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Reaching my breaking point... may consider trading my JLUR

LHuffman47

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My piece of shit JL does the same thing, can’t believe my 52k truck is shit compared to my base ass JK
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Creeker

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Sorry if this has already been mentioned.
Sounds as if you have the steer smart stuff.
Can you provide details as to what you exactly have.
Also, do you still have the factory arms for the suspension?

Does the Jeep have the Synergy Sector Shaft brace?
(mine came loose, had to re-torque to ~180 Ft/Lbs and lots of red loctite)
The bolt for the steering stabilizer came loose as well.
Most of this stuff was found when checking the steering while someone turned the wheel.

Other items is the ball joints and other factory components like wheel bearings, aluminum steering box, shocks, etc.
 
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Call911man

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Not meant to be triggering. But need to just reach out as a last hope, although I’m not expecting any miracles.

I think I’ve reached my breaking point. After 9 months of issues, I’m legit contemplating other vehicle options. Sadly, my JLUR was my dream vehicle and there are not a lot of replacements. But I don’t think I have the energy to keep fighting my issues.

After 6 months and about 12k miles, I started having death wobble issues. Since, I’ve replaced every steering and suspension component. Ive reaches out to many forum members for help. I’ve contacted several industry experts via social media. I’ve had the vehicle inspected 4 times locally. I’ve had multiple alignments. I’ve had the tires balanced 3 times. Ive checked the torque specs on every nut and bolt. I’ve had the TSB performed, which helped but has not resolved wobbles. After each repair or change, I’ve experienced a reprieve only for the death wobble to return a few weeks later. It’s now 9 months later and an additional 13k miles.

the wife and I just returned from a 2500 mile trip. During that time, we experienced death wobble 7 times. The rest of the time, we drove in fear of every bump and bridge over pass. This was the first time the wife experienced it and now understands why I haven’t been letting her drive it. This is not normal.

I think I’m done. I’ve exhausted all of my resources. I’ve spent around $4,000. I’ve spent numerous hours under the vehicle and researching. I don’t have any new ideas and can’t keep doing this.

In addition, I have an oil leak somewhere that is burning on the drivers side exhaust manifold. Service department has looked at and denied to resolve. I may have them look at again. The smell is nauseating when the windows down and reminds me of my ‘90 YJ that leaked a quart of oil every 3k miles.

Also, on our trip, the Uconnect started rebooting randomly. First time it’s ever done that in 23k miles. No reason I can find but I’ve heard of others having similar issues


In the future, what do I get to look forward to? Apparently my lockers can quit working at any point. It’s likely I’ll have corrosion issues around my hinges and aluminum doors. What else?

I’m tired. Might start looking at stupid Toyota 4runners. They’re outdated and boring, but at least I can drive 70 on the interstate and not be in fear. That’s worth something.

2425326E-4BBD-4240-84C6-7E979294A36B.jpeg
I have had Death Wobble on my 2019 JLUR. EVO Coilovers with Long Arms, less than 4000 miles on the Kit. It is my opinion that most death wobble comes from the track bar. Sure enough, the evo track bar in my case used a factory upper bushing. (I think many manufactures were using the factory busing early on) I pressed in a new bushing and it cleared the issue. 2 Day trip in and out of the rubicon and death wobble on the way home. It appears that significant articulation from a single trip destroys the upper bushing. I replaced the track bar with the Rock Krawler version which uses a heim on the lower connection and a greaseable anti-wobble joint at the frame. I will be changing out the rear as well, not that I have an issue with it yet but I believe it hinders movement. It is also my opinion that DW is a result of something allowing movement. That things like tires, tow can help show the problem but the movement is the issue. Very little Caster can be a problem but you covered that. Before jumping to the IFS Toyota side, I encourage you to spend additional time looking for the movement. Get someone to twist the wheel back and forth continuously while you wheel around on a creeper looking for the movement between components. Given all the work you have done on other components and settings thus far, I would not be surprised if the upper track bar bushing has slight movement. You may not be able to move it bt shaking it but again, having someone at the wheel, Tires on the ground, hands at 3 and 9, twisting to 12 and 6 back and forth over and over, while you look at every suspension component. Upper and Lower Track bar, Upper and lower control arms at the frame and axel. Note that the axel side bushings are factory and are not replaced with aftermarket control arms. I also had movement here so I pressed in the JK version Johnny joint on the drivers side and did a little hole saw machining to fit the passenger axel side Johnny joint. I am no expert, just trying to offer a few things and hoping you find it. Good luck
 
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Air Uncle P

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Yes my profile says Toyota Sienna. Moved to Colorado 16 years ago. Ten years ago I decided I wanted a Wrangler. Started making all the bad dad jokes…. shaking every gift I received. “Are the Wrangler keys in here?” Well this September the keys weren’t in the box but a picture of a Wrangler was. It was time. If a JLRU spec’d to my likely was in Colorado it would now be in my driveway. 99% ready to order. After reading this thread and doing additional research, I have firmly pressed the PAUSE button.
 

