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Rear Bumper Integrated LED Reverse Lights

maddscot

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Finished them last night, took awhile to route the power wire to the auxiliary switches harness under hood, as I’m anal, and was very careful how I routed it using flexi tubing. Looks very nice, too bad it’s not visible...lol.

So, connected solely to Aux4, and they are bright! The backup camera photo is just the lights, a little blotchy as it’s parked in the garage, but illuminated the front of the neighbors house cross the street!
They look really nice, looks OEM to me, very pleased.
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FC5CA107-6642-4688-AFA9-BA9586266764.jpeg
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Interested in your install in how did you run the wires, the connection to the lights and what wires you used. Thanks!
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RobAmy

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Interested in your install in how did you run the wires, the connection to the lights and what wires you used. Thanks!
Here is the way I ran mine to the AUX 4. I ran the power thru the frame and installed the ground in the rear on the frame. I did grind the paint off for the ground then repainted. The wire loom is the power wire going into the frame. Just wired both of the lights together. I used the blue with pink strip under the hood which is the Aux 4 wire.

Jeep Wrangler JL Rear Bumper Integrated LED Reverse Lights IMG_0982
 
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ORACLElights

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Just another update for all. We updated our site description with a note about the irregularity of steel bumpers for future customers and added this video that shows the modifications that may be necessary depending on individual bumpers.


We are also contacting the members that have posted about cracked lenses. If you have a crack and don't get a message from us in the next 10 minutes or so, we might have missed you in the shuffle so please DM us a photo of the crack so we can assist. If anyone has any other concerns, please feel free to DM us so we can look into it and assist.

Anyone else having condensation on the inside of the lense?
Can you DM us a picture of the condensation so we look into this for you?
 

RobAmy

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Just another update for all. We updated our site description with a note about the irregularity of steel bumpers for future customers and added this video that shows the modifications that may be necessary depending on individual bumpers.


We are also contacting the members that have posted about cracked lenses. If you have a crack and don't get a message from us in the next 10 minutes or so, we might have missed you in the shuffle so please DM us a photo of the crack so we can assist. If anyone has any other concerns, please feel free to DM us so we can look into it and assist.



Can you DM us a picture of the condensation so we look into this for you?
Thanks for doing that and reaching out to me :like: Kudos to you
 

Rubifan

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Interested in your install in how did you run the wires, the connection to the lights and what wires you used. Thanks!
I wired them the same as “RobAmy”, connected the grounds as one, then grounded to the frame at the rear. I connected the power wires as one, and used flexi tubing inside the passenger frame rail to an opening near the front wheel opening, then up to the auxiliary wiring harness, using the blue/pink wire for Aux4.
Very clean...

As far as the installation, I did NOT remove the bumper, it’s entirely possible, and quite easy using a long 3/8” extension...as noted in my previous post on page 28.
 

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rcs

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Help please! I have the steel bumper. I’ve read about really tight fits, especially on the driver side and I read about breaking the lights forcing them too much. I started with the driver side and I’m having trouble getting it to fit. I’m afraid with any more force, I’ll start breaking casings or something. Questions: Do I align the best I can and give a hard firm press? Will it snap into place all at once, or will it work its way seated more and more with each press? Any tips or tricks for getting this thing to fit with the steel bumper without breaking it?

BTW - I got the OEM red reflectors off with steel bumper and OEM tow package in 5 minutes without pulling the bumper. Read on a related thread to get a 1/4“ socket with two extenders (about 9-10 inches total). It worked great. I used a light shining from underneath and could visibly see the screw on both sides which made it easy to align. Twisted off by hand using only the extensions - didn’t even need the socket wrench. It helps to have a pole magnet to easily get the screw if it falls into the bumper. No need to waste time pulling the bumper!
I have the same fit problem. I tried filing down the left side of the opening, but it was too tight to take enough off, so I ordered a tungsten carbide bit (#9903) for my Dremel to make it easier to get the clearance I need. Don’t forget to paint the exposed metal with some Rust-o-lem to keep it from rusting.
 
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ORACLElights

ORACLElights

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Don’t forget to paint the exposed metal with some Rust-o-lem to keep it from rusting.
Our parts are made from aluminum, no worries about rusting ;)

Alternatively, if you use a punch to correct the stamping on the steel bumper then yes be sure to repaint any missing pain on there.
 

99wishes

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I just installed mine on a 2021 Rubicon with steel bumper. I did NOT remove the bumper, I used a long extension with a 1/4” socket running over the top of the bumper assembly with near straight access to both screws, and turned the screws out by hand.
I used a magnetic work light to illuminate the screws from below. I also used a flexible magnetic wand (as recommended in an earlier post) to remove each screw once loosened. It took about five minutes per side, quite easy, the reflectors removed easily, actually the passenger side fell out once the screw was removed, I had to pry the drivers side out with gentle, undamaging force...leading me to believe Oracle’s observation, that the drivers side opening is slightly different/tighter than the passenger side.
Installation was also quite easy, passenger side snapped in after pushing the wiring through the round access hole, drivers side is very tight...I smeared some bearing grease on the side of the light, and the bumper opening. I then pushed it into position as far as I could get it to go, then covered it with two folded shop rags, and gave it a couple direct smacks with a rubber mallet...popped right in with no cracks.
I was able to install the retaining screws in each light housing, in the same fashion as I removed the screws from the reflectors. I did however turn both screws in each light housing before installation, as they are pretty tight, then removed them. This allowed them to turn in easier after the lights were installed.

