Reaching my breaking point... may consider trading my JLUR

vavaroutsos

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A go-pro won't show caster issues, nothing need be loose -- DW from caster is just physics

I agree it's VERY unlikely but if the axle was built on a Friday afternoon it's possible one inner C is several degrees off from the other.

Seriously, we're down the list to the "very unlikely" items so it'd be remiss to not at least CHECK. It is difficult to find a good place on each knuckle but I'd try.

The theory being if caster is being measured at the flat on the pumpkin that doesn't mean each inner C is inline with where it should be.

I know it sounds laughable but this is something non-invasive that can be verified solely from LOOKING and MEASURING. No parts need be removed and no wrenches need be abused. NOW, if an initial inspection lead me to believe something was amiss left to right I'd absolutely be dropping the knuckles and putting a straight edge in the bores of the inner C's and checking that with an angle finder.

I hope I'm wrong but I thought OP started the thread for "thinking outside the box" suggestions......well, here's one and it won't cost you a dime or a single aftermarket part.

As Sean said, I'm sure a delta of 1 degree is no big deal. 2? Probably ok. At 3 I'd be concerned 'cause you could have one wheel at 6.2 and the other at 3.2

Again, just a WILD idea that's probably a wild goose chase but FREE to inspect.
I don't think this is the issue since he said the Jeep used to drive fine. That being said it doesn't take long to put an Wixey angle gauge on the Cs and check them. I think there's a flat spot on the bottom if I remember correctly.





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JSFoster75

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My wife and I both had death wobble, replacing the OEM steering dampener with the fox 2.0 stabilizer fixed them both.
 
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A go-pro won't show caster issues, nothing need be loose -- DW from caster is just physics

I agree it's VERY unlikely but if the axle was built on a Friday afternoon it's possible one inner C is several degrees off from the other.

Seriously, we're down the list to the "very unlikely" items so it'd be remiss to not at least CHECK. It is difficult to find a good place on each knuckle but I'd try.

The theory being if caster is being measured at the flat on the pumpkin that doesn't mean each inner C is inline with where it should be.

I know it sounds laughable but this is something non-invasive that can be verified solely from LOOKING and MEASURING. No parts need be removed and no wrenches need be abused. NOW, if an initial inspection lead me to believe something was amiss left to right I'd absolutely be dropping the knuckles and putting a straight edge in the bores of the inner C's and checking that with an angle finder.

I hope I'm wrong but I thought OP started the thread for "thinking outside the box" suggestions......well, here's one and it won't cost you a dime or a single aftermarket part.

As Sean said, I'm sure a delta of 1 degree is no big deal. 2? Probably ok. At 3 I'd be concerned 'cause you could have one wheel at 6.2 and the other at 3.2

Again, just a WILD idea that's probably a wild goose chase but FREE to inspect.
I have personally checked caster at the Cs. Like you said, there isn’t a good machined spot but you can get close on the bottom of the C. They aren’t equal but the bottom isn’t flat. They’re within tenth of degrees. Close enough that I don’t think they are drastically different. Good thought though. I had a similar concern with caster or a misplaced mounting point. I can’t find anything that would make me think that’s the case.
 

JSFoster75

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You are going to find your issue and it will be the last place you look.
I certainly hope so, if he fixes it and continues to look I think that’s called stupidity :) :)
 

JSFoster75

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Do you have wheel spacers or a large wheel offset? My dealer told me that if I go with anything more than a 1 inch offset/wheel spacer, it will wear out the ball joints and bearings very quickly.
 

sourdough

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If this JLUR ran fine for 12,000 miles the problem is a wear item. what happened to the warranty? Ball joint issue can be diagnosed and should be repaired under warranty
I purchased the vehicle new with a Mopar lift and 37’s already installed.
Persevere OP
Bottom line, The dealer needs to warranty what they sold. 12,000 miles is within the warranty implied at the sale unless otherwise expressed. Press the warranty coverage or cover the ball joint replacement yourself.
Sorry to hear you have thrown $4,000 at it already but all was not wasted. I have over 25,000 miles on my ’19 JLR with 37” tires and AEV JL wheels. Like you, I have upgraded all the steering linkage system including your removed Synergy T.B./sector shaft brace. Mine steers beautifully. I will be interested in your Ball Joint findings as a future reference. Keep us posted.
 
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Sean K.

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A go-pro won't show caster issues, nothing need be loose -- DW from caster is just physics

I agree it's VERY unlikely but if the axle was built on a Friday afternoon it's possible one inner C is several degrees off from the other.

Seriously, we're down the list to the "very unlikely" items so it'd be remiss to not at least CHECK. It is difficult to find a good place on each knuckle but I'd try.

The theory being if caster is being measured at the flat on the pumpkin that doesn't mean each inner C is inline with where it should be.

I know it sounds laughable but this is something non-invasive that can be verified solely from LOOKING and MEASURING. No parts need be removed and no wrenches need be abused. NOW, if an initial inspection lead me to believe something was amiss left to right I'd absolutely be dropping the knuckles and putting a straight edge in the bores of the inner C's and checking that with an angle finder.

I hope I'm wrong but I thought OP started the thread for "thinking outside the box" suggestions......well, here's one and it won't cost you a dime or a single aftermarket part.