Zotch

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Yes my profile says Toyota Sienna. Moved to Colorado 16 years ago. Ten years ago I decided I wanted a Wrangler. Started making all the bad dad jokes…. shaking every gift I received. “Are the Wrangler keys in here?” Well this September the keys weren’t in the box but a picture of a Wrangler was. It was time. If a JLRU spec’d to my likely was in Colorado it would now be in my driveway. 99% ready to order. After reading this thread and doing additional research, I have firmly pressed the PAUSE button.
Every car model from every manufacturer has people complaining about issues.

If we all pressed "pause" no cars would be sold :fingerscrossed::fingerscrossed::fingerscrossed:
 

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CarbonSteel

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It is my opinion that most death wobble comes from the track bar. Sure enough, the evo track bar in my case used a factory upper bushing. (I think many manufactures were using the factory busing early on) I pressed in a new bushing and it cleared the issue. 2 Day trip in and out of the rubicon and death wobble on the way home. It appears that significant articulation from a single trip destroys the upper bushing.
The fact the FCA uses crimped ends on their suspension "connections" does not help anything. They flex, which wears the bushing prematurely which then accelerates the onset of DW.
 
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Yes my profile says Toyota Sienna. Moved to Colorado 16 years ago. Ten years ago I decided I wanted a Wrangler. Started making all the bad dad jokes…. shaking every gift I received. “Are the Wrangler keys in here?” Well this September the keys weren’t in the box but a picture of a Wrangler was. It was time. If a JLRU spec’d to my likely was in Colorado it would now be in my driveway. 99% ready to order. After reading this thread and doing additional research, I have firmly pressed the PAUSE button.
I’ve owned other solid axle vehicles and jeeps and never had anything like this happen before. I wouldn’t consider this normal.
 

FireWorxFire

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Ok.. I tried reading everyone's replies so I apologize if I mention something that may have been covered.

I agree with everyone that says ball joint replacement. I agree with everyone saying don't focus on any type on bandaid like a SS. SO... while I agree, and you are getting some solid advice on this forum from members, you keep stating what would we do if it were our JLUR? Here is exactly what I'd do as I've had this issue on 3 JKs, and while the JL is actually a different beast they still share the same design concepts.

1) Replace the entire front axle. Period.
Why? New factory axles will come with new ball joints, saves you a $600-$800 bill. You will also get new C's. You will also get a new axle that has possibly correct bracket alignment... think trackbar, LCAs, UCAs, etc.
You already have upgraded everything else in steering and longer LCAs with the Mopar lift.
2) Make sure you have the Mopar springs installed on the correct side, L-R.
3) Make sure you have the latest spring pad for those springs.
4) Have an extra set of front shocks available, stock will do if you have them.
5) Make sure every bolt that connects to the axle is TQ'd with a VERIFIED wrench. Hate when techs get this wrong. Also test each bolt to ensure the holes haven't wallowed out some. I dont like play even if it seems TQd tight.

I would, and have done exactly this in the past with success on all of them. Dont chase or guess after all you have done already. It started prior to mods which means it is an OE issue. Proving it to FCA is difficult but not impossible. Personally not worth the fight since you have part options.
Why the extra shocks? Because if all else fails the only thing left is a bad shock or spring unloading when hitting a bump. Price is not bad for some basic shocks if need be, and springs are a couple hundred at most. But... the new axle with all the new brackets, ball joints, C's, etc. Will enure a peice of mind regardless and isn't a waste. 37s? Lift? Off reading in Colorado... those ball joints will die in 25k regardless. But at least new axle and parts that come on it will get you at least a min 25k miles further before upgrading them. Why another factory axle? Because if push came to shove you can't be denied warranty on stock parts replacement. The proof in repair might just land you a trip to lawville and get the axle reimbursed.

Don't give up yet as you are literally so close to resolve. Sorry you are experiencing DW as it really sucks. But, get it resolved and not only do you now know your Jeep better than your spouse, but you know what to do when it happens again. Again???? Yup it can happen again on any solid axle vehicle but the trick is finding it, fixing it, and maintaining it for worry free fun! Good luck and everyone is here for you.
 

Jodh

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Halstem1

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Ok.. I tried reading everyone's replies so I apologize if I mention something that may have been covered.

