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Reliability of 2.0T versus 3.6 etorque?

zdr

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The OP's original question was reliability of the 2.0 vs the 3.6 W/ Etorque. It seems as if this thread became a 2.0 vs 3.6 debate with the 2.0 being considered less reliable but I didn't see a lot of Etorque being mentioned as if the 2.0 was being compared to a 3.6 without.
I have a 3.6 6 speed but have driven a 3.0 Ecodiesel and my girl has a 3.6 with etorque. I havn't driven or heard a 2.0. I'm very grateful for the knowledgable posters on this forum, very helpful.
To take it a step further, say you were concerned about the longevity/reliability on these two platforms, 2.0T vs. 3.6w/Etorque and the ability to perform and sustain power with 35's (4.10 Rubicon). From what I have read on here, the 2.0 handles this a little better? The 2.0T is also approx. $1,250 cheaper.
Thanks!
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DanW

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The OP's original question was reliability of the 2.0 vs the 3.6 W/ Etorque. It seems as if this thread became a 2.0 vs 3.6 debate with the 2.0 being considered less reliable but I didn't see a lot of Etorque being mentioned as if the 2.0 was being compared to a 3.6 without.
I have a 3.6 6 speed but have driven a 3.0 Ecodiesel and my girl has a 3.6 with etorque. I havn't driven or heard a 2.0. I'm very grateful for the knowledgable posters on this forum, very helpful.
To take it a step further, say you were concerned about the longevity/reliability on these two platforms, 2.0T vs. 3.6w/Etorque and the ability to perform and sustain power with 35's (4.10 Rubicon). From what I have read on here, the 2.0 handles this a little better? The 2.0T is also approx. $1,250 cheaper.
Thanks!
Either will pull 35's just fine with 4.10 gearing. My brother has a Gladiator with 3.6/auto, 4.10's, and 35's. Never a complaint about power, and that JT is what, 400 to 600 lbs heavier? My 3.6 did with a manual and I think the auto does it just a little better. The only reason I re-geared to 4.56 was to make 6th gear useful again on long highway drives. It wasn't really a necessity.
 

OllieChristopher

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Either will pull 35's just fine with 4.10 gearing.
That is a bit subjective depending on what "fine" means to you. A stock Rubicon would require at least a 4.39 gear ratio after switching to 35's in order to get the same rpm to mph ratio. Then you factor in weight of the tire/wheel combination, rolling mass, etc and disappointment can come quickly.

Jeep JL engineers have 4.56 gears for the Recon package. I know with 100% certainty I would not go up to a 35" tire without a whole bunch of modifications including the gearing.
 

DanW

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That is a bit subjective depending on what "fine" means to you. A stock Rubicon would require at least a 4.39 gear ratio after switching to 35's in order to get the same rpm to mph ratio. Then you factor in weight of the tire/wheel combination, rolling mass, etc and disappointment can come quickly.

Jeep JL engineers have 4.56 gears for the Recon package. I know with 100% certainty I would not go up to a 35" tire without a whole bunch of modifications including the gearing.
I agree. It is just an opinion. But a qualified one, since I have about 45k or so on mine with 35's and 4.10 gearing on my JLUR/3.6/manual.

The issue that made me go to 4.56 was 6th gear. And only after I went from 35" KO2's to Grabber X3 mud tires with slightly larger diameter and greater rolling resistance. If I'd stuck with the KO2's, I would not have re-geared. 1st through 5th had zero issue pulling 35's, on or off-road, crawling or running sand dunes. It was purely a highway/6th gear decision. My biggest worry, in fact, was making 1st gear too short.

I won't be re-gearing when my wife's JLUR auto/3.6 eventually gets 35's. It isn't worth it since I usually don't perceive 7 to 8 shifts, or even really 6-8, for that matter.
 

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I don't have 35s yet, so this is just speculation. I've always felt that my stock 2.0 JLR would benefit from spending a little more time in gear and not shifting, which would be the end result of a 35" tire.

Think of how the drivetrain responds in 4-low: The transmission can't possibly shift fast enough to keep the engine off the rev limiter if you go WOT, and then you get this huge delay while you wait for the next gear. With some gear/tire combinations this is probably also possible to do in 2-high... and I think it is sort of happening with the stock 2.0 Rubicon. Obviously the 3.6/manual is a different situation that I can't comment on.

