Reminder: 5 quarts of oil to avoid oil overfill

[DanW]

When compared to my 2014 Mustang, my wrangler is much better. I remember on my Mustang, there was a metal shaving the size of a clipped toenail by the rear window sill and they just painted over the top of it. Lol. Craziness!

My Ford is a 2015, the new style Transit. The little trim pieces fall off everywhere, from the doors, the seat belt covers, sun visors, mirrors within the sun visors, rear view mirror....all fell off. It has had a bunch of safety recalls, too, from seatbelts to drive shaft coupling to others like splash protection for the engine. The OEM brake pads wore out at 20k miles. Our previous Chevy Express went 100k on the brake pads! We like this van, but that thing can't touch my JL for quality or design. The trim pieces alone on the JL are MUCH better designed and made. The van is comfortable, for sure, and has gobs of power out of the Ecoboost, and it gets pretty good gas mileage even with a full load of passengers and luggage (19mpg). I just get sick of things falling or breaking off.

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[WXman]

Today I had my oil changed again and without even mentioning it they used 5 quarts. That was refreshing to see. Maybe their info finally has been updated.

 

[mwilk012]

My Ford is a 2015, the new style Transit. The little trim pieces fall off everywhere, from the doors, the seat belt covers, sun visors, mirrors within the sun visors, rear view mirror....all fell off. It has had a bunch of safety recalls, too, from seatbelts to drive shaft coupling to others like splash protection for the engine. The OEM brake pads wore out at 20k miles. Our previous Chevy Express went 100k on the brake pads! We like this van, but that thing can't touch my JL for quality or design. The trim pieces alone on the JL are MUCH better designed and made. The van is comfortable, for sure, and has gobs of power out of the Ecoboost, and it gets pretty good gas mileage even with a full load of passengers and luggage (19mpg). I just get sick of things falling or breaking off.

I drive a 2015 Transit that is owned by the government (so, not taken care of at all), and it is scary to drive and so loud I can't hear the radio playing half the time. Getting back in my Jeep at the end of the day feels so good.

 

[MSteeves]

So ... I changed the erl myself at 2000 miles. Then at 6000 I decided to use one of the Jeep Wave freebies. The tire rotation, you see.

Took it to the local dealer (not the one where we bought the Heep; that one is 90 miles down the pike). Left it there, went back when they called, checked the invoice ... and there it was. Six quarts. So I axed the service manager, hey, don't JL's take five quarts? This is a JL, not a JK. He insisted they take six. I said, look it up. He looked it up, online, and said ... "They take five-and-a-half quarts." I am thinking, how much trouble can I get into for strangling this guy where he stands. Then he calls the kid who did the oil change and asked him how much he put it. The kid says, "Five-and-a-half quarts." And then the service manager says, "Did you check the dipstick?" "I did," quoth the lad, "It was good." So the accomplice had left to take it back to work. Later that afternoon, I checked the dipstick myself. Damned oil is 3/4" above the highest safe range, the north end of the notch on that metal thingie at the end of the cable.

Drove it home, slow, monitor oil pressure all the way. If I got up to 40, OP started fluctuating wildly, from 10-80 psi. I kept it at 35, and the OP stayed at 31, which is where it has been once it's warmed up. I suspect the fluctuating was due to the crankshaft really slapping the oil surface and foaming it up. So do I get into a pissing contest with the lying weasels at the dealership, or just take care of it myself. Screw it, I think, I'll just take care of it, and never darken that dealership's doorway again. It's my own fault, you see. We didn't get the Heep there because the salesman was totally clueless about JL's v. JK's. It's my own fault for walking into a pit of incompetent indifference. I should mention that the dealer where we got the Heep gave a much better impression of competence.

So I got a jug of Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, a Wix W10010XP filter, and I'll drain it all and do the whole thing myself. For all I know, they've got olive oil in there, and a filter for a 1910 Hupmobile.

And at this point, I'm wondering if they bothered to do the tire rotation. I should have marked the tires with a bit of chalk on the inside sidewall.

Thanks for nuthin', Jeep Wave!

