if the same cylinders failing the compression test, even if you can only get 100 psi in the cylinder, can pass a leak down test.

There's a few things you can do first before putting another motor in. That little 2.0L, being inline, really simplifies everything. One head to deal with is nice. This would be a fun project to have.

 

[NickJar]

I had a jk that blew an engine at 98500. I bought it with 78k on it. To go through the warranty, all I had to do was provide that I changed the oil at the scheduled times. They said they didn’t care what the previous owner did.

if I were you I would fight it hard if it was the previous owner. Don’t admit to anything, and be the squeaky wheel.

 

[tcarpenter87]

392 hemi swap.

Haha yea haven’t looked at the price but I’d imagine it’s out of my budget. Would be amazing however

I would determine the cause of the low compression before making a decision on replacing the engine. Check the IAC valve first. Its job is to literally starve the engine of air. Your compression test will certainly fail if this is stuck at all.

You should be able to bypass this by holding the throttle blade wide open when doing the compression test. If the blade is closed and the IAC is stuck, then there's no air getting to the cylinder for the test.

If this checks good, then move to head gasket troubleshooting. See if the same cylinders failing the compression test, even if you can only get 100 psi in the cylinder, can pass a leak down test.

There's a few things you can do first before putting another motor in. That little 2.0L, being inline, really simplifies everything. One head to deal with is nice. This would be a fun project to have.

ok thanks I’ll definitely check this out

 

[m3reno]

392 has different body mount points. Do a search to find out all the differences.

 

[MtCamper]

I'm no lawyer, but FCA can suspect all they want. In order to not honor warranty they must PROVE any mods caused the problem. Look for oil and filter receipts and push for a factory fix.

 

[mwilk012]

Give us the long story.

How hot did it get?

Try a cylinder leakdown test before giving up on it. Pulling the head and replacing valves wouldn’t be too bad, other than parts availability being a mess I’m sure. If the cylinders are egged or rings are slagged out of it, it’s not worth opening up other than for curiosity’s sake.

 

[tcarpenter87]

Ok so long story is that I was accelerating…. Hard haha like pedal to the floor because idk I was out on country roads that’s just what you do sometimes. Well after a short while engine just lost power. Didn’t lose electrical power but engine power. Pulled over and tried to start it up but it just cranked. Plugged in my scanner and the only code I had was a crankshaft position sensor code. Cleared that code but unsurprisingly it still didn’t start. Towed it back to my place then eventually to the dealer. They pulled the plugs and they were toast. Electrodes were burnt off all 4 of them. The dealership asked me if I had a performance chip on it because they haven’t seen this happen before, especially on an engine with only 27,000 miles. Anyway they said that there were a couple of strange codes and they saw a superchips sticker in my window. I do have a superchips flashpaq but that doesn’t have the ability to change the performance only tire size, Speedo, tpms etc. anyway because of that they want me to authorize a 1500 dollar diagnostic which Chrysler may or may not cover depending on what they find. So I towed it home changed the plugs, crank sensor, and checked compression. Since none of that worked I’m inclined to tow it back and roll the dice. At least with the diagnostic

 

[aldo98229]

Neither automakers nor dealers have to prove a thing to deny warranty.

Yes, I know, that’s not what the law says. Good luck fighting them.

 

[58Willys]

Plug were toast. Like how? Burned center electrode? Strange to find something like that In a modern PCM controlled motor. Pedal to the floor for a short while, like how short - 2 minutes? We’re the plugs OEM? If not we’re they correct heat range? If replaced and someone used anti-seize, we’re they properly torqued? Loose plug can let air enter and lean things out. Can you post picture of plugs? Are you sure your chip didn’t advance timing too much? Was throttle blade fully open when you did compression test? Chevymitchell is onto to something with the IAC.

Lots of possible causes here. Find out what is really happening before proceeding. Perform a leak down test. IMO, dealer is correct in asking for a diagnostic fee, but it should be hourly, not a set $1500.

 

[mwilk012]

Sounds like you jumped time.

 

[58Willys]

Sounds like you jumped time.

Yup, was just coming back to post that possibility. Also, does R&R’ing a CPS require a re-learn procedureon thos motor? Some do.

 

[mwilk012]

Yup, was just coming back to post that possibility. Also, does R&R’ing a CPS require a re-learn procedureon thos motor? Some do.

Should always be done on an engine with VVT.
But, a sensor doesn’t cause low compression.

 

[Shibadog]

Good advice given on what to check. If you engine is in fact toast replacing with another 2.0 would certainly be the easiest as it’d be a straight drop in. Find a 2.0 Jeep that’s been rear ended and you’re good. With the crank sensor being off I’d think jumped timing May be the problem. IF that’s the case pistons may have hit valves-either damaging the valves or holing the piston. Either would kill compression. Have you looked with a scope?

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