Reid Racing Steering knuckles

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Moto_21

Moto_21

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Front and rear. Take that!! LOL!

I currently have the Rock Krawler no limits front links, but I went with the shorter ones and they aren't long enough when fully extended. And my rear sway bar is hitting the frame on both sides limiting full flex.

A recent video, along with other reviews, seem to confirm that having both front and back results in a well balanced body during full articulation and it's also not as floppy as I had assumed for daily driving.

Just curious, but is there any reason why you're only looking at the front?
Right on, should be a good improvement, you will see more body roll though. But not bad.

well i have the rear, and with how tall i am and the soft initial coils fast offroad with the front unhooked and the rear antirock makes for an interesting ride when i hit turns haha. I gotta get it soon
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Right on, should be a good improvement, you will see more body roll though. But not bad.

well i have the rear, and with how tall i am and the soft initial coils fast offroad with the front unhooked and the rear antirock makes for an interesting ride when i hit turns haha. I gotta get it soon
Oh, I didn't know you were already rocking the rear. The front should bring it all together nicely for you. I was also concerned about the included links being long enough, but if they're working for your taller lift than I needn't be concerned.
 
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Oh, I didn't know you were already rocking the rear. The front should bring it all together nicely for you. I was also concerned about the included links being long enough, but if they're working for your taller lift than I needn't be concerned.
Nope youll be just fine, they were plenty long for me on the rear at least
 

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The 'weigh-in' Reid Racing vs Jeep Mojave iron knuckles...I received my Reid Racing knuckles some time ago and promptly had them powder coated black. (No offense to anyone but with a Bikini JLR, I want to keep the underside black) As my JLR has lots of down time as I wait for a new Dana 4.88 UD44 ( early July shipping date, sold my stock Rubi axle and my Mopar UD44 was defective) I decide to test fit the SteerSmarts taper bushings and the OEM camber sleeves for the upper ball joints...To my disbelief the camber sleeves were quite loose, one so much that even when I took a stock ball joint and torqued it 25 ftlbs over spec, the camber sleeve and ball joint were very loose. Northridge was great and quickly got me a replacement pair which are perfect, however since I really did not want to go through the process of powder coating again...I decided to to look closely at the Jeep Mojave iron knuckles (which come black) and have decided to go with the Jeep iron knuckles and will be selling a brand new (one not even opened) pair of Reid Racing knuckles.

CORRECTED:
Back to the 'weigh-in'...The Reid weighed in at 22.9 pounds and Jeep Mojave at 20.2. Reid make great products (anyone can slip up once in a while) but the Jeep Mojave OEM are also very well made, already black and I do not have to drill and tap for adjustable steering stops.

IMG_2603.jpeg


Update, Sorry, THIS was the defective Reid knuckle I had powder coated black...
IMG_2602.jpeg


Update: Sorry, THIS is the Jeep Mojave iron knuckle and weighs 20.2 pounds.
IMG_2604.jpeg
 
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Rodeoflyer

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What did those mopar knuckles run you?
 

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The 'weigh-in' Reid Racing vs Jeep Mojave iron knuckles...I received my Reid Racing knuckles some time ago and promptly had them powder coated black. (No offense to anyone but with a Bikini JLR, I want to keep the underside black) As my JLR has lots of down time as I wait for a new Dana 4.88 UD44 ( early July shipping date, sold my stock Rubi axle and my Mopar UD44 was defective) I decide to test fit the SteerSmarts taper bushings and the OEM camber sleeves for the upper ball joints...To my disbelief the camber sleeves were quite loose, one so much that even when I took a stock ball joint and torqued it 25 ftlbs over spec, the camber sleeve and ball joint were very loose. Northridge was great and quickly got me a replacement pair which are perfect, however since I really did not want to go through the process of powder coating again...I decided to to look closely at the Jeep Mojave iron knuckles (which come black) and have decided to go with the Jeep iron knuckles and will be selling a brand new (one not even opened) pair of Reid Racing knuckles.

CORRECTED:
Back to the 'weigh-in'...The Reid weighed in at 22.9 pounds and Jeep Mojave at 20.2. Reid make great products (anyone can slip up once in a while) but the Jeep Mojave OEM are also very well made, already black and I do not have to drill and tap for adjustable steering stops.

IMG_2603.jpeg


Update, Sorry, THIS was the defective Reid knuckle I had powder coated black...
IMG_2602.jpeg


Update: Sorry, THIS is the Jeep Mojave iron knuckle and weighs 20.2 pounds.
IMG_2604.jpeg
do you have the Mopar part number for the Mojave knuckles? I am planning to swap to iron ones on my new eco-diesel when it comes in. I may have the dealer do it before I pick it up. however i am also stuck in D, so I may cancel and order a 2022 if it does not move before the order banks open up. if 35s are really offered factory, that alone may make me swap. it may even come with the cast knuckles then.
 

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do you have the Mopar part number for the Mojave knuckles? I am planning to swap to iron ones on my new eco-diesel when it comes in. I may have the dealer do it before I pick it up. however i am also stuck in D, so I may cancel and order a 2022 if it does not move before the order banks open up. if 35s are really offered factory, that alone may make me swap. it may even come with the cast knuckles then.


Mopar part numbers: 68477358 & 68477359. I have a 20' Rubi 2-door and since no V8 (rumors of an optional V8 on 2-doors were false) and since my JLR now has lots of down time as I await the July ship date for the Dana 4.88 UD44...I am going ahead with everything I wanted as an upgrade, including Edelbrock's new Supercharger! Edelbrock even includes a 3 year, 36,000 mile powertrain warranty with their tune! As the old saying goes: in for a penny, in for a pound...A 3.6 Supercharged Rubi 2-door w/4.88's, even running 37" KO2's, should be a hoot to drive!
 

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Mopar part numbers: 68477358 & 68477359. I have a 20' Rubi 2-door and since no V8 (rumors of an optional V8 on 2-doors were false) and since my JLR now has lots of down time as I await the July ship date for the Dana 4.88 UD44...I am going ahead with everything I wanted as an upgrade, including Edelbrock's new Supercharger! Edelbrock even includes a 3 year, 36,000 mile powertrain warranty with their tune! As the old saying goes: in for a penny, in for a pound...A 3.6 Supercharged Rubi 2-door w/4.88's, even running 37" KO2's, should be a hoot to drive!
What was the number stamped on the ones you had that were defective?
 

Cypher

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Mopar part numbers: 68477358 & 68477359. I have a 20' Rubi 2-door and since no V8 (rumors of an optional V8 on 2-doors were false) and since my JLR now has lots of down time as I await the July ship date for the Dana 4.88 UD44...I am going ahead with everything I wanted as an upgrade, including Edelbrock's new Supercharger! Edelbrock even includes a 3 year, 36,000 mile powertrain warranty with their tune! As the old saying goes: in for a penny, in for a pound...A 3.6 Supercharged Rubi 2-door w/4.88's, even running 37" KO2's, should be a hoot to drive!
Since the Diesel is so much heavier up front I plan to do the knuckles, ball joints and tie rods right away since I am also lifting and putting on larger tires. I dont mind the orange, so I will probably buy which ever I can get soonest and for the best price. I am also in AZ, so let me know what you think of yours on the trails after the changes.
 
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