This might also be one of the reasons the Diesel doesn't get the 4.10 ratio (and because it doesn't need it in 4-low anyway).
 

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I didnt read all the replies so if Im repeating what someone else said, sorry.

IMO the 2.0 is the funnier of the 2 engines by far. Its lower rpm torque, it ability to push the brick through the wind, its ability to spin my 35" tires on dry pavement, etc. Its just a fun engine.
I also have a 3.6 in a durango. As well as driven a 3.6 in a JL. I didnt like the constant shifting on the interstate with the 3.6 JL. I didnt like the lack of low end power in the 3.6 JL.
I do love the smoothness of the 3.6 in my Durango. It is low and fairly aerodynamic so it does not shift much on the highway. It doesn't need the low rpm power in the durango because it just rolls much easier than the Jeep.

I really like the 3.6 engine. It is much more refined, and IMO its an excellent engine for the Durango. I do not like it in a Jeep.
I really like the 2.0 in my Jeep, even with 35".

As for as reliablity, Ive no doubts the 3.6 will live a very long life with half assed maintenance. Surely longer than the chassis its in.
I expect my 2.0 will live longer than my JL will. If it doesn't, I'll fix it or replace it. I expect more maintenance, more often spark plug changes, maybe some valve cleaning, and certainly more oil changes.

But it was really an easy decision for me to buy a 2.0T Jeep. And I had already owned the 3.6 Durango for 100k miles.

Hopefully this helps someone. If it doesn't, will at least I killed a few minutes. Im bored.


edit, My Jeep with 2.0 is Rubicon has 4.10. My durango with 3.6 has 3.45 or similar gears with 8sp trans. The JL 3.6 that I drove was a willys with 3.45 or whatever gears those have. Just for transparency.
 

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My biggest worry, in fact, was making 1st gear too short.
With running 35's a gear ratio of 4.56 is going top be near the same as the stock 4.10 gearing with factory 33's. My biggest concern with running larger and heavier tires is breakage and accelerated component wear. There is just no way of getting around it. The engine is going to be the least of the problems.

Both the 3.6 and 2.0 are proving to be reliable power plants regardless of tire size.
 

DanW

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With running 35's a gear ratio of 4.56 is going top be near the same as the stock 4.10 gearing with factory 33's. My biggest concern with running larger and heavier tires is breakage and accelerated component wear. There is just no way of getting around it. The engine is going to be the least of the problems.

Both the 3.6 and 2.0 are proving to be reliable power plants regardless of tire size.
It's close, but a little bit shorter. But it turned out to be fine. I think you are right that 4.39 would be almost exact, tire brand size variations notwithstanding.

I agree with you 100% on weight and component wear. That's why I maxed out with 33's on my JK and won't go bigger than 35's on the JL. Keeping weight down on both has been a priority. There can be as much as 13 lbs or even more difference in the same size 35" tire! For example, KO2's are around 64lbs while I've seen others up to 77lbs (Nittos Trail Grapplers, IIRC).

So far, though, the JLs with 37's seem to be holding up. Time will tell.

My old JKUR with 33's is pushing 170k with LOTS of off-roading and all I've had to do is replace the cheapo original ball joints. I know that in other places in the world where their lives depend on 4x4s, (Africa), you never see big giant tires. 33's are about as big as I've seen there. Wear and tear on the vehicle is exactly why. They don't like to break in lion country.
 

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I know with 100% certainty I would not go up to a 35" tire without a whole bunch of modifications including the gearing.
Chris,

You are correct that this is all very subjective.

Personally, I'm really enjoying my 2019 JL 2 Door Sport 3.6L Auto (3.45 gears) setup with the Mopar Lift and 35's. The ZF8-based transmission handles them like it was designed to. After learning that I like 8th gear on the highway via AutoStick, it now selects 8th just about as often as it did with the stock 31's. So while I indeed lost (automatic) high gear when the 35's we're first installed, it only had taken a few hundred highway miles to get it back. Yes, agreed with some manual coaxing but 8th is again in my transmission's vocabulary.

I also concur that with the MT6, higher gear ratios are probably more of a necessity on anything larger than 33's.

I was paranoid up-front that I'd likely have to invest in re-gearing after installing the larger rubber but my Jeep keeps alleviating those concerns altogether. Since these 35's are taking me everywhere I care to wander in my home state of Colorado, I'm now 100% certain that re-gearing is not required. Both all my trail and highway miles are proving it.

