Reaching my breaking point... may consider trading my JLUR

[Halstem1]

Not meant to be triggering. But need to just reach out as a last hope, although I’m not expecting any miracles.

I think I’ve reached my breaking point. After 9 months of issues, I’m legit contemplating other vehicle options. Sadly, my JLUR was my dream vehicle and there are not a lot of replacements. But I don’t think I have the energy to keep fighting my issues.

After 6 months and about 12k miles, I started having death wobble issues. Since, I’ve replaced every steering and suspension component. Ive reaches out to many forum members for help. I’ve contacted several industry experts via social media. I’ve had the vehicle inspected 4 times locally. I’ve had multiple alignments. I’ve had the tires balanced 3 times. Ive checked the torque specs on every nut and bolt. I’ve had the TSB performed, which helped but has not resolved wobbles. After each repair or change, I’ve experienced a reprieve only for the death wobble to return a few weeks later. It’s now 9 months later and an additional 13k miles.

the wife and I just returned from a 2500 mile trip. During that time, we experienced death wobble 7 times. The rest of the time, we drove in fear of every bump and bridge over pass. This was the first time the wife experienced it and now understands why I haven’t been letting her drive it. This is not normal.

I think I’m done. I’ve exhausted all of my resources. I’ve spent around $4,000. I’ve spent numerous hours under the vehicle and researching. I don’t have any new ideas and can’t keep doing this.

In addition, I have an oil leak somewhere that is burning on the drivers side exhaust manifold. Service department has looked at and denied to resolve. I may have them look at again. The smell is nauseating when the windows down and reminds me of my ‘90 YJ that leaked a quart of oil every 3k miles.

Also, on our trip, the Uconnect started rebooting randomly. First time it’s ever done that in 23k miles. No reason I can find but I’ve heard of others having similar issues


In the future, what do I get to look forward to? Apparently my lockers can quit working at any point. It’s likely I’ll have corrosion issues around my hinges and aluminum doors. What else?

I’m tired. Might start looking at stupid Toyota 4runners. They’re outdated and boring, but at least I can drive 70 on the interstate and not be in fear. That’s worth something.

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[chevymitchell]

Can you post your alignment specs from your last alignment?

 

[Halstem1]

Can you post your alignment specs from your last alignment?

I don’t have the sheet handy. Caster is currently 6.2 degrees. My current toe setting is 0.5 degrees toe out per steer smarts. Thrust angle is zero.

I’ve tried caster settings between 4.3 (stock) all the way up to 6.5 degrees. I’ve tried toe setting of 3/16, 1/8, 1/16 toe in. Also tried toe out starting at 1/16” out to my current setting.

track bar is center front and rear.

 

[aldo98229]

Sorry to hear, man. I know how discouraging it can be to spend so much money only to be so disappointed, and to own a vehicle that spends so much time in the shop.

I consider myself extremely lucky to have a JLU that hasn’t given me any issues in the first year. Knock on wood. But I have no illusions: it is not a matter of if, but when. So I enjoy my Jeep and take it one day at a time.

Good luck in your search!

PS - I dumped my last JKUR with only 8,000 miles and went to Toyota for a short stint. There was nothing really wrong with that Tacoma —well, the transmission SUCKED, but it didn’t do anything for me. So I came crawling back to Jeep. There’s no shame if you end up doing the same. Thankfully, those Toyotas hold their value like champs.

 

[chevymitchell]

I don’t have the sheet handy. Caster is currently 6.2 degrees. My current toe setting is 0.5 degrees toe out per steer smarts. Thrust angle is zero.

I’ve tried caster settings between 4.3 (stock) all the way up to 6.5 degrees. I’ve tried toe setting of 3/16, 1/8, 1/16 toe in. Also tried toe out starting at 1/16” out to my current setting.

track bar is center front and rear.

The adjustable track bars are great, but your track bar and drag link still need to be parallel. Has that been checked? Are you using any track bar bracket up front? It's not needed with your lift, just curious.

Also, has the cotter keys been taken out of the ball joint nuts, loosened, and then Re-TQ'd?

Check each adjuster (Tie rod and Drag Link) to make sure the adjusters themselves haven't been loosened and tightened too much where they're not clamping correctly anymore.

 

[aro]

I hope my Jeep will last for a very, very long time... but if not, at least until the next gen of 4Runner.

 

[chevymitchell]

I don’t have the sheet handy. Caster is currently 6.2 degrees. My current toe setting is 0.5 degrees toe out per steer smarts. Thrust angle is zero.