As Sean said, I'm sure a delta of 1 degree is no big deal. 2? Probably ok. At 3 I'd be concerned 'cause you could have one wheel at 6.2 and the other at 3.2

Again, just a WILD idea that's probably a wild goose chase but FREE to inspect.
I think at 2° you got problems. When I've done them....I matched them to the degree....like same hash mark. Within 1° might be okay...might not. IMO, you'd want them to match if at all possible...but that's also measuring with a correctly sized boring bar passing through the kingpins to get the angle.

I haven't gone outside to even look, so I have no idea if you can find a decent spot to check on the knuckle.....but I'd think there should be someplace that would be able to give an idea.

I don't think it's a wild idea at all....worth checking for sure.
 

Sean K.

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Do you have wheel spacers or a large wheel offset? My dealer told me that if I go with anything more than a 1 inch offset/wheel spacer, it will wear out the ball joints and bearings very quickly.
We're running 37" PBRRs, Spidertrax 1.75" spacers AND reasonably shallow offset (-20mm) on her beadlocks.....but we're only at 9Kish miles and stock suspension. So far, no DW......but that's a good point.

Now, having had the tires/wheels on almost that whole 9K, I'd think as radical as the combined offset is on ours, if it was a problem, we'd be experiencing it too....but we don't have a lift and no two vehicles are identical.
 

Sean K.

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I have personally checked caster at the Cs. Like you said, there isn’t a good machined spot but you can get close on the bottom of the C. They aren’t equal but the bottom isn’t flat. They’re within tenth of degrees. Close enough that I don’t think they are drastically different. Good thought though. I had a similar concern with caster or a misplaced mounting point. I can’t find anything that would make me think that’s the case.

I'd say that's probably good enough for the time being......for now, we can check that one off the list.
 

Blu bi Kong

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That sounds like quite a pain in the ass journey. I sped thru the 12 pages hoping you found a fix. Sure doesn't sound right.
Mine is a 2018 Rubicon with almost all the work done in my garage by me.

Death wobble twice in stock configuration with less than 1000 miles
Swapped to a simple Rancho stabilizer, no further issue
Installed MetalCloak 3.5 gamechanger w/6paks at 1400 miles
Left stock tires on until 11,000
New Mammoth Boulder beadlock look alike wheels on 35" KO 2's 11,000-44,000
Re geared to 4:88's and put on 37 x 12.50 x 17 Kanati Trail Hogs and broke in to 44,600 and Had Hoopers Rear End change fluid to Castrol Syntax
Just drove 3400 miles from CA to NV, UT, CO, WY, AZ and home zero issues
Home with 49,000 on it. I wish I had kept a mileage record of off road driving but Ill have to guess that it's seen a minimum of 8 thousand off road miles.
Long story to lean towards what is undoubtedly something silly that has been overlooked. Big bummer and a half!
Also, I have had the stock recalled steering stabilizer on since roughly 15,000 miles and the tie rod, drag link, bushings and balljoints are all stock.
I'd love to help if I could, just not sure how to do that!! Sounds like a real challenge.
Vic
 

Spank

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It's gotta be the balljoints. I mean, there's virtually nothing else to tweak, adjust, or replace. You've done it all.
 

Heimkehr

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if I were forced to get rid of my Wrangler, the only other thing I see myself in would be a Grand Cherokee with a big honking HEMI. [The] WK2 is a handsome truck that has been in production long enough to have had most bugs worked out.
My brother currently has a 2017 WK2 Trailhawk, his fourth Grand Cherokee. It's the nicest rig that he's ever owned, and to date has been trouble-free. 5.7L Hemi, power ashtray, the works.


My wife has a 2016 Grand Cherokee Altitude ecodiesel. It’s been a trouble-free performer for just under 50,000 miles. It used to get 31 mpg on the highway until FCA was forced to reflash it.

Now it has less grunt and fuel economy has dropped to about 28 on the highway, 24 mpg overall, but she still loves it.
My brother's other car, the one he bought new for his wife, is a 2012 Jetta TDI. It's a confirmed cheater car as it relates to VW's non-compliance with established emission programming requirements. Having authenticated the material reduction in fuel mileage and performance on Jetta TDIs that have been reflashed by VW dealers, he's been careful to use independent shops for the annual State safety inspections. It will never see the inside of a dealer service department, so long as he owns it. VW has sent him innumerable letters, almost pleading with him to take his car to them for a "no charge fix".

That's not going to happen.
 

JSFoster75

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My brother currently has a 2017 WK2 Trailhawk, his fourth Grand Cherokee. It's the nicest rig that he's ever owned, and to date has been trouble-free. 5.7L Hemi, power ashtray, the works.



My brother's other car, the one he bought new for his wife, is a 2012 Jetta TDI. It's a confirmed cheater car as it relates to VW's non-compliance with established emission programming requirements. Having authenticated the material reduction in fuel mileage and performance on Jetta TDIs that have been reflashed by VW dealers, he's been careful to use independent shops for the annual State safety inspections. It will never see the inside of a dealer service department, so long as he owns it. VW has sent him innumerable letters, almost pleading with him to take his car to them for a "no charge fix".

That's not going to happen.
a friend of mine got a $7,000 check in the mail for his VW as part of the settlement deal
 

DadJokes

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YouTube channel JL Life Offroad swapped to new Spicer all metal/greaseable ball joints earlier this year. I think it’s a relatively recent release still. Anyway, he said they had death wobble until they did that fwiw.

 

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