Reaching my breaking point... may consider trading my JLUR

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Halstem1

Halstem1

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I’m an engineer. :)

Just taking a shot in the dark here, but I’d bet a cold 6 pack the lift and 37s are to blame. If you could roll back (even temporarily) to 33s and no lift, you may find the issue is resolved. That would help someone knowledgeable identify the weak link.
The issue is resolved or the symptoms subside? Not the same thing.





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Not disagreeing with you. But just some thoughts after reading.

I purchased the vehicle new with a Mopar lift and 37’s already installed. Going to completely stock is impossible for me.

also, until semi recent (3k miles ago) the only other mods installed was a steer smarts drag link, tie rod, and track bar. All 3 items were installed correctly. There was zero movement in any of the bushings or tie rod ends. I don’t claim to be an engineer, but there is not a lot of complexity to a well built drag link, tie rod, or track bar. Someone would have to explain to me how the stock components would be better giving it did it with the stock components installed.

to be honest, I’ll trade it before I try to return 100% to stock. Haha
Have you explored lemon law? If the dealer sold it with the lift and 37s then there shouldn't be any questions about "mods." I know it varies from state to state, but seems if they have not been able to solve the problem over multiple attempts, that's exactly what lemon law is designed to remedy.
 
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Have you explored lemon law? If the dealer sold it with the lift and 37s then there shouldn't be any questions about "mods." I know it varies from state to state, but seems if they have not been able to solve the problem over multiple attempts, that's exactly what lemon law is designed to remedy.
I’m not dealing with lemon law stuff. I can’t even say this qualifies. It’s not that the dealer can’t fix it. They won’t even diagnose it. Refused to look at it. Checked components and alignment. Are we’re within spec. I don’t think that qualifies as lemon law.
 

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The issue is resolved or the symptoms subside? Not the same thing.
Yes and no - If the change results in the desired effect, someone knowledgeable can pinpoint the problem to maybe the 37s being too heavy for the OEM lift, shocks, etc. That’s out of my swim lane, but they’ll be able to remedy the problem by identifying and beefing up the weak link, based on you being able to identify the components that introduce the symptoms. (E.g If I bend like this it hurts...otherwise it doesn’t.)
 

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I purchased the vehicle new with a Mopar lift and 37’s already installed. Going to completely stock is impossible for me.
That changes things.....the dealer should be handling this. Now, granted...you went 12K miles before there was a problem....which means something wore out in that time. The question remains: what? And how do you fix it so you get a lot more than 12K miles out of whatever component or components are causing the problem.
 
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That changes things.....the dealer should be handling this. Now, granted...you went 12K miles before there was a problem....which means something wore out in that time. The question remains: what? And how do you fix it so you get a lot more than 12K miles out of whatever component or components are causing the problem.
Right. Agreed. Looked at by 2 dealers. One more helpful than the other. Both said they can’t do anymore than check remaining OE components and alignment spec. I started replacing components with upgraded parts to compensate for extra weight of tires and stress of lift. In theory parts that would last more than 12k miles.

my argument with “returning to stock” is that still does not ensure the dealer with actually diagnose the problem. The dealer that was most helpful performed my steering TSB. He couldn’t care less that I had aftermarket steering components. But he was still unable to diagnose my death wobble issue. The dealer in my area is no help. If it had happened day one or month one, I might have an argument.
 

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Right. Agreed. Looked at by 2 dealers. One more helpful than the other. Both said they can’t do anymore than check remaining OE components and alignment spec. I started replacing components with upgraded parts to compensate for extra weight of tires and stress of lift. In theory parts that would last more than 12k miles.

my argument with “returning to stock” is that still does not ensure the dealer with actually diagnose the problem. The dealer that was most helpful performed my steering TSB. He couldn’t care less that I had aftermarket steering components. But he was still unable to diagnose my death wobble issue. The dealer in my area is no help. If it had happened day one or month one, I might have an argument.
At this point if you feel you have checked everything and can't find a problem I would suggest the following:

1) Find an isolated portion of road where you can reliably create the death wobble.
2) Mount a go pro to the bottom of the front bumper and start getting some footage of before/after the death wobble event.

It shouldn't be to difficult to identify where the looseness is coming from if you have video to analyze.
 

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Not meant to be triggering. But need to just reach out as a last hope, although I’m not expecting any miracles.

I think I’ve reached my breaking point. After 9 months of issues, I’m legit contemplating other vehicle options. Sadly, my JLUR was my dream vehicle and there are not a lot of replacements. But I don’t think I have the energy to keep fighting my issues.

After 6 months and about 12k miles, I started having death wobble issues. Since, I’ve replaced every steering and suspension component. Ive reaches out to many forum members for help. I’ve contacted several industry experts via social media. I’ve had the vehicle inspected 4 times locally. I’ve had multiple alignments. I’ve had the tires balanced 3 times. Ive checked the torque specs on every nut and bolt. I’ve had the TSB performed, which helped but has not resolved wobbles. After each repair or change, I’ve experienced a reprieve only for the death wobble to return a few weeks later. It’s now 9 months later and an additional 13k miles.

the wife and I just returned from a 2500 mile trip. During that time, we experienced death wobble 7 times. The rest of the time, we drove in fear of every bump and bridge over pass. This was the first time the wife experienced it and now understands why I haven’t been letting her drive it. This is not normal.

I think I’m done. I’ve exhausted all of my resources. I’ve spent around $4,000. I’ve spent numerous hours under the vehicle and researching. I don’t have any new ideas and can’t keep doing this.