I’ve tried caster settings between 4.3 (stock) all the way up to 6.5 degrees. I’ve tried toe setting of 3/16, 1/8, 1/16 toe in. Also tried toe out starting at 1/16” out to my current setting.

track bar is center front and rear.

Are the steel cone inserts in the steersmarts joint on the knuckles?

The Steersmarts TQ Value is much higher than stock. It cannot be at stock TQ.

 

[Halstem1]

The adjustable track bars are great, but your track bar and drag link still need to be parallel. Has that been checked? Are you using any track bar bracket up front? It's not needed with your lift, just curious.

Also, has the cotter keys been taken out of the ball joint nuts, loosened, and then Re-TQ'd?

Check each adjuster (Tie rod and Drag Link) to make sure the adjusters themselves haven't been loosened and tightened too much where they're not clamping correctly anymore.

Yes, track bar and drag link still parallel. No track bar relocation up front.

per steer smarts recommendation, I cotter pins were removed and ball joints re-torqued. New cotter pins installed.

all adjusters have been checked. Zero evident movement.

thanks for the suggestions.

 

[Halstem1]

Are the steel cone inserts in the steersmarts joint on the knuckles?

The Steersmarts TQ Value is much higher than stock. It cannot be at stock TQ.

Yep. Both correct. Confirmed all install specs with Andy at steer smarts with pics and torque specs.

 

[chevymitchell]

There's something someone missed.

You don't have an unrepairable condition. I would jack it up and start from the drivers knuckle and do everything again.

 

[aro]

The fact that is was fine for 12k miles means that it must be some component, but it sure sounds like you ran out of things to check and recheck. The brute force approach would be to swap everything steering and geometry related in the front. It would cost a buck, and success is not guaranteed.

 

[Halstem1]

There's something someone missed.

You don't have an unrepairable condition. I would jack it up and start from the drivers knuckle and do everything again.

I keep thinking the same. I’ve actually removed and replaced new parts. I originally had a synergy steering system and replaced with steer smarts because I was insistent I had a bad part. I’ve been through everything multiple times. Every steering and suspension component has less than 5k miles on it.

 

[tts42572]

Is it just Jeeps though? How do you know you won't have issues with another vehicle?

I just think overall, quality has slipped on everything these days. Manufacturers keep adding all these jazzy technological upgrades that do nothing but cause headaches. And they continue to skimp on quality with parts and other areas. It's a downright shame.

I've had problems with many vehicles the last few years. My most recent vehicle was an Acadia I bought brand new in 2017. After one year and 10K miles, the car didn't pass inspection as the brakes were shot and of course brakes aren't under warranty. I also needed tires at around 20K miles which to me is a joke. And there was something else going on at one point where something was wrong with the engine that needed to be replaced in my first year of owning it.

My wife had an Equinox with all kinds of issues from the day we got it. There was some kind of issue with burning oil that caused us to spend a couple thousand dollars on it before a recall issue came out and GM had to essentially rebuild the engine. Of course they didn't refund or money from the same problem we'd been trying to have fixed.

Basically, I could go on an on with essentially every vehicle I've owned over the past 10-15 years. I'm not sure I can remember a good one. Honestly, I think the best one we had was a Jeep Cherokee about 15 years ago as I don't remember a whole lot of issues with that one. Maybe it's so long ago I just forgot lol.

I have a JULR on order and really looking forward to it. I'm hoping they've ironed out some issues with previous build years but I'm expecting issues at some point just like with every other vehicle these days.

I honestly think these auto makers do it on purpose. They know they can't make fantastic cars or people won't have to buy as many and it'll put them out of business. Parts and repairs are big business so they can't make them "too good". There's just no way they shouldn't be doing a better job today with all the past knowledge and technology they have at their disposal. I think part of it too is probably all this great technology they're using during builds and probably trying to crank out cars quickly and cheaply and they're sacrificing quality as a result.

 

[chevymitchell]

I keep thinking the same. I’ve actually removed and replaced new parts. I originally had a synergy steering system and replaced with steer smarts because I was insistent I had a bad part. I’ve been through everything multiple times. Every steering and suspension component has less than 5k miles on it.

When you had the alignment done, did they set the toe with the wheels on or off?

Rotate your tires and try to duplicate.

 

[MarkY3130]

I had death wobble I had trouble figuring out. What finally did it for me was pressing in the steersmarts ‘Pro’ poly bushings in the trackbar. The Steersmarts parts were new and for whatever reason were not sufficient until the poly bushings were used. It’s been wobble free for 9 months now.

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