Rear window defroster unsoldered?

[HempelNet]

My last 2018 JL had two glass replacements, electric epoxy failure (before I even got it home from the dealer). After I called them back once I got home they said they would order yet another glass but I told them to hold off.

I ended up fixing this myself by removing the button from the connector and while holding it with vise grips I put a good amount of solder on the back side of it.

After that I used the vise grips to hold the button in place on the glass and pressed the soldering iron tip into the center of the button. Once the button got hot enough the solder melted allowing the button to sit flat on the glass.

After I did this fix it was fine for another 3 years until I traded it in (still working).

Forgot to mention I did this while the outside temp was around 50 with the glass on. I hope this helps others out.

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[JeepCares]

And its happened for the 3rd time... anyone else still having this issue?

Hey, mmai. If you haven't already, we would recommend a dealer visit for your concerns. If you need support while there, send us a private message.

Kate
Jeep Cares

 

[1quick1]

Mine has been good *knock on wood* since it was replaced and I put a few 2-3" of electrical tape over the "button to help reinforce it. It's so out of the way I never notice it.

 

[mmai]

Hey, mmai. If you haven't already, we would recommend a dealer visit for your concerns. If you need support while there, send us a private message.

Kate
Jeep Cares

Hi Kate,

I was able to schedule an appt with the local dealership. Will update once I find out how they will proceed.

 

[Wkaz]

My last 2018 JL had two glass replacements, electric epoxy failure (before I even got it home from the dealer). After I called them back once I got home they said they would order yet another glass but I told them to hold off.

I ended up fixing this myself by removing the button from the connector and while holding it with vise grips I put a good amount of solder on the back side of it.

After that I used the vise grips to hold the button in place on the glass and pressed the soldering iron tip into the center of the button. Once the button got hot enough the solder melted allowing the button to sit flat on the glass.

After I did this fix it was fine for another 3 years until I traded it in (still working).

Forgot to mention I did this while the outside temp was around 50 with the glass on. I hope this helps others out.

I have to try that but we're in the middle of a blizzard right now and I'm afraid the glass will explode in the unheated garage.

 

[ps2baseball]

True, but under the terms of most warranties, if an issue is continuing it is considered to be the original failure.

So, for example, if the rear window defroster cable falls off under warranty, if it recurs out of warranty it should still be considered the original failure and should be covered.

Same issue I am dealing with now. 2019 failed and replaced. 2020 it failed again. this time they said they had a special "kit" to replace it. I noticed last week it was off for the 3rd time.

Now they are claiming it is no longer under warranty and want to charge! It hasn't been working for more than 12 months since I bought the Jeep in 2018 and they have records of it! Same dealer has done all the work!

 

[Rhinebeck01]

Same issue I am dealing with now. 2019 failed and replaced. 2020 it failed again. this time they said they had a special "kit" to replace it. I noticed last week it was off for the 3rd time.

Now they are claiming it is no longer under warranty and want to charge! It hasn't been working for more than 12 months since I bought the Jeep in 2018 and they have records of it! Same dealer has done all the work!

@ps2baseball

My was repaired by the dealer 3 times. Tech is one of the best I have ever dealt with.

One time the Tech even soldered it versus using the recommended kit.

Each time the fox last a few months then the connection came loose. I know a new rear window had they done that, would still have/see this connect button coming loose issue.

So, since I do not use the rear window defroster anyway, I pulled Fuse 81 (rear defroster fuse) in the PDC to assure no power to the cable going to that connector and that was that.

 

[Kube86]

Well, I'm now on my 4th repair now, I had three windows replaced, and now it is off again. This one is only 4 months old! I am not really wanting to go again, since last time they were trying to have me pay $1100 for it, since my Jeep is out of warranty. I had to argue with them that it was originally repaired the first time under warranty. I'm just really sick of this poor design. What's the lemon law on this? LOL @JeepCares

 

[1quick1]

Guys put a few inches of electrical tape over the connector once the dealer replaces it provided you don't want to keep going back? It's obvious these wiggle out of the connection.

 

[JL ME]

I love my soft top!

 

[martoaj]

My connector on the passenger's side disconnected only ~6 months and 3000 miles from new.

Just got back from the dealership, they determined they would rather replace the entire back glass. What an insane pain; I'm shocked Jeep hasn't found a better way to do this to save them from paying out $600+ glass replacements under warranty. Oh well. Gonna try and get some tape or a zip tie (or both) on the cable of the new one so it is less likely to wiggle out.

 

[58Willys]

Loctite Abelstik 3888; an electrically conductive epoxy. Mix it up and glue it on. Did this on mine, been good for a couple months now.

 

[1quick1]

My connector on the passenger's side disconnected only ~6 months and 3000 miles from new.

Just got back from the dealership, they determined they would rather replace the entire back glass. What an insane pain; I'm shocked Jeep hasn't found a better way to do this to save them from paying out $600+ glass replacements under warranty. Oh well. Gonna try and get some tape or a zip tie (or both) on the cable of the new one so it is less likely to wiggle out.

After they replaced my glass I immediately put black electrical tape over mine to hold it in place and knock on wood it's been good since.

 

[Pat’s Sahara Unlimited]

Hi everyone! Got the same issue with my JLU. 3 repairs attempts at the dealer, they finally replaced the back glass under warranty. However, it failed again and I'm now out of the 36 mth warranty.

From reading most of the posts, it seems that the glue repair kit is a hit or miss thing, and my guess is that the kits do not offer a strong shear resistance coming from the tnesion put at the contact point when we open/close our hatch. This brought me this idea...

Has anyone tried to use a wider area copper piece to increase the glued surface? I found copper heat sinks of different thicknesses that are 10x10mm or even 15x15mm in surface. The idea will be to solder the "button" style to the copper, then glue the copper to the grid. I would probably drilla channel at the center of the "button" in order to have a good weld. I'm figuring that increasing the glued surface will in fact help the darn thing to resist the tension.

I ordered the heat sink kit (about CDN $18 on Amazon). Trying to figure out the best dielectric glue/epoxy, knowing that I need to repair this at fairly low temp unless I find a buddy's garage that can fit my Jeep...

 

[WagzDad]

Just a reminder. The problem is caused by the low contact area inside the connector. The poor connection gets hot enough to melt the solder.
The solution, after reattaching the button using arctic silver, is to use conductive copper antiseize in the boot and between several layers of uncoated aluminum foil. This helps increase the contact area and tighten the junction.
The best solution would be changing the tab style to a 2 contact bridge and then using a normal connector designed for more amperage.

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