Reid Racing Steering knuckles

[intentsrig]

Thought I’d share this. It appears my upper ball joint holes were wallowing out on my stock knuckles.

Glad I went Reid. The aluminum knuckles are a shockingly soft metal.

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[4xFUN]

Aluminum knuckles are a great idea for high performance street cars...Not so much for a 'Go Anywhere, Do Anything' solid axle 4x4...

 

[mgroeger]

Thought I’d share this. It appears my upper ball joint holes were wallowing out on my stock knuckles.

Glad I went Reid. The aluminum knuckles are a shockingly soft metal.

How many miles and how much abuse?

 

[intentsrig]

How many miles and how much abuse?

33k miles and lots of wheeling every summer. Multiple times a month. At least 3 rubicon trips a summer too.

 

[mgroeger]

33k miles and lots of wheeling every summer. Multiple times a month. At least 3 rubicon trips a summer too.

Dang, we do lots of wheeling too at Sand Hollow and Moab and Rubicon is in the plans for next year. I fear what mine already look like... lol.

 

[intentsrig]

Dang, we do lots of wheeling too at Sand Hollow and Moab and Rubicon is in the plans for next year. I fear what mine already look like... lol.

One side is worse than the other. I was trying to figure out why. Part of it Could be the hammering to get the knuckle off the lower ball joint. The upper drops out fine after a few swings because of the steel sleeve but the lower being alloy and a steel bj spindle corroded them together really bad.

So really I can’t say for sure how it wallowed but at least it could be something to keep an eye on.

 

[SPR Pumpkin Rubi]

Yall have me looking at Reid knuckles, Dynatrac ball joints, and if I am doing all of that I want flipped steering.

I killed the factory stabilizer to where it was bent and leaking fluid. Took it off after coming out of Holey Cross, and thought I could drive on the road without a steering stabilizer. Was I wrong. Any time I hit a bump, dip, or etc it sent it into the biggest death wobble / shimmy I have ever had. Hitting the brakes only made it worse. Who knew a steering stabilizer made that much of a difference on these things. You cannot drive without one. In factory location they are the greatest rock magnet. For the next few days in CO, I remove it prior to running a trail. I am using someone else's and do not have another to kill.

 

[Rodeoflyer]

You don’t need to flip your steering unless you have a 4” lift or something. Just get a relocator and tie rod bracket/clamp to raise it up over the tie rod. I carry a spare stock stab under the back seat just in case I destroy the Fox ats. Who knows when I finally will…

 

[word302]

Yall have me looking at Reid knuckles, Dynatrac ball joints, and if I am doing all of that I want flipped steering.

I killed the factory stabilizer to where it was bent and leaking fluid. Took it off after coming out of Holey Cross, and thought I could drive on the road without a steering stabilizer. Was I wrong. Any time I hit a bump, dip, or etc it sent it into the biggest death wobble / shimmy I have ever had. Hitting the brakes only made it worse. Who knew a steering stabilizer made that much of a difference on these things. You cannot drive without one. In factory location they are the greatest rock magnet. For the next few days in CO, I remove it prior to running a trail. I am using someone else's and do not have another to kill.

If you’re getting death wobble with the stabilizer removed then there’s a problem with your steering/front suspension setup. It should drive fine without the stabilizer.

 

[SPR Pumpkin Rubi]

If you’re getting death wobble with the stabilizer removed then there’s a problem with your steering/front suspension setup. It should drive fine without the stabilizer.

You would think but that is not the case. Over smooth road it is fine, but when the driver tire hits something it sends it into a shimmy. I fully agree it should not matter. I have factory steering linkage but otherwise the front has currie parts. There is a thread on here from around two years ago about the factory steering stabilizer. A lot of people complained and jeep replaced them. The passenger side has the drag link and tie rod connecting to it, giving the knuckle descent stability from road feedback. The driver knuckle only has the tie rod that connects to it. With the stabilizer, it has just enough resistance to keep the driver knuckle from radially moving back and forth since the stabilizer is giving resistance. I would say on factory wheels and 33's you could probably run without it, but with 37" tires and beadlocks, that more force that it can handle when hitting a bump at 50mph without a stabilizer.

 

[word302]

You would think but that is not the case. Over smooth road it is fine, but when the driver tire hits something it sends it into a shimmy. I fully agree it should not matter. I have factory steering linkage but otherwise the front has currie parts. There is a thread on here from around two years ago about the factory steering stabilizer. A lot of people complained and jeep replaced them. The passenger side has the drag link and tie rod connecting to it, giving the knuckle descent stability from road feedback. The driver knuckle only has the tie rod that connects to it. With the stabilizer, it has just enough resistance to keep the driver knuckle from radially moving back and forth since the stabilizer is giving resistance. I would say on factory wheels and 33's you could probably run without it, but with 37" tires and beadlocks, that more force that it can handle when hitting a bump at 50mph without a stabilizer.

Like I said, something is loose and allowing the wobble. The stabilizer isn’t fixing it, only masking it. You need to figure out what’s causing the wobble. I run 37s and heavy beadlocks and can run without the stabilizer just fine. I always test drive/trouble-shoot without a stabilizer because it just masks bigger issues. Track bar frame-side mount, ball joints, and knuckles are the usual suspects.

 

[RubiRob]

Is the Reid technically better over the Mopar Steel then? I really don't want the orange Reid with the steer stop added work but they're cheaper and potentially better?

 

[Roky]

Is the Reid technically better over the Mopar Steel then? I really don't want the orange Reid with the steer stop added work but they're cheaper and potentially better?

I can’t speak to the Mopar’s, but the Reids are a thing of beauty. The machining, fit and finish on these things is amazing. I don’t mind the orange, I had two big orange balls under there already, also the fox shit is orange.......

 

[RubiRob]

I can’t speak to the Mopar’s, but the Reids are a thing of beauty. The machining, fit and finish on these things is amazing. I don’t mind the orange, I had two big orange balls under there already, also the fox shit is orange.......

Ya I hear you looks great. I have kings so not the best combo but nothing someblack paint can’t fix. Did you grind the stops or drill and tap for oem bolt?

 

[Roky]

Ya I hear you looks great. I have kings so not the best combo but nothing someblack paint can’t fix. Did you grind the stops or drill and tap for oem bolt?

Oh yeah, I forgot you had kings....... No, honestly, I can’t tell the difference in the fixed stop and the one on my old knuckles.

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