In addition, I have an oil leak somewhere that is burning on the drivers side exhaust manifold. Service department has looked at and denied to resolve. I may have them look at again. The smell is nauseating when the windows down and reminds me of my ‘90 YJ that leaked a quart of oil every 3k miles.

Also, on our trip, the Uconnect started rebooting randomly. First time it’s ever done that in 23k miles. No reason I can find but I’ve heard of others having similar issues


In the future, what do I get to look forward to? Apparently my lockers can quit working at any point. It’s likely I’ll have corrosion issues around my hinges and aluminum doors. What else?

I’m tired. Might start looking at stupid Toyota 4runners. They’re outdated and boring, but at least I can drive 70 on the interstate and not be in fear. That’s worth something.

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Haven't been able to read through this whole thread but have you or has anyone checked or suggested checking the hubs and wheel bearings? I've had them go bad in a different vehicle on the highway and it wasn't pleasant. I wish you luck man that sucks
 

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At this point if you feel you have checked everything and can't find a problem I would suggest the following:

1) Find an isolated portion of road where you can reliably create the death wobble.
2) Mount a go pro to the bottom of the front bumper and start getting some footage of before/after the death wobble event.

It shouldn't be to difficult to identify where the looseness is coming from if you have video to analyze.
THIS! Plus, if you haven’t already done it, get someone to move the steering wheel back and forth while you‘re under the Jeep looking for any movement in any of the bushings, linkages and even the mounts themselves - maybe one of the mounts is weak and allowing movement.
 
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Halstem1

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THIS! Plus, if you haven’t already done it, get someone to move the steering wheel back and forth while you‘re under the Jeep looking for any movement in any of the bushings, linkages and even the mounts themselves - maybe one of the mounts is weak and allowing movement.
I have done this. Multiple times. This is why I don’t think it’s a traditional issue.

I may invest in a go pro.
 

Sean K.

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Right. Agreed. Looked at by 2 dealers. One more helpful than the other. Both said they can’t do anymore than check remaining OE components and alignment spec. I started replacing components with upgraded parts to compensate for extra weight of tires and stress of lift. In theory parts that would last more than 12k miles.

my argument with “returning to stock” is that still does not ensure the dealer with actually diagnose the problem. The dealer that was most helpful performed my steering TSB. He couldn’t care less that I had aftermarket steering components. But he was still unable to diagnose my death wobble issue. The dealer in my area is no help. If it had happened day one or month one, I might have an argument.
I agree. No point in going backwards (back to stock parts) at this point. It's set up the way you want it....you now just have to find the problem and fix it. The people that are suggesting returning to stock mean well, but the PITA involved in swapping parts, not to mention the expense, especially when going from aftermarket 'beefier' parts back to factory, weaker ones doesn't make much sense.

Really, the only things left are knuckles and ball joints. Or slap the expensive PSC band-aid on it and call it good. Good luck with your decision. None of those are "cheap" if you're not doing it yourself.
 

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Yeah, I was reading that they have a frame reinforcement on the Mojaves.....I wouldn't be surprised if that all transferred over to the diesels as well.
I heard all 2021 frames have the thicker c-sections in a couple areas but not sure if it's true. From what I have been told, and looked when I was under a Mohave, you can not see these frame changes as it's just thicker material in a couple key areas.

I'd also not be shocked if we see a switch over to using the steel knuckles at some point in the future, for all models or perhaps only with certain front axles. (eg: all D44's get them, or something like that)
 

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I just think overall, quality has slipped on everything these days. Manufacturers keep adding all these jazzy technological upgrades that do nothing but cause headaches. And they continue to skimp on quality with parts and other areas. It's a downright shame.

I honestly think these auto makers do it on purpose.
...probably trying to crank out cars quickly and cheaply and they're sacrificing quality as a result.
Post of the year. I agree, everything is about cost cutting now when we should arugably have the best vehicles of all time. Isn't it sad that my 88 YJ had less issues than many are having here in the first year of ownership?? I wonder how many JLs will make it 32 years and still be in 'good shape' like my old Jeep? Sadly, sold it to a friend, but I still see it.
That said, my wife has a 2016 Honda Pilot with nearly 120k which has been basically trouble free. They can make good cars. Before that we had a Buick Enclave, similar to your Acadia, that had some kind of climate control deformity that requires the whole dash to be taken apart. Also a clicking steering wheel. Long story short, we traded it in.
 

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A go-pro won't show caster issues, nothing need be loose -- DW from caster is just physics

I agree it's VERY unlikely but if the axle was built on a Friday afternoon it's possible one inner C is several degrees off from the other.

Seriously, we're down the list to the "very unlikely" items so it'd be remiss to not at least CHECK. It is difficult to find a good place on each knuckle but I'd try.

The theory being if caster is being measured at the flat on the pumpkin that doesn't mean each inner C is inline with where it should be.

I know it sounds laughable but this is something non-invasive that can be verified solely from LOOKING and MEASURING. No parts need be removed and no wrenches need be abused. NOW, if an initial inspection lead me to believe something was amiss left to right I'd absolutely be dropping the knuckles and putting a straight edge in the bores of the inner C's and checking that with an angle finder.

I hope I'm wrong but I thought OP started the thread for "thinking outside the box" suggestions......well, here's one and it won't cost you a dime or a single aftermarket part.

As Sean said, I'm sure a delta of 1 degree is no big deal. 2? Probably ok. At 3 I'd be concerned 'cause you could have one wheel at 6.2 and the other at 3.2

Again, just a WILD idea that's probably a wild goose chase but FREE to inspect.
 

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