Tomorrow I’ll finish it by grounding at the rear, and running the power wire in a loom to the underhood auxiliary switches wiring harness using Auxiliary 4, as I’m using Auxiliary 3 for my KC A-pillar auxiliary lights.
They look extremely nice, I’m very pleased, and I'm really looking forward to seeing them powered on!
Braver than I am. Well done.
 

99wishes

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Our parts are made from aluminum, no worries about rusting ;)

Alternatively, if you use a punch to correct the stamping on the steel bumper then yes be sure to repaint any missing pain on there.
Or adjust the light so no one has to do any modifications. I would love to recommend your product without an asterisk. It is a very minor adjustment.

If I was making something to fit an opening, say a window, I would measure the opening not the window I took out. We all tested your product and provided similar feedback.
 

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It sounds like the lights (both drivers side and passenger side) fit perfectly in the steel bumper that has the plastic bumper cover over it. Would I be wrong?

I have a MOAB and am thinking about getting a set of these. From what I have read the are a perfect fit as is. Maybe it is just some of the steel bumpers that have issues? Just guessing at this point based on the posts.
 

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It sounds like the lights (both drivers side and passenger side) fit perfectly in the steel bumper that has the plastic bumper cover over it. Would I be wrong?

I have a MOAB and am thinking about getting a set of these. From what I have read the are a perfect fit as is. Maybe it is just some of the steel bumpers that have issues? Just guessing at this point based on the posts.
You are correct! They fit perfectly on my MOAB. Just plan on removing the bumper to do the install correctly. I tapped into the hitch wiring harness on the passenger side (white with orange striped wire) and ran the ground wire to a small existing nearby hole in the bumper frame and attached it with a ring terminal and a 1/4” machine screw and locking nut.
 

Rock Hopper

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You are correct! They fit perfectly on my MOAB. Just plan on removing the bumper to do the install correctly. I tapped into the hitch wiring harness on the passenger side (white with orange striped wire) and ran the ground wire to a small existing nearby hole in the bumper frame and attached it with a ring terminal and a 1/4” machine screw and locking nut.
@BLACKMOAB Thanks for the info. I was thinking I did not have to remove the back bumper. Maybe that is just on the steel bumpers? I think I have read that more than a few people were able to access the back of the reflectors with small extensions- am going to check for access in the morning. If it requires removing the bumper I'll probably pass for now. I like the idea of the lights, I am just buried in projects and don't really feel like pulling the bumper. I've got a few things going on around the bumper (Maximus tow loops and a Magnaflow dual exhaust) so it might be a little more complicated that just removing a few bolts...
 

BLACKMOAB

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@BLACKMOAB Thanks for the info. I was thinking I did not have to remove the back bumper. Maybe that is just on the steel bumpers? I think I have read that more than a few people were able to access the back of the reflectors with small extensions- am going to check for access in the morning. If it requires removing the bumper I'll probably pass for now. I like the idea of the lights, I am just buried in projects and don't really feel like pulling the bumper. I've got a few things going on around the bumper (Maximus tow loops and a Magnaflow dual exhaust) so it might be a little more complicated that just removing a few bolts...
i didn’t intend to remove my bumper. Removing the OEM reflector screws was easy using a 1/4” drive u-joint extension and a 9” straight extension. I then pushed both Oracle lights in place (easy and smooth fit) but for them be secure, they would need the Oracle supplied screws installed to make sure they stayed in place. I spent probably 30 or 45 minutes trying to get them started with the set up I used to remove the originals but the angle is such that it’s almost impossible to do. Thus, I ended up removing the bumper and that took no more than 30 minutes, so had I done that in the first place the install would have taken no longer. If you’d be satisfied with using some glue or double sided tape to secure them, then you definitely can install them without removing the bumper as they fit good but (in my opinion) not tight enough to not need the screws or an adhesive of some type.
BTW, they look and work great.
 

Rubifan

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@BLACKMOAB I've got a few things going on around the bumper (Maximus tow loops and a Magnaflow dual exhaust) so it might be a little more complicated that just removing a few bolts...
I have the steel bumper (that I did not remove) with a MagnaFlow dual outlet exhaust like yours...it did not interfere with the removal or installation.
Jeep Wrangler JL Rear Bumper Integrated LED Reverse Lights FD6F6194-296A-4E95-8445-652083F553CB
Jeep Wrangler JL Rear Bumper Integrated LED Reverse Lights 703391A1-1316-4227-B736-47F784D044FD
 

Lone Eagle

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Starting a new thread to avoid confusion from the original thread here https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/fiber-optic-hardtop-panels.54314/

Members here asked us to provide some concepts for an integrated LED reverse light to replace the rear bumper reflectors.
Jeep Wrangler JL Rear Bumper Integrated LED Reverse Lights 703391A1-1316-4227-B736-47F784D044FD

Following feedback from JL owners on the forum our concept is:
  • Direct replacement lamp using existing hardware.
  • Taps into existing reverse light power source without error code.
  • Clean design with OE fitment and appearance.
  • 4x 5W LEDs, 20W Power each, total 1,000Lm output (theoretical)
  • Clear PMMA Lens, Cast Aluminum Housing with Powdercoat Finish.
  • Optic-Focused wide beam pattern for extended field of view.
I am in on this one
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