Other than that, we remain ecstatically happy with our JL. Funnest ride we've owned since our 1968 FJ-40 thirty years ago.

 

[Litfuse]

So ... I changed the erl myself at 2000 miles. Then at 6000 I decided to use one of the Jeep Wave freebies. The tire rotation, you see.

Took it to the local dealer (not the one where we bought the Heep; that one is 90 miles down the pike). Left it there, went back when they called, checked the invoice ... and there it was. Six quarts. So I axed the service manager, hey, don't JL's take five quarts? This is a JL, not a JK. He insisted they take six. I said, look it up. He looked it up, online, and said ... "They take five-and-a-half quarts." I am thinking, how much trouble can I get into for strangling this guy where he stands. Then he calls the kid who did the oil change and asked him how much he put it. The kid says, "Five-and-a-half quarts." And then the service manager says, "Did you check the dipstick?" "I did," quoth the lad, "It was good." So the accomplice had left to take it back to work. Later that afternoon, I checked the dipstick myself. Damned oil is 3/4" above the highest safe range, the north end of the notch on that metal thingie at the end of the cable.

Drove it home, slow, monitor oil pressure all the way. If I got up to 40, OP started fluctuating wildly, from 10-80 psi. I kept it at 35, and the OP stayed at 31, which is where it has been once it's warmed up. I suspect the fluctuating was due to the crankshaft really slapping the oil surface and foaming it up. So do I get into a pissing contest with the lying weasels at the dealership, or just take care of it myself. Screw it, I think, I'll just take care of it, and never darken that dealership's doorway again. It's my own fault, you see. We didn't get the Heep there because the salesman was totally clueless about JL's v. JK's. It's my own fault for walking into a pit of incompetent indifference. I should mention that the dealer where we got the Heep gave a much better impression of competence.

So I got a jug of Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, a Wix W10010XP filter, and I'll drain it all and do the whole thing myself. For all I know, they've got olive oil in there, and a filter for a 1910 Hupmobile.

And at this point, I'm wondering if they bothered to do the tire rotation. I should have marked the tires with a bit of chalk on the inside sidewall.

Thanks for nuthin', Jeep Wave!

Other than that, we remain ecstatically happy with our JL. Funnest ride we've owned since our 1968 FJ-40 thirty years ago.

First, I agree how much it sucks that dealers keep overfilling JLs on oil changes. I don’t get it how it keeps happening. On another note, the reason you saw fluctuations in oil pressure is due to the two stage oil pump. It is meant to do that. So no worries there.

 

[WXman]

Yeah, the dual stage oil pump will typically stay below 40 PSI at less than 3,000 RPM, and below 80 PSI at more than 3,000 RPM. It's normal for this engine.

 

[MSteeves]

First, I agree how much it sucks that dealers keep overfilling JLs on oil changes. I don’t get it how it keeps happening. On another note, the reason you saw fluctuations in oil pressure is due to the two stage oil pump. It is meant to do that. So no worries there.

Right. But normally the OP kicks to about 60-ish, hangs there for momentarily, then drops back to 31-32. This time, it was fluctuating back and forth, high to low, and would hold till I backed off on speed/RPMs.

 

[Avar928]

Had my first oil change on my 2.0 and they put in 6 quarts even though I reminded them it was only 5. I checked the dipstick and wasn't comfortable with the levels so they dropped it and did it again.

Always check the paperwork.

 

[DanW]

Had my first oil change on my 2.0 and they put in 6 quarts even though I reminded them it was only 5. I checked the dipstick and wasn't comfortable with the levels so they dropped it and did it again.

Always check the paperwork.

The 2.0 is only 5 quarts? I didn't realize that.

 

[WXman]

So I checked mine today and it's still high on the stick. It appears they put in 6 quarts even though the paperwork says 5. I did phone them and talk to them about it after it happened the first time. Appears they've updated their system/specs, but the techs are still over-filling anyhow. Lack of communication I suppose.

I still have 2 free oil changes remaining, but I'm considering doing it myself from now on. I don't like the 0W20 "oil" anyhow. By the time I get to 15,000 miles it'll be summer, so, great time to switch back to an appropriate viscosity and do the job correctly in my driveway.

