I understand that part. Weird that warranty would be denied when dealers sell new rigs with oversized tiresNot sure that's true when you put on oversize tires. That increase in mass and leverage will wear components like BJs prematurely.
the diesels and mojaves get cast iron knuckles and i heard they may come to all jeeps next year
bummer must just be the gladiators. Even the sports have themI have a Diesel and it has aluminum knuckles.
ive seen two myself at the local dealer with them already (diesels) I’m still waiting for my order to arrive. That’s how they accomplished the goal of raising the gvrwSource?
I did a cursory search....couldn't find any info beyond Mojaves.
I don’t have anyone to swap wheels and tires with for an extended period of time. I have done what you described here with no change.if your spare is unused try swapping it out for one of the fronts. If it still happens swap it out for the other.
What kind of tires are on there now? What load range C,D,E?
Nah, not hopping on that bandwagon until there is actual proof. I'm sick of just joining in on the collective freak outs the internet likes to have about stuff that hasn't even come to fruition.I imagine the first year of a completely new platform being a shot show, don’t you think?
And I hope you are not one of those douche bags in a car that tries to force bicyclists off the road.Sorry to hear. Especially on a new car this kind of thing is super aggravating. If it makes you feel better, we just bought a new Highlander and it’s been in the shop three times with 5000 miles on it. Bad struts, broken windshield, engine leaks, misfires, you name it.
There’s a phenomenon called Hopf bifurcation behind the shimmy. Road bicyclists (the douche bags in the spandex suits on their racing bikes who hog the road) experience this shimmy a lot when they’re coasting downhill.
I would say to have your frame geometry checked. Then move to ball joints and trying your stock wheels.
I'd lean towards ball joints then too. It was fine for a period of time then started happening. Did it start after the lift? Not saying the lift caused it but it will cause parts to wear faster. Also load D are heavy stiff tires, that's going to effect bearings and ball joints too. I wonder if you change the caster if it will get any better. Sounds like you have adjustable control arms.I don’t have anyone to swap wheels and tires with for an extended period of time. I have done what you described here with no change.
tires are a D load range BFG KO2.
The 18 and 19 JLs have had plenty of issues and like you said, they aren’t even a completely new platform. Understandably, not all are having issues, I’m aware. But plenty of admitted steering issues, locker problems with the redesigned Dana axles, corrosion issues with the use of aluminum. Just to name the major ones.Nah, not hopping on that bandwagon until there is actual proof. I'm sick of just joining in on the collective freak outs the internet likes to have about stuff that hasn't even come to fruition.
Anecdotally, I have a launch JL and haven't had any issues. I know it wasn't a new platform, but still, I put my money where my mouth is when I say that I don't mind taking a chance on new stuff.
Have you replaced all of the factory control arm and track bar bolts with proper sized SAE shouldered bolts? The factory bolts are fully threaded metric and do not fit the SAE bushings very well. In addition, some of the control arm holes are elongated for use with caster adjusting cam washers. I replaced almost all of my factory bolts with shouldered SAE grade 8 bolts and got some rectangular washers (I think they were Teraflex for a JK) to put on the control arm bolts that had the elongated holes. There are some shallow stamped detents around the holes that the washers fit between. This keeps them from moving around. All the slop in the factory setup, along with improperly torqued bolts can result in a lot of movement, and the mounting holes getting elongated which makes things even worse.I don’t have anyone to swap wheels and tires with for an extended period of time. I have done what you described here with no change.
tires are a D load range BFG KO2.
I have not replaced control arm bolts. I have replaced track bar bolts. I have paint marked everything with thread checker. Not ruling out that the issue could relate to this. But based on what I’m seeing, movement in the control arm mounting location does not appear to exist.Have you replaced all of the factory control arm and track bar bolts with proper sized SAE shouldered bolts? The factory bolts are fully threaded metric and do not fit the SAE bushings very well. In addition, some of the control arm holes are elongated for use with caster adjusting cam washers. I replaced almost all of my factory bolts with shouldered SAE grade 8 bolts and got some rectangular washers (I think they were Teraflex for a JK) to put on the control arm bolts that had the elongated holes. There are some shallow stamped detents around the holes that the washers fit between. This keeps them from moving around. All the slop in the factory setup, along with improperly torqued bolts can result in a lot of movement, and the mounting holes getting elongated which makes things even worse.
Hey no worries.BTW, sorry brother....didn't really notice who I was responding to and that you already knew everything I was saying.
Oh well...maybe someone else reading along doesn't know that stuff and it'll be an education.
Apologies.![]()