I agree with everyone that says ball joint replacement. I agree with everyone saying don't focus on any type on bandaid like a SS. SO... while I agree, and you are getting some solid advice on this forum from members, you keep stating what would we do if it were our JLUR? Here is exactly what I'd do as I've had this issue on 3 JKs, and while the JL is actually a different beast they still share the same design concepts.

1) Replace the entire front axle. Period.
Why? New factory axles will come with new ball joints, saves you a $600-$800 bill. You will also get new C's. You will also get a new axle that has possibly correct bracket alignment... think trackbar, LCAs, UCAs, etc.
You already have upgraded everything else in steering and longer LCAs with the Mopar lift.
2) Make sure you have the Mopar springs installed on the correct side, L-R.
3) Make sure you have the latest spring pad for those springs.
4) Have an extra set of front shocks available, stock will do if you have them.
5) Make sure every bolt that connects to the axle is TQ'd with a VERIFIED wrench. Hate when techs get this wrong. Also test each bolt to ensure the holes haven't wallowed out some. I dont like play even if it seems TQd tight.

I would, and have done exactly this in the past with success on all of them. Dont chase or guess after all you have done already. It started prior to mods which means it is an OE issue. Proving it to FCA is difficult but not impossible. Personally not worth the fight since you have part options.
Why the extra shocks? Because if all else fails the only thing left is a bad shock or spring unloading when hitting a bump. Price is not bad for some basic shocks if need be, and springs are a couple hundred at most. But... the new axle with all the new brackets, ball joints, C's, etc. Will enure a peice of mind regardless and isn't a waste. 37s? Lift? Off reading in Colorado... those ball joints will die in 25k regardless. But at least new axle and parts that come on it will get you at least a min 25k miles further before upgrading them. Why another factory axle? Because if push came to shove you can't be denied warranty on stock parts replacement. The proof in repair might just land you a trip to lawville and get the axle reimbursed.

Don't give up yet as you are literally so close to resolve. Sorry you are experiencing DW as it really sucks. But, get it resolved and not only do you now know your Jeep better than your spouse, but you know what to do when it happens again. Again???? Yup it can happen again on any solid axle vehicle but the trick is finding it, fixing it, and maintaining it for worry free fun! Good luck and everyone is here for you.
Thanks for the detailed response! I had considered a replacement axle if I knew it was the fix. As you said, it addresses multiple issues before I start putting any money into this axle. It would be hard to justify a factory replacement and not a UD44 that adds FAD delete, chromoly shafts, larger C’s and brackets. I have t fully looked into that option. What is my stock axle worth to sell and recoup some funds? Like hydro steering, one of the most expensive options.
 

four low

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Recouping funds on an axle assembly that may be a Death Star for an unsuspecting buyer, or even an informed buyer? Selling it piece by piece maybe, after you do a complete replacement, as per that Excellent Advice.
 
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Halstem1

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Recouping funds on an axle assembly that may be a Death Star for an unsuspecting buyer, or even an informed buyer? Selling it piece by piece maybe, after you do a complete replacement, as per that Excellent Advice.
I thought about that too. But even as an “as is” discounted price, it’s still worth something. I would be more worried if I knew something was wrong with it. I have no idea. And no clue what it’s going on. But good point. I was more worried a D44 with a FAD wasn’t worth as much. Looks like you can get an UD44 for 4500$-ish. Not sure if you can sell old for 1000$. 3500$ gets chromoly shafts ($800), ball joints ($500), regear ($1000)... starts looking attractive. If I knew it fixed it.
 

four low

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You have displayed remarkable patience and perseverance in sorting this out. Sticking with this vehicle gives you great insight into every aspect, good, and not so much. Trade for something else ?? There is nothing else, most of us have had Dalliances with other brands ; they may be fast, they may be " fun", but their scope is narrow, and their low- hanging fruit no match for the trails that beckon. One last hurdle, complete axel assembly, and Life as It Should Be returns
 

Mane

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Yes my profile says Toyota Sienna. Moved to Colorado 16 years ago. Ten years ago I decided I wanted a Wrangler. Started making all the bad dad jokes…. shaking every gift I received. “Are the Wrangler keys in here?” Well this September the keys weren’t in the box but a picture of a Wrangler was. It was time. If a JLRU spec’d to my likely was in Colorado it would now be in my driveway. 99% ready to order. After reading this thread and doing additional research, I have firmly pressed the PAUSE button.
Smart move. Coming from a Sienna, I wager you'd make it maybe a year in the Jeep before getting fed up with the substandard build quality and going back to a Toyota product. At least you wouldn't lose much money unless you went whole hog in the aftermarket.

To be fair, I liked my Wrangler, and sure, the Jeeps can and do go anywhere... but my lord are they junky. It ended up being too much for me to handle for a vehicle that costs as much as they do.
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