Rear knocking, got diff serviced, still nothing.

[Deleted member 68858]

Yes. I installed an ARB air locker in the rear. Price... well. It gets kind of expensive. The locker itself is 1k. The air compressor and mounting bracket maybe another 700 or so. Master rebuild kit was 200.00 or so?

I installed it all myself, so that saves some money.

Anyone who has turned wrenches over the years can do it once you understand the what/why/how. I wouldn't say it's easy. It just takes time. And a few tools the average guy probably doesnt have.

Oh yeah, and gears. Gear set (one pinion, one ring gear) is about 300.00 for Dana stuff.

Thanks for the info I appreciate it. I’ll most likely be paying for installation so I’m definitely expecting it to be pricey. Once or IF diagnosed by the dealer (fingers crossed), and from what I’ve read on here, they will either replace the carrier assembly or the whole axle under warranty along with whatever else that may have been affected, I will have to do that first before I go and get the ARB installed.

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[mwilk012]

Thanks for the info I appreciate it. I’ll most likely be paying for installation so I’m definitely expecting it to be pricey. Once or IF diagnosed by the dealer (fingers crossed), and from what I’ve read on here, they will either replace the carrier assembly or the whole axle under warranty along with whatever else that may have been affected, I will have to do that first before I go and get the ARB installed.

If the clutches are severely degraded, the fluid will be a disaster filled with gritty material that shreds bearings. Careful going that route.

 

[Jp040506]

Since yours is a lease, shouldn't it been covered, under warranty work??
BTW, I feel your pain, about constant issues.

Unfortunately, I tried going that route but I’m over the 60,000 mark and because I modified it they are putting up a fight so I gave up.

 

[Deleted member 68858]

Dang it’s always something. id probably have to change the oil like 500 miles after they replace it to get the leftover junk out right?

 

[Deleted member 68858]

Unfortunately, I tried going that route but I’m over the 60,000 mark and because I modified it they are putting up a fight so I gave up.

I’m right at 55,000 now and really hope they can make something happen before the warranty’s out.

 

[oldcjguy]

FYI there are no u-joints in the JL drive shafts. If you are going to do it out of pocket, I'd have a reputable shop pop the back cover off and due and inspection/service. Rotate the carrier and look at the gears. Grab a back wheel while someone holds the other and rotate it back and forth with the cover off and see if it makes noise. If it doesn't put the trans in neutral and try again, this time the drive shaft should spin. Any noise coming from the trans or transfer case?
Have them check for excessive play in the spider gears or carrier bearings. Look at the wear pattern on the ring gear.

Does it change if you put it in 4Hi and drive around? What about 4Lo?

 

[Spank]

If you're still thinking it might be the driveshaft, pull the rear off and go for a quick spin in 4-HI. Just take it around the block a couple times and if the noise is gone, there's your answer. While unbolting it is kinda tedious, it's not difficult and it won't hurt anything. Process of elimination is where I start with things like this.

My OEM rear DS was popping pretty good when I'd put it in gear, similar to what you're experiencing, but I was already aware my DS was toast from tearing the boot.

 

[Deleted member 68858]

If you're still thinking it might be the driveshaft, pull the rear off and go for a quick spin in 4-HI. Just take it around the block a couple times and if the noise is gone, there's your answer. While unbolting it is kinda tedious, it's not difficult and it won't hurt anything. Process of elimination is where I start with things like this.

My OEM rear DS was popping pretty good when I'd put it in gear, similar to what you're experiencing, but I was already aware my DS was toast from tearing the boot.

I took some clips of this rear diff noise while it was on the lift. What’s this sound?

 

[2nd 392]

I’m right at 55,000 now and really hope they can make something happen before the warranty’s out.

The second time I took my PU in for a problem they claimed they couldn’t recreate I told the service mgr to get in and took him for a ride, recreating the issue, then asked “OK— there it is, can you deny it now?” It got repaired.

 

[Spank]

I took some clips of this rear diff noise while it was on the lift. What’s this sound?

Mine was much louder and you could easily hear it over the engine. This is sounds more internal like it's inside the diff.

What was happening when you recorded this clip? T-case in neutral and the DS or rear tires being spun by hand?

If you had the diff fluid changed and you've got no leak from the pinion seal, that's good news, but still doesn't rule out an issue with one of the gears. It's also still possible one the u-joints is toast on the DS.

 

[Deleted member 68858]

Nah, mine was much louder and you could easily hear it over the engine.

Were you in neutral and spinning the rear DS while it was on the lift when recording this clip?

Yes it was in neutral and the mechanic was spinning the rear passenger Side wheel. While driving I can hear it around 10-15mph during deceleration

 

[Spank]

Yes it was in neutral and the mechanic was spinning the rear passenger Side wheel. While driving I can hear it around 10-15mph during deceleration

Just for process of elimination purposes, have you disconnected the DS at the rear diff and spun the tire again? I'd give that a try and if the noise is still there, you know it's the internals.

You don't even need to pull the entire DS. Just get it hoisted somehow, disconnect it from the diff, and pull it back a smidge from the flange.

EDIT: While it's still on the lift, of course.

 

[Deleted member 68858]

Just for process of elimination purposes, have you disconnected the DS at the rear diff and spun the tire again? I'd give that a try and if the noise is still there, you know it's the internals.

You don't even need to pull the entire DS. Just get it hoisted somehow, disconnect it from the diff, and pull it back a smidge from the flange.

EDIT: While it's still on the lift, of course.

Dropped it off at the dealer yesterday for the rear axle clunking and other stuff. They called me today saying that noise from the video i sent is normal and is from the ABS pump?? Yeah no. And also told me they couldn’t hear anything when they drove it, asked me to come and drive it. So i did, I took the service department manager with me and the clunking happened just outside the dealership when pullin out and decelerating under 20mph!!! He acknowledged it and I’m so very glad that he did. Now From my understanding, Dealer will be replacing rear carrier assembly under PT warranty. Hopefully this’ll do it. I’m happy that this is actually moving forward now…..probably cuz I started a case with FCA maybe?? Lol

 

[Deleted member 68858]

hey all!
Just wanted to update you guys on this.
I got my Jeep back a couple of days ago, dealer replaced the rear differential along with bearings and seals (I’ve uploaded an image of the service report & the part for reference)

The clunking is completely gone y’all!!

I’m so happy this is resolved. Also threw on some rubicon takeoff wheels&tires
I do plan on getting the rear diff drained and filled back up with royal purple 75W-90 this weekend.

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