Re-gear vs Axle Swap (2 Door Man. Sport S No anti-spin)

Shamwedge

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Hello everyone! Just joined the forums (Thanks for the add) and I’ve been reading a ton. That said, I probably should have done so before I built and ordered my Jeep last Saturday. I ordered a 2-door manual Sport S Wrangler, but I accidently forgot to include the anti-spin differential ☹

I would like to eventually put on a 3.5” MC lift with 35’s, maybe venture into 37’s, but realistically stick with 35’s. I’d also like to put in OX e-lockers, which is where my question comes into play.

I’ve been reading and trying to decipher the different axles, and gear ratio combos, where some say to re-gear, and others say just to swap out the axle with a used Rubi axle. Since, I didn’t include the anti-spin, I don’t get the upgraded dana 44 correct? If that’s the case, am I better off with looking for a Rubi axle, and if so, does it have to be from a JL Rubicon? Any thoughts on the front axle regarding lockers and 35’s?

Any thoughts and suggestions in general are greatly appreciated!





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Spaffy

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The manual transmission will get you the narrow Dana 44 (m220 narrow) even without the anti spin dif.

I wanted to go lower than a 4.10 ratio and I wanted OX or ARB lockers so I opted not to go for Rubicon takeoffs.

I've already ordered OX lockers for the m186 and m220 narrow and am leaning to 4.88s. I'm not planning on 37s- probably 35s max for the foreseeable future.

My initial plan was to get a Prorock44 right away; however, Im going to see how this combo holds up. If it works for me, outstanding. If it doesn't I'm going to get Dynatrac axles.
 

KeithM

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Anyway you can switch your order to a Rubicon? That will not only solve your axle/gearing issues, it will get you the 4:1 transfer case which IMO is very helpful with the manual transmission. If you are sticking the 35/37 range, I'd seriously consider it. Stockish Rubicon will probably hold it's value better then a Sport with swapped axles if you need help justifying the extra initial cost.

I'm running a manual JLUR on 35s and am very happy with the setup (1" spacers, terraflex bumpstops, Mopar LCAs and a Tazer to have higher speed swaybar disconnects just so I can run a little faster in the desert).
 
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Shamwedge

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The manual transmission will get you the narrow Dana 44 (m220 narrow) even without the anti spin dif.

I've already ordered OX lockers for the m186 and m220 narrow and am leaning to 4.88s. I'm not planning on 37s- probably 35s max for the foreseeable future.
Oh, that's interesting, I guess I lucked out on the rear axle then, cause I didn't know that about the manual transmission/axle detail.

No worries ordinary concerns about running lockers on the m186 front axle?

Anyway you can switch your order to a Rubicon?
Lol, if I could have afforded the Rubicon, I would have ordered that from the start 😜😜

What your saying makes sense about the resale value. That alone will probably deter me from getting the Rubi take offs. My plan is to keep this Jeep, at least until it's paid off at the very minimum, and use it as a trade in to hopefully afford a Rubicon the next time around. 🤞🙏
 

Spaffy

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No worries ordinary concerns about running lockers on the m186 front axle?
Is it going to be as strong as a D44? No.

I used to have a 97 TJ with the Dana 30/35 and ARB air lockers in both. I ran 35s on it. Never had an issue with the 30. Grenaded the 35 before the ARB and cromoly axles were installed....

I'm not planning on getting bigger tires for a while. I'm doing everything else before the lift/tires. I think it will hold up with the 32s on the Willys just fine and probably just fine with 35s and the off roading I do.

It was about $1300 for the locker, gears, and install kit for the stock m186. It would be about $6500 for the Prorock44 I'd order.

I'll report on how the m186 holds up as I find out!
 
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Shamwedge

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It was about $1300 for the locker, gears, and install kit for the stock m186. It would be about $6500 for the Prorock44 I'd order.

I'll report on how the m186 holds up as I find out!
Are you installing yourself, or you taking it to a shop? Look forward to the update and how it's held up for you.

Thanks for info and education.
 

Spaffy

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Are you installing yourself, or you taking it to a shop? Look forward to the update and how it's held up for you.

Thanks for info and education.
I'm going to install them myself. I've done a couple and have invested in the proper tools in the past. Love me a good tool! 😎

I'm going to try to take some pics and put up a little blurb about it here. There are already some gear install threads here though.
 
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Shamwedge

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I'm going to install them myself. I've done a couple and have invested in the proper tools in the past. Love me a good tool! 😎

I'm going to try to take some pics and put up a little blurb about it here. There are already some gear install threads here though.
That's awesome man. I wish I had the knowledge and confidence to tackle it on my own. I could do the wiring and all that but I stared watching this video,


Once he started measuring with the caliper type tool and doing math, I learned that I'm smart enough to do it on my own haha
 

Therby

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Ill get in on this thread.
Im a manual 2dr JL also

Regeared to 4.56.
Trussed front m186
Running 35s
Was waiting for OX, but being in Canada everything takes that much longer.

I’ve ordered a rear arb air locker RD245 for the time being.

If that goes well, i may invest a locker into the dana 30 but unsure. My end goal is 37s so i dont think its worth it, rather put the money into a 44
 

fat_head

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I'm going to install them myself. I've done a couple and have invested in the proper tools in the past. Love me a good tool! 😎

I'm going to try to take some pics and put up a little blurb about it here. There are already some gear install threads here though.
Buy at least 12 cans of brake clean. You're going to need it. I'm in the middle of a DIY regear + locker on my Sport and the rear was a mess. Full of sludge (LSD) and glitter. It took quite a bit of effort to get it all cleaned out before putting new bearings in.
 

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