Rear Track Bar Problem---Need advice

dsievert66

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Installed a 2" Dynatrac lift on my 2019 JLU Rubicon. Love the lift, 2" as stated. However, both the front and rear axles shifted to the driver's side. The front is 1" out and the rear is 3/4 out.

I purchased 2 adjustable track bars that just came in from Rancho but looks like that will only work for the front. If I am thinking about this right I'd need to make the rear trackbar shorter by 3/8 inch than the stock bar.

Can anyone recommend a rear adjustable trackbar that adjusts smaller than stock?

Any insight why the rear shifted to Driver vs passenger--It measured 2" higher than stock after the lift but no matter how I measure left to right it's still off. I'm wondering if I missed something during the install that would cause this. Everything looks seated correctly--any insights from those who are pro's at this?





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Badweissenbier

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You need both a longer trac bar and drag link for the front and a longer trac bar for the rear.
the trac bars center your axle. By lifting the Jeep the distance from the Jeep frame to axle got farther away so the shorter stock bars pull the axles to the drivers side.
Or You could also use a drop bracket to lower the frame mounting points 2” which would allow the stock bars to work right.
just remember the drag link and trac bar have to be parallel or you’ll get some bad bump steer.

and I believe the rear should have shifted the axle to the passenger. Sounds like something is out of whack.
 

Roky

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Installed a 2" Dynatrac lift on my 2019 JLU Rubicon. Love the lift, 2" as stated. However, both the front and rear axles shifted to the driver's side. The front is 1" out and the rear is 3/4 out.

I purchased 2 adjustable track bars that just came in from Rancho but looks like that will only work for the front. If I am thinking about this right I'd need to make the rear trackbar shorter by 3/8 inch than the stock bar.

Can anyone recommend a rear adjustable trackbar that adjusts smaller than stock?

Any insight why the rear shifted to Driver vs passenger--It measured 2" higher than stock after the lift but no matter how I measure left to right it's still off. I'm wondering if I missed something during the install that would cause this. Everything looks seated correctly--any insights from those who are pro's at this?
Double check everything you did, at 2” of lift , the axles will only shift 1/4” (front to driver/ rear to passenger) . At 2” lift, a lot of guys don’t replace track bars, also why dynatrac lift doesn’t include them. .
 
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dsievert66

dsievert66

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Double check everything you did, at 2” of lift , the axles will only shift 1/4” (front to driver/ rear to passenger) . At 2” lift, a lot of guys don’t replace track bars, also why dynatrac lift doesn’t include them. .
Let me correct something. Its a 2" lift but I forgot I added 1/2 inch spacer on the front to compensate for the steel bumper and winch. I also added adjustable front lower control arms. That could explain why that's out more.

The back is just the coil springs, shocks, and longer sway bar links that came with the kit that were changed. Everything is seated and indexed so I can't think of anything else that could be incorrect that would cause the shift to Driver. The only thing I could think of is to loosen the rear trackbar and lower control arms and re-tighten everything. Not sure if there could be some binding going on.
 

limeade

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Let me correct something. Its a 2" lift but I forgot I added 1/2 inch spacer on the front to compensate for the steel bumper and winch. I also added adjustable front lower control arms. That could explain why that's out more.

The back is just the coil springs, shocks, and longer sway bar links that came with the kit that were changed. Everything is seated and indexed so I can't think of anything else that could be incorrect that would cause the shift to Driver. thx
It's impossible for the rear to shift to the driver side after installing a lift and keeping the stock track bar. I'd measure again to ensure what you're telling us is correct.

With that said, we are all assuming the rear axle was centered with the stock suspension. Did you by chance measure the rear axle prior to lifting it to see if it was centered or off? Perhaps it was shifted 1" to the driver side before the lift and is now only ¾"?? Don't know why it would be off when stock, but crazier things have happened.
 
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dsievert66

dsievert66

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It's impossible for the rear to shift to the driver side after installing a lift and keeping the stock track bar. I'd measure again to ensure what you're telling us is correct.

With that said, we are all assuming the rear axle was centered with the stock suspension. Did you by chance measure the rear axle prior to lifting it to see if it was centered or off? Perhaps it was shifted 1" to the driver side before the lift and is now only ¾"?? Don't know why it would be off when stock, but crazier things have happened.

Impossible----that's what I thought. Unfortunately, I did not measure prior to doing the lift. It looked even is all I can say.