 

[WranglerMan]

So I checked mine today and it's still high on the stick. It appears they put in 6 quarts even though the paperwork says 5. I did phone them and talk to them about it after it happened the first time. Appears they've updated their system/specs, but the techs are still over-filling anyhow. Lack of communication I suppose.

I still have 2 free oil changes remaining, but I'm considering doing it myself from now on. I don't like the 0W20 "oil" anyhow. By the time I get to 15,000 miles it'll be summer, so, great time to switch back to an appropriate viscosity and do the job correctly in my driveway.

What’s wrong with 0-20W in the summer, I know it’s thin but it’s also synthetic so shouldn’t it hold up in summer heat

 

[DanW]

What’s wrong with 0-20W in the summer, I know it’s thin but it’s also synthetic so shouldn’t it hold up in summer heat

It does. I ran mine hard all last summer with Mobil 1 0w20 EP. I had an analysis done on it after 4k miles and it was fine. I'll be doing an analysis on the current fill, M1 AP 0w20, when it has over 7k miles on it, including a big trip to Moab and back. Lots of time on it in low range doing some heavy lifting on the trails. I'm betting it looks great and could go further with no issues.

 

[WXman]

What’s wrong with 0-20W in the summer, I know it’s thin but it’s also synthetic so shouldn’t it hold up in summer heat

Summer is the worst season for thin watery oil like that. It will never protect the way 5W30 will, especially on a hot summer day, which is why the 3.6L was originally designed on 5W30 and the Wrangler spec'd it. The bottom end of the engine didn't change since then.

If you get "good" oil analysis results on a 20 weight oil, that just means you'll get better results on a 30 weight. I'm seeing that on my car right now.

 

[MikeLewisMusic]

So I checked mine today and it's still high on the stick. It appears they put in 6 quarts even though the paperwork says 5. I did phone them and talk to them about it after it happened the first time. Appears they've updated their system/specs, but the techs are still over-filling anyhow. Lack of communication I suppose.

I still have 2 free oil changes remaining, but I'm considering doing it myself from now on. I don't like the 0W20 "oil" anyhow. By the time I get to 15,000 miles it'll be summer, so, great time to switch back to an appropriate viscosity and do the job correctly in my driveway.

Which dealer did you use?

 

[DanW]

If you get "good" oil analysis results on a 20 weight oil, that just means you'll get better results on a 30 weight. I'm seeing that on my car right now.

Not necessarily true. This is waay open to debate, as there is no conclusive evidence. Check out BITOG where a guy ran the same engine in a similar driving pattern on a 20 weight oil and a 30 weight, for the same mileage. He did lab analysis of both. The 20 weight came back with lower wear metals than the 30. Why? One possibility is that most engine wear occurs at start-up. Several of the largest oil brands have advertised this. If that's true, then the 0w20 has an advantage. I wouldn't call it conclusive by any means. What I would say, though, is that it flies in the face of the idea that a 30 weight is better and will automatically result in a better UOA (used oil analysis). Honda and Toyota are leading the way with lighter oils, with Honda now either looking at or even requiring a 0w8 in one of their engines. Both Toyota and Honda are requiring 0w16 in their flagships right now. I doubt they are going to throw their reputation for longevity in the garbage can for three tenths of a mile per gallon. No way.

Would I run 0w20 in a car specifying 5w30? No. But I also would not run 5w30 in an engine that was never specified for it, either. The 3.6 in the JL has had some significant redesign on the upper end, particularly the valve train. Tolerances are tighter. I'd be hesitant to go to a 5w30. Will it harm it? I doubt it. If my engine started having oil consumption issues, I'd probably try a heavier weight to see if it helped. I've done that before with mixed success on other engines, including my JK's 3.8.

I'll try and find a link to that discussion on BITOG. It is probably 30 pages long and full of debate. Why? Because it is inconclusive. I will say this, though. I firmly believe that a high quality brand name full synthetic 0w20 will outperform a conventional or blend 5w30 from any brand. Besides, there is so much variation between oils of the same weight, blanket statements can be risky.

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