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Quake LED releases Jeep JL Plug & Play DRL Halo Switchback Turn Signal Headlights & Fog Lights

tonyg30

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tonyg30

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Quake sent a harness that flipped the low/high beam wires. Plugged in line of the headlight and factory plug.
I sent Quake an email for the adapter. Hoping they will just send adapters to all who have purchased this package as it seems to be a known issue.
 

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a quick write up would be awesome!
a quick write up would be awesome!

For Sport-S, since you don't have any DRL wires run stock, one way to achieve DRL for the halos is to power the halos from your own relay. Going down this path you will have the option of using a switch or simply wiring into your fuse box. I chose to not use the switch provided with a foglight harness and use the Add-a-circuit as my "switch". Using Fuse 52 allows your DRL halos to come on whenever the car is in ACC or Running.

You'll need the following materials in addition to your QuakeLED Headlights:

1) Add-A-Circuit Fuse TAP (see pic)
2) Foglight Harness (typically comes with relay, wiring, switch(not used in this case; see pic)

Install:

1) Go into your hood fuse box and find F52 CIGAR LTR; this is the cabin Cigarette lighter (See pics)
2) Remove F52 fuse and replace with Add-A-Circuit. Use the stock Fuse and one of the provided fuses in the Add-A-Circuit Fuse. (See pics)
3) Cut a small notch in the Fuse Box cover an feed the wire off the Add-A-Circuit through the notch; You can do this with needle nose pliers or a rotary tool (see pics)
4) Follow instructions of Foglight harness to connect the realy Positive #7 wire to the positive battery terminal and relay ground wire #8 to the ground connection near the fuse box (See pics)
5) Cut off the stock switch harness. Use the positive wire to connect to the Add-a-circuit wire you previously installed. The fuse is now your switch.
6) Route fog light harness as needed to make it to the QuakeLED headlights. Tie the red wires coming off the QuakeLED headlights into the positive wire of the foglight connections. I didn't actually need to use the ground wire of the foglight connection due to the nature of the QuakeLED circuits. Feel free to ground if you please. (no pics on this part).


Hope this helps.

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snowd0gg

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I bought this package, Headlights and Fogs. Both with Halos. Received them this week and haven't installed, plan to this weekend. I have read the directions and it looks pretty simple plug and play. Each Headlight and Foglight has an adapter the fits in-between the stock connection harness and new LED light. These adapters then have additional connections that connect to the Turn signal fender light with has an adapter that fits between the light build and the stock connection. I am assuming that is where the halos are getting their power from. I post pics of the install if possible.

UPDATE:
Installed yesterday. Super simple plug and play. Took about 2 hrs, most of that time was figuring out where the fender light connection was located, which both are towards the rear of the engine bay. They look great and super bright. The halos only come on when the lights/foglight or turn signals are on. They are not on if set to Auto, but i don't have DRL.

IMG_4538.jpg
Any details on how much of a hassle it was to plug into the fender connectors for the halo? Neither is all that easy to get to, but the passenger side looks tough with the ground wires and also that plastic shroud around other cables. Just wondering if it's more my mind saying it's going to be tough to do and reality isn't so bad. :)
 

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Jondrew

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Any details on how much of a hassle it was to plug into the fender connectors for the halo? Neither is all that easy to get to, but the passenger side looks tough with the ground wires and also that plastic shroud around other cables. Just wondering if it's more my mind saying it's going to be tough to do and reality isn't so bad. :)
Its a royal PIA. I dont think I have particularly large hands, but I could not get in there to pull the tape off the way the instructions show. So I did something I would not recommend. I got my hand on the connector, and pulled until it broke free of the fender mounting. I was then able to unclip the connector (pull the red tab back and put a small screwdriver in the other end to release the tab). I put my T-Connector in and then zip tied the connector back in place.

I believe there is a video floating around here somewhere showing how to take the fenders off fairly easily. I think they are held on with reusable plastic connectors. Once you get the fender off, you may be able to get to the connector easier.

I also took some Di-electric insulating grease and squirted that in splice connectors to keep water out. You can buy it at any auto store or on Amazon.

Overall, I like the lights. I have the halos wired directly to the battery. I need to get an inline fuse to put between the halo and the lights.

As other have noted, these appear to be 7” lights with a mounting bracket to fil the 9” hole. Some dont like the look. I do.
 

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Let me know your washer placement. Interested in in comparing notes.
No washers used and no complaints from on coming traffic. I have 35” tires on a Mopar 2” lift.
 

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Let me know your washer placement. Interested in in comparing notes.
One washer on each. Upper left corner. It just looked to me like it needed a shift to the right. Nobody flashing me yet. Stock Rubi 33s, no lift
 

snowd0gg

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Its a royal PIA. I dont think I have particularly large hands, but I could not get in there to pull the tape off the way the instructions show. So I did something I would not recommend. I got my hand on the connector, and pulled until it broke free of the fender mounting. I was then able to unclip the connector (pull the red tab back and put a small screwdriver in the other end to release the tab). I put my T-Connector in and then zip tied the connector back in place.

I believe there is a video floating around here somewhere showing how to take the fenders off fairly easily. I think they are held on with reusable plastic connectors. Once you get the fender off, you may be able to get to the connector easier.

I also took some Di-electric insulating grease and squirted that in splice connectors to keep water out. You can buy it at any auto store or on Amazon.

Overall, I like the lights. I have the halos wired directly to the battery. I need to get an inline fuse to put between the halo and the lights.

As other have noted, these appear to be 7” lights with a mounting bracket to fil the 9” hole. Some dont like the look. I do.
After looking around, I found this video of removing the fender flare which looks like might be the easiest way to get to the passenger side connector. It's wide open and looks like the fender removal is pretty easy.
 

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After looking around, I found this video of removing the fender flare which looks like might be the easiest way to get to the passenger side connector. It's wide open and looks like the fender removal is pretty easy.
Yea, that’s it. Definitely the way to go. @Rhinebeck01 had send me this, but it was after I’d done the install. Next time
 

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@Quake LED Are you guys offering any discount codes like Inspired Engineering on the JL headlights?
 

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So I have a question for those of us who do not have the DRL options (myself) looking at that guys set up I like the addition of the inline fuse adapter that he has coming off the box but if your system is plug and play cant you just run that fuse straight to the DRL hailo wire and directly install (splice) into that and have the lights on while the vehicle is running / on if that fuse is one that operates that way??? I phrase it that way because why would you need the resister and the lights are already grounded through the plug and play wiring. Also no one has mentioned about any flicker/radio feedback does this happen with the new light and does it send any codes back to the vehicle to set off or is there a resister built in to combat those issues. Thank you for any and all information. @Quake LED
 
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tonyg30

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So I have a question for those of us who do not have the DRL options (myself) looking at that guys set up I like the addition of the inline fuse adapter that he has coming off the box but if your system is plug and play cant you just run that fuse straight to the DRL hailo wire and directly install (splice) into that and have the lights on while the vehicle is running / on if that fuse is one that operates that way??? I phrase it that way because why would you need the resister and the lights are already grounded through the plug and play wiring. Also no one has mentioned about any flicker/radio feedback does this happen with the new light and does it send any codes back to the vehicle to set off or is there a resister built in to combat those issues. Thank you for any and all information.
I haven't experienced any flickering or radio feedback.
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