I've measured two ways and they came out the same: 1) Using an aluminum level placed against the tires through the center and measuring distance to the fender 2) Using level against bottom of tire, leveled vertically and measuring to the same point on the fender.

Could the rear lower control arms bind up and limit coil extension if I did not loosen and re-tighten them after installation of the lift? I removed the track bar at the axle during install and re-tightened after. Not sure what it could be.
 

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Let me correct something. Its a 2" lift but I forgot I added 1/2 inch spacer on the front to compensate for the steel bumper and winch. I also added adjustable front lower control arms. That could explain why that's out more.

The back is just the coil springs, shocks, and longer sway bar links that came with the kit that were changed. Everything is seated and indexed so I can't think of anything else that could be incorrect that would cause the shift to Driver. The only thing I could think of is to loosen the rear trackbar and lower control arms and re-tighten everything. Not sure if there could be some binding going on.
Could be some binding if you tightened everything up while Jeep was off the ground, maybe loosen track bars control arms and re torque with Jeep on the ground.
 
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limeade

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Impossible----that's what I thought. Unfortunately, I did not measure prior to doing the lift. It looked even is all I can say.

I've measured two ways and they came out the same: 1) Using an aluminum level placed against the tires through the center and measuring distance to the fender 2) Using level against bottom of tire, leveled vertically and measuring to the same point on the fender.

Could the rear lower control arms bind up and limit coil extension if I did not loosen and re-tighten them after installation of the lift? I removed the track bar at the axle during install and re-tightened after. Not sure what it could be.
Could be some binding if you tightened everything up while Jeep was off the ground, maybe loosen tack bars control arms and re torque with Jeep on the ground.
Yeah, was going to suggest same as @Roky . When you installed your springs (and since you didn't replace any of the rear arms), you should've loosened all of control arm bolts. By doing this, you allow the control arms to easily pivot without fighting the Clevite bushings. The stock bushings do not like to articulate much. If subjected to over-articulation, the rubber bushing can tear away from the bonded inner metal sleeve.

With Jeep on ground, loosen all of the control arm and track bar bolts, then tighten everything up. Take for a short drive and re-measure. The drive will help ensure the suspension parts are settled, giving you a more true platform to measure off of.
 
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dsievert66

dsievert66

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Yeah, was going to suggest same as @Roky . When you installed your springs (and since you didn't replace any of the rear arms), you should've loosened all of control arm bolts. By doing this, you allow the control arms to easily pivot without fighting the Clevite bushings. The stock bushings do not like to articulate much. If subjected to over-articulation, the rubber bushing can tear away from the bonded inner metal sleeve.

With Jeep on ground, loosen all of the control arm and track bar bolts, then tighten everything up. Take for a short drive and re-measure. The drive will help ensure the suspension parts are settled, giving you a more true platform to measure off of.
Thank you! I will try that.
 

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Double check everything you did, at 2” of lift , the axles will only shift 1/4” (front to driver/ rear to passenger) . At 2” lift, a lot of guys don’t replace track bars, also why dynatrac lift doesn’t include them. .
I have the dynatrac lift, it was a noticeable shift. Adjustable front and rear metalcloak track bars fixed the stance and also look dead sexy.
 

Roky

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I have the dynatrac lift, it was a noticeable shift. Adjustable front and rear metalcloak track bars fixed the stance and also look dead sexy.
I find the shift is a little more on Rubi , I wonder if axle is slightly shifted from factory since it’s slightly higher, and uses the same track bar as the other trims ? 🤷‍♂️... Maybe someone with stock Rubi could measure from edge of coil spring housing to outside of tire tread on both sides , and chime in ?
 

mwilk012

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I find the shift is a little more on Rubi , I wonder if axle is slightly shifted from factory since it’s slightly higher, and uses the same track bar as the other trims ? 🤷‍♂️... Maybe someone with stock Rubi could measure from edge of coil spring housing to outside of tire tread on both sides , and chime in ?
Rubi axles are wider, it’s more noticeable once they clear the fender flares.
 
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dsievert66

dsievert66

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Rubi axles are wider, it’s more noticeable once they clear the fender flares.
Anyone know the eye:eye length of the stock rear trackbar on a Rubicon JL? I have an adjustable one but not sure if it will allow me to adjust towards passenger and don’t want to open the package if I have to send it back.
 

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Anyone know the eye:eye length of the stock rear trackbar on a Rubicon JL? I have an adjustable one but not sure if it will allow me to adjust towards passenger and don’t want to open the package if I have to send it back.

This is from the Clayton web site:

1612727028886.png
 

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