I'm currently averaging between 20 to 22 mpg and getting just shy of 400 miles per tank. The 3.6L gives me plenty of performance and take-off power when I want it. Frankly however, I don't drive my rig as if it were a Ferrari. I drive it exactly what I bought it for - to explore the Colorado high-altitude mountain wilderness that I 'now' can call my back yard.

Unfortunately, I didn't have the budget for a Rubicon. Bought my Sport S for just under $29K. But this the best daily driver I've ever owned. Nothing else comes close.

Jay

Jeep Wrangler JL Reliability of 2.0T versus 3.6 etorque? IMG_20200901_113102
Jeep Wrangler JL Reliability of 2.0T versus 3.6 etorque? IMG_20200901_144649
 

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And now Jeeps new pricing for Rubicon they will pay you $500 to get the 2.0 turbo w/ ESS OR charge you an extra $1250 more if you want the 3.6 Etorque.

Are they pushing the 2.0 because of EPA ratings or other reasons?

I am leaning towards 3.6 as I plan on keeping for a very long time and do majority of my own maintenance and repairs. Talked to a couple of Dealership mechanics and they recommended if planning on keeping longer than warranty they would recommend the 3.6 V6.
 

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And now Jeeps new pricing for Rubicon they will pay you $500 to get the 2.0 turbo w/ ESS OR charge you an extra $1250 more if you want the 3.6 Etorque.

Are they pushing the 2.0 because of EPA ratings or other reasons?

I am leaning towards 3.6 as I plan on keeping for a very long time and do majority of my own maintenance and repairs. Talked to a couple of Dealership mechanics and they recommended if planning on keeping longer than warranty they would recommend the 3.6 V6.
Those same mechanics that are still putting 6 quarts of oil in a 5 quart engine, and we're on the 5th model year? It's because they are generally to lazy to expand their knowledge about what they are paid to work on. You might as well have asked the janitor for his opinion.
 

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Those same mechanics that are still putting 6 quarts of oil in a 5 quart engine, and we're on the 5th model year? It's because they are generally to lazy to expand their knowledge about what they are paid to work on. You might as well have asked the janitor for his opinion.
Or maybe because as he mentioned they have had a number of the 2.0 turbos in needing major engine work and in general more mechanical issues.
But there is the chance that you know far more than they do?

I was simply passing on what I was told by someone that happens to work on these vehicles everyday for a living.
 

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I read these forums A LOT and there are almost never any reliability concerns on eitherā€¦ compared to numerous diesel threads. Any engine/machine is capable of breakdown but these two donā€™t seem prone to it.
I have a plain 3.6 JTR and I thought it would last longer. My wifeā€™s JLUR with a 2.0 has waaay more useable power. And Iā€™m not sure it would break down any sooner with good maintenance.
As others have said hers does sound like a an old biplane or something but she did skid hers down a 20ft embankment so that mightā€™ve opened up the exhaust a littlešŸ¤·ā€ā™‚ļø.
Hell my radio freezes and restarts about 25% of the time. The Pentastar is WAY down on my worry list.
What Iā€™m saying is I think the 2.0 is a good motor, too. Iā€™m guessing itā€™ll last longer than any of the radio, battery, axle issues, etc will.
 

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Or maybe because as he mentioned they have had a number of the 2.0 turbos in needing major engine work and in general more mechanical issues.
But there is the chance that you know far more than they do?

I was simply passing on what I was told by someone that happens to work on these vehicles everyday for a living.
Vehicle forums are a magnet to 2 categories of members. Enthusiasts and those with a problem. You'll be much better served by reading here, which will provide a more realistic pie slice of what's actually happening with both engines. These run of the mill versus threads are always filled with guesses masked as fact, but the Issues and Repairs subforum will reflect the true pattern.

Spoiler alert: Both engines are proving to be great options, but as with anything mechanical with a lot of computerized doodads intertwined, shit happens to everything. And as a heads up, don't forget what I said about the population here being made up of enthusiasts and those with problems. That equals a dense concentration of gathered problems that on the surface will look like the sky is falling down on Jeep, when in reality this forum only represents a very small percentage of the actual Jeep population. It's also why most Jeeps on this forum are quite built up, yet most Jeeps seen in the real world are fully stock or much closer to it.

The best advice that could ever be given to anyone asking about these 2 engines, is to take a few test drives to experience each engine a couple times and go with the one that grabs your attention.

Cheers, buddy!
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